They are the correct gauges as mentioned. The problem is the retaining ring, factory would be a one piece stainless steel that is crimped in place. The split bolt type someone swapped in will not be water tight. Fogging on the bezel lens might be an issue at minimum. I’m trying to remember but I think there is a gasket the fits between the inner and outer upper shell and seals against the lower shell. I didn’t see that in your photos.
Looks like you need to visit Vintage Connections and get some items to fix the hacked up wiring. They sell great starter kits at a reasonable price. They also have the vinyl sleeves to replace what you cut off. Also go to evilbay and get a set of connector terminal release tools
I don't recall an instrument bezel gasket for either the speedo or tacho. Despite all the weather tools we now have, I do get caught in a rain ride about twice a year. I might "paint" a thin layer of non-hardening sealant at that joint under the ring.
The de-pinning tool looks excellent. My skill and luck with de-pinning is abysmal. Re-wiring this bike will be a chore, as it seems to have been "insensitively" disassembled regarding wiring and the PO was very honest about this. My goal is a simplified wiring with a quality emphasis on the ignition circuitry.
Next I'll do a little work with the output sprocket and clutch throwout mechanism. I think the inner cable is rusted to the outer cable, as the lever has no travel and hits a hard stop.
After 40+ years of a stiff clutch I switched to a late model clutch setup. No more binding worm drive plastic POS. I also broke down and bought a needle bearing pusher for inside the clutch basket. The bike now has the pull of a 350 and no more clutch drag.
I suspect that's what was causing the 2nd gear shift dogs wearing out.
All good now.
1977 KAWASAKI KZ650 (#364) CLUTCH ACTUATOR SHAFT PUSH LEVER AXLE
It looks like I do have the updated clutch pressure plate lift mechanism with the helical ramp ball bearings. Disassembled it, cleaned the bits, and reassembled it with some nice smooth grease. Can't say I've ever serviced or seen a helical liner ball bearing assembly before.
Cleaned up the front sprocket a bit, and it's a 17T 530 for sure, and with the 41T rear is a bit higher ratio than I'd like. So maybe a 37 or 38T rear. The washer looks like it has a tab to bend over, but I cannot tell where this tab would locate. See green arrow.
And the headstock VIN sticker is as clean as it'll get. Some cable friction has damaged it.
The tab on the washer is supposed to be bent at 90° and the correct sprocket has a small hole close to the center splines that it fits into. That sprocket looks like a Honda part with the two threaded holes on each side of the splined hole.
The Rust Bros. Garage Collection
1974 Honda CB550 K0
1975 Honda CB400F Super Sport
1977 Kawasaki KZ1000 LTD
1980 Suzuki GS1100E
1981 Suzuki GS 1100E
1982 Honda CB900F Super Sport
1983 Honda CB1100F
1984 Honda Sabre 700
1984 Honda Interceptor 1000
1994 Kawasaki ZG 1000 Concours
Hi, Disassemble your starter motor, clean everything and check the carbon brushes!
Good preventive maintenance advice. Please mark the aluminum end caps and the steel body to assure correct “clocking” upon assembly. Also the armature shaft has very thin shims, take care to note placement, again to assure correct assembly.