New battery in, oil up to the window bottom line limit, a splash of gas in the tank. Turned the key and kill switch on, good and bad news...
On the upside my bike had the oil indicator lamp turn on, the high and low beam work, all turn signals work (replaced the rear indicators), the horn works.
Gas flows from the tank through the petcock (replaced O-Rings, patched up the fuel tube) as I can see inline filters filling. Carbs didn't seem to leak or spit out the overflow tubes (rebuilt gasket and O-Rings) but I didn't leave the fuel on for very long.
The downside is that I couldn't get the bike to start... I didn't try for very long as it is around 100*F out and I'm not enjoying sweating while sitting.
Haven't done much for diagnostics yet, but know that nothing happens when I hit the Start button (hoping its not the starter motor being out), and it didn't try to fire up when I gave it a dozen or so kicks. About all I double checked so far was that the cam chain was able to rotate easily still from the 17mm bolt, which it was able to easily do a few rotations.
I am running out today and picking up a multi-meter so I can run down a checklist of power supply. Will be following a list from this forum and seeing what I can find.
I also want (need!) to replace the fuse box and update that to the blade style fuses. Unfortunately the CWS
'plug and play' setup I found listed from another thread has been out of stock for the last month or so. I've also struck out looking locally at ace/oreilly/autozone/walmart/etc. so far. I've also tried to follow some other links posted in the past but they all seem to be old enough that they don't lead me to the right place.
The build is done for now, and so begins my battle to get it running
Picked up a multi meter today, and still no luck on an appropriate fuse box for updating to the blades.
With the starter not making a noise, I wasn't sure where to begin. I ended up checking the new battery, with and without the ignition on. Was good at 12.9V and 12.6V respectively. From there I checked the wires into the coils with both points closed, then only one closed, then the other. Across the board I was getting high 11V's in, and around 0.3-0.4V's on the other wire. Seemed like it should be good enough to toss a spark out. While spinning the points open and closed I slipped a card with some iso alc on them and got a little surface dirt off them. Gave up and had a consolation icee pop to cool off.
Went back out and decided I'd double check the fuel delivery and then did a few full off/ig/on with the key to make sure it was moving clean. Then did the same thing with the kill switch. They both loosened up after a few turns.
After all that the starter button wouldn't cause a peep to be made. Started running through things in my head, and decided the clutch might be the culprit. I had replaced the wire and cleaned up the internal mechanism. Turns out that I need the clutch lever to be pulled around half way for it to correctly register and work, if it is pulled all the way then the bike/clutch doesn't read as engaged. With a half lever pull of clutch the starter motor started turning over happily.
Tomorrow I'll toss the new spark plugs in and add some more gas, see if I can't get it started up, then take a look at adjusting the clutch. I'm guessing I need a combination of lengthening the cable housing and possibly turning the clutch release screw out a tiny bit.
Had a semi full day of running around looking for spark plugs that would fit. The b8es are discontinued, and the br8es replacement I had were solid terminals, apparently finding the threaded terminal br8es wasn’t as easy as I thought.
Found new plugs and got them on the bike. Added another little splash of gas and was able to coax the bike to life!!! It turns over alright by button or kick starter. I definitely need to get the carbs tuned in. The idle is rather low and makes starting or staying running without a little choke almost impossible. Still need to dial in the clutch as well.
I did notice a higher pitch ticking coming off the right hand side of the motor. I will let everything cool down and retighten the exhaust and points cover cap to eliminate those as potential causes.
Maybe my wording was funny, but I believe I did find the correct plugs in the end, but I could very well be mistaken.
I read on the NGK website the B8ES has been discontinued and was replaced by the BR8ES. The only difference I could find was the newer version is a resistance plug.
Is it bad for the bike to be running a “r” plug?
The problem I found with the set of plugs I ordered online was that the terminal head was solid, and I need the skinnier threaded terminal, found under the terminal nut, to allow my wires to fit on the top.
If it was mine I would try to find the non-resistor spark plugs and make the switch when I got them. If your spark plug caps are the resistor type and you also run resistor plugs you may run into problems. On my 1977 KZ650 I do not use resistor plugs or caps, and I've never had a spark plug issue. I'm the original owner. I could be wrong, but I think the only thing resistor caps or plugs do is prevent radio static in cars that may be nearby. That has never been a big deal to me, but I'm probably a bit on the rude side. Ed
I always ran Autolite Plugs for years in the dragbike. Someone gave me them for free. Was a 4 digit #.
Champions suck in bikes. Don't use Champion. Sucked in the Shovelhead!
Too bad no one needs a cooler #9 plug. We run them in the AA/Gasser Blown Hemi, on Methanol. I have a pile of them plugs.
Here is a cross reference list:
Construction: Standard construction