I was thinking my next step would be to rebuild the rear caliper, but seeing as the rear wheel needs to come off for that, I may just wait until I’m ready for new tires. Currently leaning towards Kenda Retroactives, but not certain. I’m open to recommendations.
After my rebuild, I started with Kendas, but after they wore out, I have switched to Avon AM26 Roadriders, which I now prefer. Revco.ca (out of Quebec) has them. The 4.00-18 rear is in stock (CDN$131.72) but the 3.25-19 is not, so I'm using 100/90/19 (CDN$117.40), which is the same size as the Kenda that it replaces. Shipping is free in Canada and they don't charge PST, only GST, so both tires delivered are CDN$261.58. Mine came within a week of ordering. revco.ca/avon-roadrider-tire.html
Fortnine.ca might have them, too, but they didn't have the front when I was looking. Fortnine is also free shipping, no PST and they give an additional $10 off when you buy a pair.
Hopefully this isn’t coming to late but before you assemble the rear MC you need to run a 5/8 ball hone in the bore to break the glaze and give the seals a way to seat. I’ve had good luck with a 320 grit.
I haven't put fluid back in yet. Pretty easy to take it back apart and do that. Thanks for the tip.
Be cautions with the hone. I was a bit too enthusiastic with a hone on a master cylinder one time and ruined it, LOL.
Good tip. Only run the hone in there a few times and on slow speed. Use fresh brake fluid on the ball hone. Your only trying to get rid of the shinny surface inside the bore. Go slow and check it often.
Piston could be dry. But the pedal should return. While you there pull the brake pedal and grease the shaft of the pedal.
Brake pedal pivots are notorious for seizing because some owners never lubed them as directed in the owner's manual. Water gets into the pivot & rust seizes the brake pedal to the pivot. All it takes is a drop or two of oil once a year & all's good.
A seized pedal can be a bear to remove. Penetrating oil on the pivot, patience and much rocking & pulling will eventually get it off. Also check that the large, wound brake pedal pivot return spring isn't broken.
slmjim & Z1BEBE
slmjim & Z1BEBE
A biker looks at your engine and chrome.
A Rider looks at your odometer and tags.
Something else came to mind. Since you're in Alberta, The Old Motorcycle Shop in Calgary is a good resource for used parts. Phil is a good guy. He tends to have a fair bit of stuff for our bikes and is reasonably priced. I bought a full stock exhaust system from him last year (6/10, but cleaned up to 8/10 with an hour or so of elbow grease) for $250 in the shop. His website is www.oldmotorcycleshop.com/ and he has an ebay store www.ebay.ca/str/oldmotorcycleshop . You can save shipping and have a look at what you're buying if you're close enough to drop in.
So yesterday, my brother who has more balls than brains rode the bike up and down the road without brakes. It ran great.
Got the rear brake bled and working great. Took apart the front MC today only to discover I need a rebuild kit for that one too. Both the primary and secondary cups are done.
My buddy leaves on a bike trip tomorrow for a week. When he gets back the forks will come off to polish the lowers and replace the fork seals and dust caps.
What should I use for fluid in the forks? Service manual calls for SAE 10W-20, but I'm leaning more towards Bel-Ray fork oil. In that case, I'm not sure what weight I should go for. Keep in mind I've been 140lbs since I was sixteen.