Where to start?

Oldjeep wrote:

Webbie1 wrote: By the way, this bike has just under 19k miles on it, so it should still be pretty good internally.

Warner

My bike had under 20K on it and the entire brake system was full of crap, needed full rebuild of all calipers, line replacement and new front MC. The carbs just required a good cleaning, re-gasketing and plugging of the cracked over flows. Unfortunately low miles isn't always a good thing, it means that it has sat unused for most of its life.

And don't forget tires. My 81 had a set of original 81 tires on it that still had decent tread. Plan on replacing whatever tires are on it unless you can verify by date code that they were made in the last decade or so.

Oh absolutely! I don't ride on hockey puck tires. Carbs will be rebuilt, and I'm assuming the brakes will need complete overhaul. Likely the throttle, clutch, and brake cables, as well.

Warner

Oldjeep wrote:

Webbie1 wrote: By the way, this bike has just under 19k miles on it, so it should still be pretty good internally.

Warner

My bike had under 20K on it and the entire brake system was full of crap, needed full rebuild of all calipers, line replacement and new front MC. The carbs just required a good cleaning, re-gasketing and plugging of the cracked over flows. Unfortunately low miles isn't always a good thing, it means that it has sat unused for most of its life.

And don't forget tires. My 81 had a set of original 81 tires on it that still had decent tread. Plan on replacing whatever tires are on it unless you can verify by date code that they were made in the last decade or so.

My 1990 CBR1000F that I bought 3 years ago only had 7k miles on it. Luckily, besides tires, fork seals, clutch (maybe PO didn't use the correct oil at some point), and a voltage regulator that failed, it was pretty good. It still looks close to new. Love the bike, but couldn't pass up this KZ1000 opportunity.

Warner

Ive found a 78 with under 18 k miles. and I could honestly say it had never been greased . I would suggest getting all the old factory grease out of the swingarm etc. and start over with a reputable modern grease as well as the above mentionables. Kawasaki mentionable parts from Partzilla are the way to go with an fsm ( full service manual) from Kawasaki. The only other trials I come across was rust pits in the chrome from sitting and not being washed.

Happy trails and keep a cool tool.
Clyde.

It's a nice looking find! Congrats!

I think you are doing the right thing by cleaning things from stem to stern first. I use carb cleaner for a lot of my cleaning because it cuts through grease. If you remove components be sure to take before and after photos and use lots of baggies for the small stuff. More than one project has wound up being sold because the owner couldn't remember how to put things back together.

As for the brakes I'd flush them to see how they work first. Carbs may not have to come apart unless it's called for. Valve adjustments need to be checked. They are often neglected and blamed on the carbs by cheap or lazy PO's. If the bike is in good shape then components can be done one at a time while you get to know it and if deemed safe you can RIDE THE PISS OUT OF IT :woohoo: between working on each system as you gather the needed parts.
Steve

Webbie1 wrote:

Oldjeep wrote:

Webbie1 wrote: By the way, this bike has just under 19k miles on it, so it should still be pretty good internally.

Warner

My bike had under 20K on it and the entire brake system was full of crap, needed full rebuild of all calipers, line replacement and new front MC. The carbs just required a good cleaning, re-gasketing and plugging of the cracked over flows. Unfortunately low miles isn't always a good thing, it means that it has sat unused for most of its life.

And don't forget tires. My 81 had a set of original 81 tires on it that still had decent tread. Plan on replacing whatever tires are on it unless you can verify by date code that they were made in the last decade or so.

My 1990 CBR1000F that I bought 3 years ago only had 7k miles on it. Luckily, besides tires, fork seals, clutch (maybe PO didn't use the correct oil at some point), and a voltage regulator that failed, it was pretty good. It still looks close to new. Love the bike, but couldn't pass up this KZ1000 opportunity.

Warner

Nice. I've got a similar setup. The kz is for messing around in town and my fz is for longer range, higher speed fun.

Yep, the CBR is pretty much a do-all bike. Comfortable enough to take on a 2k mile weeklong trip, fun enough to blast around town. Even though she's pushing 30, it's still making well over 100hp to the rear wheel, which isn't shabby. Cruising at 100, she's not even breathing hard yet. But this KZ is going to be a really fun restore....such a classic bike. And it's going to be more comfortable for a passenger, from a seating position standpoint for sure, especially with that backrest.

Warner

I have the exact same bike as you. Mine was glacier green originally.

Clean it up.
Check the brakes, you might need to replace / rebuild. New DOT fluid. Check the hoses. Bleed the lines. Want to be able to stop if you are able to run.
Check the fuel tank and hoses if needed rinse the tank and get it coated and change the fuel hoses, add filters.
New plugs.
Check battery.
Check electrical system, flashers
Take off the oil pan or at least drain the oil and put a new oil filter and new oil.
Check the tyres, air . Don't ride on unsafe tires.
Suspension. Front fork leaks
Wheel bearings, Steering bearings. Wheel alignment.
Carb, remove it and inspect it to find out what you have. Should me a VM26 pumper. What jets you have, needles. Clean everything, new gaskets

Again go through the manuals and follow the essentials.

Mine was really far gone and it runs great now.

The folks here are very knowledgable and helpful.

Good luck.

Definitely clean and do all the maintenance per the factory service manual. In doing these two things, you may uncover some other matters that need attention, and you can be confident that the bike will run as designed.
Ther are two other things that I strongly recommend.
1. Unless the date codes on the tire show that they are less than five years old, and ther are no surface cracks at all, replace them. An old tire can be hard and brittle, and can fail without notice. That can kill you.
2. Completely overhaul the brakes. All new lines, all new seals, all new pads. Twenty or thirty year old lines can be brittle and can have a great deal of rock hard crap in them. Old seals can fail suddenly. Rusty, crapped up caliper pistons can cause the pads to drag, overheating the brakes. Et cetera. Brake failure can kill you.

shrap66 wrote: I have the exact same bike as you. Mine was glacier green originally.

Clean it up.
Check the brakes, you might need to replace / rebuild. New DOT fluid. Check the hoses. Bleed the lines. Want to be able to stop if you are able to run.
Check the fuel tank and hoses if needed rinse the tank and get it coated and change the fuel hoses, add filters.
New plugs.
Check battery.
Check electrical system, flashers
Take off the oil pan or at least drain the oil and put a new oil filter and new oil.
Check the tyres, air . Don't ride on unsafe tires.
Suspension. Front fork leaks
Wheel bearings, Steering bearings. Wheel alignment.
Carb, remove it and inspect it to find out what you have. Should me a VM26 pumper. What jets you have, needles. Clean everything, new gaskets

Again go through the manuals and follow the essentials.

Mine was really far gone and it runs great now.

The folks here are very knowledgable and helpful.

Good luck.

Thanks much!

Warner