Where to start?

So I'm picking up my 79 KZ1000 LTD probably Friday and bringing it home to get started on it. It's been sitting (out of the weather) for 22 years. It's dirty, so I'm thinking the first step is to hit it with the air hose and blow it off. But I am really a list type of guy, and I'm wondering if anyone has comprised a list of how to start a restore....what to do first, etc. I don't want to be spinning my wheels and want to do the things that make sense first. Do any of you guys have a list, or a standard method for starting out with a restore?

Thanks in advance,

Warner

THAT is a nice find! You can be sure the carbs need cleaning, along with the tank. It may or may not be rusty inside, but if so, I recommend removing the rust with something non-corrosive like metal rescue. I think you could drink the stuff and it will not harm paint. (it may attack some red paints that use iron oxide for the pigment) I would however try to avoid letting the petcock and fuel gauge sender sit in the stuff, although it may do the sender some good. ? A block off plate is easy to make for the petcock.



I also do not recommend tank liners unless your tank is leaking. Some react with different fuels, and can cause problems with plugging up carbs. A CLEAN bare metal tank has no other crap to come loose and plug up your carbs, period. Really a no brainer.



You can also bet on the battery being gone. I like the gel cell sealed AGM batteries. Work great, last a long time, lots of cranking amps, no corrosive vent tube, and does not need a special charging system.

old_kaw wrote: THAT is a nice find! You can be sure the carbs need cleaning, along with the tank. It may or may not be rusty inside, but if so, I recommend removing the rust with something non-corrosive like metal rescue. I think you could drink the stuff and it will not harm paint. (it may attack some red paints that use iron oxide for the pigment) I would however try to avoid letting the petcock and fuel gauge sender sit in the stuff, although it may do the sender some good. ? A block off plate is easy to make for the petcock.

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I also do not recommend tank liners unless your tank is leaking. Some react with different fuels, and can cause problems with plugging up carbs. A CLEAN bare metal tank has no other crap to come loose and plug up your carbs, period. Really a no brainer.

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You can also bet on the battery being gone. I like the gel cell sealed AGM batteries. Work great, last a long time, lots of cranking amps, no corrosive vent tube, and does not need a special charging system.

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Yes, tank and carbs were two of the first things I thought about. I plan on using the metal rescue product, and not lining the tank. A friend of mine has an ultrasonic tank and has done a few carb rebuilds now. The previous owner told me that he was thinking of doing some carb work even when it was running, so it's probably a no-brainer that the carbs will be one of the first things to do. I'm not real sure what should be done jetting wise. I do plan on keeping the bike stock, but will likely put a Delkevic exhaust on to give it some decent sound, so maybe a little bit richer jetting is in order. I understand they were pretty lean from the factory anyway, even with all the stock intake and exhaust. I'll be reaching out to the forum for starting jetting advice soon, too.

Thanks for the response!

Warner

First thing is to get a factory service manual and go through all the various maintenance tasks like adjusting the valves. A full brake system teardown is in order, not just a flush. Replace brake lines and any rusty pistons or crusty piston seals. Doing the carbs are a given, and that includes a full teardown including unganging. You shouldn't have to replace any of the brass jets, and if you do be sure to use real deal Mikuni parts, not aftermarket junky "carb kits". This tutorial should help guide you... members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/i.../vm_carb_rebuild.pdf

I would use low-pressure water and scrub. High-pressure can force dirt and water into places it shouldn't go.

Nessism wrote: First thing is to get a factory service manual and go through all the various maintenance tasks like adjusting the valves. A full brake system teardown is in order, not just a flush. Replace brake lines and any rusty pistons or crusty piston seals. Doing the carbs are a given, and that includes a full teardown including unganging. You shouldn't have to replace any of the brass jets, and if you do be sure to use real deal Mikuni parts, not aftermarket junky "carb kits". This tutorial should help guide you... members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/i.../vm_carb_rebuild.pdf

Thank you for this response. I downloaded the manual yesterday. Is that a single good supplier of parts for these old KZ's? Or do you have to hunt around for various items? I was thinking braided steel brake lines would be something I'd do. I'll have to learn how to inspect/rebuild the calipers and whatnot as I go. I'm also wondering if the jetting shouldn't be richened up a touch from what the stock jetting is, especially if I'm going to put a full Delkevic system on. (I'll of course keep the stock exhaust).

Warner

loudhvx wrote: I would use low-pressure water and scrub. High-pressure can force dirt and water into places it shouldn't go.

Thanks. My thought was first hit it with the air hose, since there is a lot of loose debris on it that would be harder to remove if it's wet. Then hose it down. The only thing that I was planning on using the pressure washer on was the inside of the tank, to clear it out before I do the whole metal rescue thing to it.

Warner

By the way, this bike has just under 19k miles on it, so it should still be pretty good internally.

Warner

For braided lines galferusa.com/
For caliper kits www.brakecrafters.com/

Thanks!

Warner

Webbie1 wrote: By the way, this bike has just under 19k miles on it, so it should still be pretty good internally.

Warner

My bike had under 20K on it and the entire brake system was full of crap, needed full rebuild of all calipers, line replacement and new front MC. The carbs just required a good cleaning, re-gasketing and plugging of the cracked over flows. Unfortunately low miles isn't always a good thing, it means that it has sat unused for most of its life.

And don't forget tires. My 81 had a set of original 81 tires on it that still had decent tread. Plan on replacing whatever tires are on it unless you can verify by date code that they were made in the last decade or so.

Partzilla is a good OEM parts source. For most parts OEM is the way to go, although there are some selective items where aftermarket will suffice.

In terms of the brake lines I like to make my own from Earl's parts. The KZ rebuild thread linked in my signature shows how it's done.
If you keep the stock airbox you shouldn't have to do much in terms of jetting even if you change the exhaust. Maybe bump the mains one size is all, and possibly lift the needles a notch or two if your carbs afford such a change.