TOPIC:

Now I remember what you posted earlier in the thread.
Yeah. The blue, not black.

Axle spacers are complete:











The caliper bracket I have is off of some old drag bike and is actually really nice. The only down side is that the rotor is too wide of a diameter for the caliper to bolt up. We're going to have to reduce the radius of the rotor by about 1/2" for everything to line up. Shouldn't be too much of an issue and think about all the weight we'll be saving...

For everyone's information, I'm going to be mounting the caliper upside-down so I can re-use the stock (drum brake) brake stay.

My machinist also really wants to make new axle adjuster end caps for the box swingarm. I'll let him go for it.

Now I need to rebuild the caliper (waiting on the kit from Clubman Racing) and have a line made.

Productive lunch break:

Caliper rebuilt, new brake stay made, and caliper mounted. I have a line coming from Z1E by the end of the week. I'll bleed the caliper right side up.




My machinist convinced me to throw out the old kickstand stay (that keeps it from hitting the rearsets) and go with a better solution.

Old:



New:

Mounting tab spot welded on:



Rubber bumper with bolt:



Mounted:



And it works:



I said I'd never modify this frame... but I think I can make an exception in this case.

Just a Little hint Move0ver

The clip for the crown nut has to be in this position for max. sping tension.



I use clips with an extra loop form more Tension

Good catch Scirocco, though I'd imagine having the clip either way would fulfill the intended purpose...

I got the caliper bled today... the upgrade is complete. There was a delay because the Grimeca caliper banjo bolt has to be 10x1.00 and the nissin MC banjo bolt is 10x1.25... so I had to make a second banjo bolt order.



The hose is secured to the brake stay (with zip ties until I can find a more elegant solution) and has enough length to follow the span of suspension travel.

I also have a belly pan made by Matt at Tannermatic (he makes a sweet fiberglass Z1 fender delete FYI).







I'll paint it the same Audi moro blue as the tank/tail

And we're done. Ready for spring. I just need to get some more stickers for the belly pan and take some better photos outdoors.

OK, here's pictures from the first ride this morning. Bike felt really good, I'm excited to get it on the dyno after making the final adjustments to the needles and installing the kerker race baffles.

I missed the golden hour when I took the pictures this morning... I'll have to get better ones later.

BIke looks great man. Nice combo of parts

DoctoRot wrote: BIke looks great man. Nice combo of parts

Glad you like it. I think I've picked all the "low hanging fruit" of upgrades... my next ones will be drilled rotors and a 520 chain.

Other than that I need to find a spare frame to brace up (so I can keep mine original) and a spare head that I can port/polish/cam. Those two endeavors will be considerably more expensive though.

drilled rotors will really complete the look. Are those 7mm disks?

DoctoRot wrote: drilled rotors will really complete the look. Are those 7mm disks?

Yea those are stock discs. I just find it crazy how expensive discs are for the Z1 as compared to other bikes of the era. Even pairs of used drilled rotors go for like $500 on ebay... for $50 more I can get a brand new set of PMC drilled rotors from japan.

True Disk can grind and drill your rotors for $50 a piece. I don't think they will grind them thinner than the min thickness stamped on the rotor though.

if you can get a set of 4.5mm thick rotors you will cut the rotational mass there nearly in half. which will equate to better braking.

If you are in for a project you could get a set of 4.5mm disks, drill out the rivets and swap carriers so you end up with the 4.5mm disks on your 6 lug carriers. Just use button head screws and nyloc nuts to attach the disk to the carrier. I had a set of rotors thinned for a KZ650 at Godferry's Garage and that is how they came back. Worked great.