02 KZP cafe build completed- 2 minor issues need h

I bought this thing about a year and a half ago.... obviously family & work come first.... but it's consumed my occasional spare time here and there.... and I'm pretty happy with the results. Mechanically it was perfect.... and still is, but it's a bit of a franken-bike.

It was a low-budget build. It's a rattle-can paint job, and most of the parts were sourced off ebay, or salvaged from older KZs. I have approximately $2100 in the bike.... including the cost of the bike itself.... so don't beat me up too bad ok?

Questions:

1) the cafe bars barely hit the tank.... but they hit. Is there a solution?

2) All the lights, signals, brights, horn, tail, etc.... all works.... except the BRAKE light (it worked when I took it apart). Taillight works....Apply either brake... and nothing happens.

The original brake/tail only had 3 wires.... they are attached properly.... but still no brake light. Suggestions?

Can you rotate the bars fore or aft a bit to gain some clearance? Or add a little material to the steering stop on the neck/ trees to limit movement.

Check the bulb. Easiest thing to do (1157?). Beyond that, use your volt meter to trace the circuit. If the tail light works, the ground should be ok. Is there power at the switch(es)? Does the key need to be on?

Unfortunately the bars are as far "out" as they can go. To you have a link that talks/shows the steering stop?

First, for only $2100 all in, I think that's an awesome bike man! Kudos on such a cool looking ride!

Based upon a wiring diagram for z1000 only, I see that the horn and the brake light share the same power source - a 10amp fuse with black/white wire on input side and brown wire on output side, so this means your brake light circuit should have 12vdc readable at the inputs to both brake switches. Confirm this with your multimeter. Then operate the brake (whatever one is easier to access) and check the output side of that switch - the blue wire - and see if you get 12vdc there.
For both switches the input wire is the brown wire and the output wire is the blue one.

Again, if your horn is working then the fuse link that supplies power to horn and brake circuit is good, so after confirming the input and output vdc at either or both switches, the only thing left is two wire connectors toward the tail light. The diagram shows a molex connector and also a single barrel-type connector the blue wire passes through on it's way to the tail light. I'd check the input and output sides of these connectors and you're likely to find the culprit.

As for your bars. I'm guessing it's the actual controls that kiss the tank and not the actual bar? Just looking at your pictures it would seem the bulky controls stick-out further and would contact the tank before the bar. It also appears that you could rotate the bar slightly more forward without interfering with the fairing but that's only based on a single picture.
The handle bar appears to be a stock one that has been flipped over?

The steering stop are just metal pieces welded to the frame close to the lower clamps of the triple tree. As you rotate the steering to "full lock" in either direction, small protrusions cast into the lower clamp will bump-up against a metal leg sticking out of the center below where your VIN plate/sticker is. This could be built-up with weld or simple fabrication to limit the turning radius a few degrees and stop your bars from kissing the tank.

I agree with retterath a couple of blobs of weld either side of the steering stop may be just enough. Or you could fit risers for your bars. Or different bars.
For the taillight. If you check the schematic you might find a diode buried in the loom that connects to your rear light. Could be the problem lays thererin. Worth a look.

ninefourteener wrote: Unfortunately the bars are as far "out" as they can go. To you have a link that talks/shows the steering stop?

Handsome bike!

Could try a FORUM SEARCH using various different key words for articles on decreasing range of handlebar by modifying the steering stop.





Good Fortune!

Thanks wrenchmonkey

No.... the bars are aftermarket clubman/cafe bars.... but yes, you are correct- the bulky controls are what is hitting the tank.

I left the controls original intentionally. When people look at it, I wanted them to see the switches for the siren, pursuit mode, etc.... and think "wow.... this really was a police bike".

Cheesy... I know. It was important to me to keep them, even if all the police "stuff" was removed years ago.

Researching the modification to the steering stop as we speak. Thanks!

I figured it out! It was so stupid.

The bike was fine..... I couldnt figure out why my tail wire and my brake wire were both energized 100% of the time.

Something is constantly activating the brake, right?

Kinda.

After completely disassembling the rear brake switch.... and completely disconnecting the front brake.....

Wait a sec...... 2 wires to the front brake?

I wonder what would hapoen if I flipped them around?

Bingo.

The front brake was wired backwards.... essentually telling the brake light to be "on" constantly. Ugggggg

Thanks for all your help folks!

Glad you found the issue. Cool bike.

My controls are hitting my tank as well after converting to drag bars. Just about any aftermarket set is less bulky than the factory ones so I ordered some and am waiting for some time to get them wired and installed. The right one had an extra switch for lights so I'm going to mount and wire some driving lights through it.

Whatever problems it may have I really dig it.
Cool build!