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05 Jan 2013 18:14 #566002 by Kitten Tooth
This thread might be a dud.. was created by Kitten Tooth
Im REALLY thinking about pulling my 1981 KZ1000LTD apart, going through the motor and crankcase, and getting some powder coating done to the frame and swingarm. I dont want to believe it but im thinking my motor is going to need some top end work done to it. Honing, rings, and valve job. So heres a list of stuff i think i might need for the teardown/reassembly for the motor.

1- Money :woohoo:
2- complete gasket kit from Z1E
3- Plastic ziplock bags
4- zip ties
5- lots of carb cleaner (for grime and deposites)
6- other parts as i go along and find out what needs replaced (obviously)

Anything im missing? Any good ideas on where i should get gaskets and stuff (never used them from Z1E before). Im not thinking im going to go Cafe, Bobber, street fighter or anything like that... but i might get crazy and decide differently later on. Im happy with how my bike looks now but i know i was skimpy on alot of stuff when i got it running in the first place. Im also scared because time flys when your having fun so winter might be over before i know it and i wont have a badass bike to ride :laugh:

Post your thoughts and whatnot below.

Thanks guys,
KT

1981 Kawasaki KZ1000-K LTD
1983 Suzuki GS300L-D
1982 Suzuki GS300L-Z sold:(
1976 KZ400D3
1973 Z900... I WISH

DO A BARREL ROLL!!

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05 Jan 2013 19:14 #566009 by trianglelaguna
Replied by trianglelaguna on topic This thread might be a dud..
type writer to type out the ad for a parts bike/ in boxes two years from now?

camera and blue tape/sharpie to document where goes where for later

1976 KZ900
2003 ZX12R
2007 FZ1000
2004 ninja 250R for wife

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05 Jan 2013 19:42 #566011 by KZJOE900
Replied by KZJOE900 on topic This thread might be a dud..

trianglelaguna wrote: type writer to type out the ad for a parts bike/ in boxes two years from now?

camera and blue tape/sharpie to document where goes where for later


+1 what Tri said. You have to be determined, patient and and lots of money.

1. You will get sick and tired of cleaning off old gaskets.
2. You have to have the proper tools or the cost of the tools alone add considerably to the budget.
3. Take photos or video what what you take apart.
4. Be vigilant on bagging and tagging everything and where you put the bags. I always find the most time consuming part of doing anything like this is trying to remember the safe place I put those small parts.
5. Same thing with tools. Every time I finally get a free morning or afternoon to work on the bike, I use a quarter of the allotted time looking for the tool or part.
6. Make sure you have the FSM. I have an FSM and a Clymer. I found they sometimes complement each other.
7. Don't trust the torque recommendations. That is where two manuals come in handy. And always use the torque specs at the end of the engine section, not within the text of the chapter. If a recommended torque seems a bit high for the size bolt, don't do it until checking with someone here.

At lastly, figure you wont' be riding this summer. But if you are diligent, you will be riding the following season. I only say that since it sounds like you will be learning as you go along and money may become an issue as you find things. Top end rollers may cost you a $200 - $300. If you find any of your cylinders are past their service limit, figure a first over bore will cost about $500 ($125 - $200 for the boring, and $280 for new pistons and rings). When all is said and done, there is no better feeling then knowing you did it yourself and knowing exactly the condition that motor.

Current project 76 KZ900 (This was a Vetter model)
76 KZ900
81 XJ550H SECA (Current Project)
82 XJ550R SECA
Past:
86 FJ1200
74 Z1900
72 CB450

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05 Jan 2013 20:44 #566018 by Kitten Tooth
Replied by Kitten Tooth on topic This thread might be a dud..

trianglelaguna wrote: type writer to type out the ad for a parts bike/ in boxes two years from now?

camera and blue tape/sharpie to document where goes where for later


See thats another thing im worried about. i did a motor rebuild on a Suzuki once and it ended crappily (because i failed to use some sort of assembly lubricant) and it scored where the cams ride in the head. The motor will probably run fine even with the scoring.. but i lost alot of interest after that. I am determined and i would love to have this motor layed out on a work bench knowing its clean and ready to go back together. I have never split the engine cases before on any motor except for a Briggs and Stratton :D The reason i am thinking this way is the valves need adjusted and i have the valve cover off... but then you start looking at bolts and how things come apart.. I know i could have the motor out of the bike and the head tore off in maybe 2 and a half hours. But then im wondering if ill run into a spot where im stumped thinking "What in the hell should i do now?". Dont want to get in over my head. Not doing so great as far as money goes either. I probably have about 60 bucks in my wallet and thats it.

1981 Kawasaki KZ1000-K LTD
1983 Suzuki GS300L-D
1982 Suzuki GS300L-Z sold:(
1976 KZ400D3
1973 Z900... I WISH

DO A BARREL ROLL!!

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05 Jan 2013 21:05 #566020 by trianglelaguna
Replied by trianglelaguna on topic This thread might be a dud..
you have your own answer in your words....put the cover back on and ride it...change the oil once in a while....when it is time to rebuild it will be obvious both wear wise and time money/wise/......if it runs....dont fix it.....

lot of posts on here where he now has no bike to ride ,on this site, from fixing running bikes....

1976 KZ900
2003 ZX12R
2007 FZ1000
2004 ninja 250R for wife
The following user(s) said Thank You: Tomolu5

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05 Jan 2013 23:23 #566035 by Kitten Tooth
Replied by Kitten Tooth on topic This thread might be a dud..
I suppose i should just ride it until i needs work. Maybe ill tear into it this summer when i got my job. Gonna start working for U-haul in February which should bring in an ample supply of cash. Im real good with upkeep on all my vehicles too. I ride the bike hard but well within spec B). worst i ever do is chirp the tire from a stop sign or let the RPMs go up a bit before i shift gears. I understand the top end and im sure all my cylinders would need is honing. I hardly get any Leakage when i do the leakdown test and my average compression is 130 (lowest being 125). I do get a plug fowled with oil every once in a while. Its on cylinder 3 and i believe its due to a bad stem seal.. only happens when the bike is parked after a long ride.

1981 Kawasaki KZ1000-K LTD
1983 Suzuki GS300L-D
1982 Suzuki GS300L-Z sold:(
1976 KZ400D3
1973 Z900... I WISH

DO A BARREL ROLL!!

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06 Jan 2013 03:09 #566053 by Kitten Tooth
Replied by Kitten Tooth on topic This thread might be a dud..
Are both upper and lower headgaskets 2 piece gaskets? I would think the upper headgasket would be 1 piece but i dont know. Also trying to build up a good list with prices next to the parts. Wheres a good place to buy a complete gasket kit? i cant seem to find one on Z1E.

1981 Kawasaki KZ1000-K LTD
1983 Suzuki GS300L-D
1982 Suzuki GS300L-Z sold:(
1976 KZ400D3
1973 Z900... I WISH

DO A BARREL ROLL!!

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06 Jan 2013 19:13 #566131 by lushbaugh
Replied by lushbaugh on topic This thread might be a dud..
you can do it but count on it nickle and diming you to death, buy a good torque wrench and keep everything very clean , plan to destroy some bolts especially the ones that look like phillips under the countershaft sprocket, and you can find kits just call cometec and talk to them.

79 kz1000 ltd all apart
the best advice i can give is dont take dnthavakawmans advice..

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  • Street Fighter LTD
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06 Jan 2013 19:51 #566139 by Street Fighter LTD
Replied by Street Fighter LTD on topic This thread might be a dud..
All as stated by others PLUS

Get a good job, Not being rude , but have $1,000.00 minimun set aside for everything you need , plus tools , plus out sourced machine work, PLUS What ever else you may need once torn down.

Find a KZ friend close to you who can mentor you on your first full motor rebuild. This step can be bypassed , but it will help you thru the tough spots and may keep your interest high.

Good Luck
Dave B) B) B)


Original owner 78 1000 LTD
Mr Turbo Race Kit, MTC 1075 Turbo pistons by PitStop Performance , Falicon Ultra Lite Super Crank, APE everything. Les Holt @ PDM's Billet Goodies . Frame by Chuck Kurzawa @ Logghe Chassis . Deep sump 5qt oil pan. RIP Bill Hahn

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06 Jan 2013 20:11 #566141 by 650ed
Replied by 650ed on topic This thread might be a dud..
Here are some questions you may want to ask yourself:

Is the engine running ok as is or are there obvious problems that will cause serious damage if neglected?
(An engine that uses a little oil is not a big problem; an engine that has bad knocking or excessive smoke is.)

What am I trying to fix by taking the engine apart?.
(If there is a problem, have you positively identified it? Ripping an engine apart to troubleshoot a problem instead of first identifying the problem can be a very big mistake if you find out the problem was something simple like a clogged fuel filter, leaky carb holders, pitted points, etc. Very often a full tune-up will correct what might appear to be a larger problem.)

Will I have sufficient resources ($$$) to have a professional perform the work I cannot do?
(Some things require very expensive special equipment, expensive parts, and lots of experience, so trying to do them yourself is not a good option. If your bike is useable as is and you tear the engine down without lots of $$$ at hand for doing the work you may end up without a ride for a very long time. Even re-assembling an engine with zero repairs costs a fair amount of cash for gaskets and such, so poking around in there out of curiosity is not free.)

Am I better off waiting and saving up cash until I have enough to have the whole engine rebuilt properly before opening this can of worms, or is there a problem that simply must be repaired immediately?
(Waiting until you have funds to have everything done in one shot may be a better alternative than taking the engine apart; doing a little work on it; putting it together; then taking it apart to do a little more work; etc. Taking the engine apart multiple times will cost more $$$ and may give poor results.)

Anyway, good luck with whatever you decide to do. Ed

1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
The following user(s) said Thank You: Street Fighter LTD

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06 Jan 2013 22:13 #566153 by zukdave
Replied by zukdave on topic This thread might be a dud..
+1 Ed.

The first thing is be honest with your self.
Not to bust your balls but this a little more then
a Briggs motor.
Do you have the RIGHT tools to do it right ?
Do you have a CLEAN place you can leave the motor open for
months while coming up with MORE money.

To be honest I think you'd be better off saving up
the cash and then send the motor out.

1980 KZ650 F1
ZX750A1 motor.
Wiseco 810cc kit.
Zukiworks racing ported head.
VM 29 smooth bore's.
Dyna 2000 Ign. w/Dyna mini coil's
APE cylinder stud's and nut's.
APE valve spring's.
APE Track King clutch.
V/H KZ1000 sidewinder.
3.5x18 laced to a KZ1000 disk hub.
150/60/18 Shinko 006 Podium.
63" wheel base.

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07 Jan 2013 01:26 #566186 by Kraz1
Replied by Kraz1 on topic This thread might be a dud..

Kitten Tooth wrote: Also trying to build up a good list with prices next to the parts. Wheres a good place to buy a complete gasket kit?


CLICK
> KZ zone

KZ1000J'81-'83 #08620 $84.67

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