Brat-ish build: '81 KZ-440B

Patton wrote:
Brake rub usually isn't related to wheel wobble, and doesn't cause the wheel to be thrown off balance.
The rub is due to something amiss in the drum-shoe department.

Any reason to suspect collision damage to the bike's rear end?

Good Fortune!

no reason to suspect damage. the bike has only 4700 miles on it, so hopefully not. I guess the wobble must be coming from the rear wheel's balance. The tires that are on it have only 20 miles on them (from the PO), but i'll eventually upgrade from 90/90 and 100/90 to 100/90 and 110/90, so it'll get balanced then anyway.

when i get to the rear of the bike to do the chain and sprockets, i'll also do the rear brakes and see what's up with the rubbing.

thanks for the help guys. i'll keep ya posted!

today i just got some more little goodies in the mail (just tools), and I am still waiting for my carb and petcock rebuild kits from z1enterprises and powersports plus. I ordered them on the 27th and they just shipped yesterday :dry:

keep your eyes pealed for more of my excellent questions! they will include such classics like "how many teeth should i drop for better acceleration?" and "do i already have a 530 chain or do i need to upgrade to one?"........should be exciting.

jbeebe1 wrote: ...no reason to suspect damage...guess the wobble must be coming from the rear wheel's balance....

Wondering how the brake rod got disfigured.

What's air pressure in rear tire?

Good Fortune!

Patton wrote:

jbeebe1 wrote: ...no reason to suspect damage...guess the wobble must be coming from the rear wheel's balance....

Wondering how the brake rod got disfigured.

What's air pressure in rear tire?

Good Fortune!

good point about the beaten brake rod. i'll check the pressure tomorrow and post it.

in other news, i received my petcock rebuild kit today:

www.z1enterprises.com/ItemDetails.aspx?i...uum)+&item=KL18-2698

It seems like good quality and went in fine. I didn't realize that the hard plastic piece of the diaphragm has to be switched over between the thin rubber, so that took a few minutes to push one side of the thin rubber through the hole in the diaphragm without tearing it.

old pieces are shown....

got the rebuild kits today and was putting them in but then i broke that plastic plug for the pilot jet while putting it back in :woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo:

haha they're discontinued online so i'm going to call the kawi dealer tomorrow to see if they have any.

are these plugs completely necessary?

jbeebe1 wrote: got the rebuild kits today and was putting them in but then i broke that plastic plug for the pilot jet while putting it back in :woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo:

haha they're discontinued online so i'm going to call the kawi dealer tomorrow to see if they have any.

are these plugs completely necessary?

Yes, they are "completely necessary."

Z1E offers a suitable plug. It's inexpensive, and am thinking it's a Yamaha or Suzuki carb part that fits the Kaw carb. Would contact Z1E.

Good Fortune!

Patton wrote:

jbeebe1 wrote: got the rebuild kits today and was putting them in but then i broke that plastic plug for the pilot jet while putting it back in :woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo:

haha they're discontinued online so i'm going to call the kawi dealer tomorrow to see if they have any.

are these plugs completely necessary?

Yes, they are "completely necessary."

Z1E offers a suitable plug. It's inexpensive, and am thinking it's a Yamaha or Suzuki carb part that fits the Kaw carb. Would contact Z1E.

Good Fortune!

Patton, you're the man! I'll give Z1E a call now.

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationOk so the guy at Z1E said I might be able to use "carb passage plugs" off other bikes. it's about 10 bucks for 4, but Z1 has 7 dollar shipping, so there is no way i'm going wait 3 days for it to ship and pay 7 bucks to ship 10 dollars of little rubber plugs.

I bought some off a yamaha on the ebays.



I'll update when they come in and let you know how they work. I may need to shave them down a bit to squeeze them in.

The bike only has 4700 miles on it but has been sitting, should i replace the fork oil?

Also, i need to replace one of my fork dust boots. I plan on putting on gaiters anyway, can i just run gaiters with no dust boot? It seems like they ziptie into the groove where the dust seal sits anyway.

jbeebe1 wrote: The bike only has 4700 miles on it but has been sitting, should i replace the fork oil?

Also, i need to replace one of my fork dust boots. I plan on putting on gaiters anyway, can i just run gaiters with no dust boot? It seems like they ziptie into the groove where the dust seal sits anyway.

At least top it off with some trans fluid to get by with for now.
For the age of the bike the rubber seals may have dried up and will leak anyway.
Gaiters are the old style of dust boots.
The correct one will have a ridge inside like a carb boot.

any instructions on how to just top off the fork oil? I tried looking in the fsm but couldn't find anything. sorry for the continuous noob questions haha

jbeebe1 wrote: any instructions on how to just top off the fork oil? I tried looking in the fsm but couldn't find anything. sorry for the continuous noob questions haha

Look some more, it's in there. Ed

got it, in maintenance. i'm only hesitant to change the seals because i don't have a vice or anything to hold the fork while i loosen the bottom allen head. can i loosen it with the fork still on and the fluid drained?

any other opinions on only running a fork gaiter and no dust boot?