Prep a kz650 for a 4,000 mile trip?

Hello fellow KZ enthusiasts,

So it looks like I might actually get 2 weeks to do a ~4,000mi trip this summer and my only bike is the old 1978 KZ650-B2(a?). This trip will be from Washington to Iowa and hopefully include a few fun stops and detours along the way. I plan to leave in June sometime.

Background: I've done most of my riding on dirt, and used to do quite a bit of motocross riding and single-track. I bought my first road bike, the KZ650 almost 2 years ago and it only had 10,xxx miles on it. Later when thumbing through the old owners manual I found the last entry was for an oil change in 1998, and if I remember correctly, it was at 10,xxx miles. Basically the bike sat for a decade only logging a few hundred miles over that time. It ran when I got it and is in pretty good shape. I had some carb troubles and was only running on 3 cylinders for awhile but have since gotten that problem solved (clogged choke circuit). I have put on about 600 miles since I got it, doing one 300 mile over night trip. Most of my rides are short joy rides or troubleshooting rides due to mechanical issues (mostly the carbs) On that one long(ish) trip, about 100 miles from home, I felt the bike drop to 2 cylinders. I would roll on the throttle and would get very little response... just a "whaaaa...." type of feeling instead of the "wheEE!" of the engine revving. I'd pull in the clutch and rev it but when I let the clutch engage again it would be bogged down. After ten minutes at 35mph thinking "oh Poo... what am I supposed to do!?" it came back to life.

For fear of breaking down in the middle of nowhere, 1,000 miles from home, I'd like to see what ya'll would do to prepare your bike for such a trip. I'm not worried about comforts or camping equipment or anything like that, but what can I do to best prepare my bike to handle 4,000 miles without any mechanical issues. I'm not sure what caused the drop cylinders but I suspect a faulty coil, or wiring.

Have already done:
-New Tires ~ 300 miles ago - - - - - I'm thinking these will last me the whole trip but will likely need replaced soon after.
-Valve clearance check and adjust - - - - - I was worried about this before I did it, but only one valve was barely out of spec. Now are all within spec and set to the looser end of spec.
-Carbs - - - - - I've gone through the carbs and cleaned them thoroughly. I will do the same this spring before the trip if anything seems amiss.

Planning to do:
*Repair Exhaust - - - - - My exhaust (stock) has a rusted out spot where the header meets the muffler on the right side. I'm getting some backfiring and can basically hear a difference in exhaust from one side to the other so I plan to patch it with a piece of stainless steel sheeting and some hi-temp JB Weld or similar (being sure to mar up the surface of each before patching). I know this is not a permanent solution but I cant afford new exhaust just yet.
*Lube/Filter - - - - - I will change the oil and filter a few days before departure, don't plan on changing it again until I get home
*Survey Electronics - - - - - I'm planning on going through the wiring harness and checking/cleaning all connections and replacing/repairing any questionable pieces.
*Install Dyna S/Coils/New Plug Wires - - - - - I'm going to install a dyna S and matching coils/wires. I plan to bring the old points plate and coils as a backup just in case something goes wrong.
*New Plugs - - - - - New spark plugs
*Sync Carbs - - - - - I've got a carb tuner and I plan to use it
*Adjust Mixture - - - - - I need to dial in my fuel mixture. I might be running a bit lean, or so I think due to a lot of *snap*crackle*and*popping on deceleration - I'll address this after I fix the exhaust and sync the carbs. I have not carefully checked plugs recently
*Service Chain - - - - - Double check that my chain is well within spec
*install Loobman - - - - - I might get one of these "loobman" auto-chain-luber jobs... we'll see
*Check Swingarm - - - - - I need to grease the swingarm and check the bushings/bearings (possibly replace)
*New Clutch Cable - - - - - Need a new clutch cable. I can feel it binding at times causing me to lurch forward and look like a total N00b. I'm hoping that the cable is the problem
*Bleed Brake - - - - - The front disc brake works fine but the fluid is black and I know it needs at least some fresh fluid. I may rebuild the MC and caliper depending on how it works after the bleed.
*New Bulbs - - - - - I'm going to replace all brake/running/idiot lights and pack spare bulbs
*Headlight - - - - - I want to install a new headlight so that I will actually be able to ride in the dark if I need to
*New Fuse Box - - - - - Plan to replace the old fuse box with the blade type

On top of this I plan to bring spare cables, plugs, fuses, and bulbs on the trip. I might put in a fresh battery as well.

Conclusion:

So I'm not sure if this is overkill or under-kill. These are all things that I think I need to do anyway if I want to have full confidence in my bike, so this trip is a great excuse to get them done. Id love any and all feedback you guys can provide and anything I may be overlooking. I'm not a mechanic by any means but I can usually fumble my way through a task. I have to say that taking off the swingarm sounds the scariest to me now (since I already dealt with the valves) .

Finally, If its alright with you folks, I'd like to keep this thread going as I continue to prepare and come up with questions. I know that 4,000 miles may not be that big of a deal to a lot of folks, but it will be my first long bike trip and I want to have full confidence in my old KZ.

I apologize for the long winded post! I also posted this in kz650.info.

I appreciate any tips or advice.

I have been using a very good electrical contact cleaner/preservative called "De-Oxit" for a number of years on my bike,car electrical connectors, & home electonics.

Their website is www.deoxit.com and it can be purchased at Radio Shack stores and some Fry's stores too.


Cleaning Motorcycle Electrics

Get some of the De-Oxit electrical contact cleaner and figure on spending a good day going from the front of the bike to the back. It’s a plastic safe cleaner/preservative. Or use any plastic safe electrical contact cleaner(NOT WD-40 !).

On the older Kawasaki's, a majority of electrical connectors are inside the headlight housing requiring removal of the headlight, then the fun begins.

Do one set of electrical connectors at a time to avoid mixing up what connects to where. Usually disconnecting, spraying with De-Oxit and reconnecting is about all you'll need.

However, when encountering the green crud of corrosion, a brass wire brush may be needed on the pins you can reach. Some 400-600 grit wet and dry sandpaper strips rolled into a tube should reach the male and female pins in the more difficult to clean connectors.

Smoker’s pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and wooden toothpicks work as cleaning aids.

Really small electrical connectors may require the use of a welders tip cleaning tool assortment.

Most pins in the connectors are coated with a thin plating of tin, and others may be nothing more than copper or brass.

If moisture is added, the resulting corrosion lowers the voltage/current being carried causing dim lights, slow engine cranking, slow turn signal responce and lower input voltage to the ignition coils resulting in weak spark.

The left and right handlebar switch pods will need attention too as they have circuit functions like turn, horn, run/stop, and start.

Usually a spritz or two with actuation of the switch is about all needed for these switches unless corrosion is detected and then careful disassembly is required.

The ignition switch may or may be not sealed to allow spraying the internal contacts. I urge caution if attempting to open this up as springs, and ball bearings may fly out never to be seen again!

If your bike has the older style glass tubed fuses, I suggest replacing them as vibration can cause internal failure. AGX is the type used, and most auto parts stores can get them for you.

Clean the fuse holder clips, looking for signs of overheating(discolored insulation, signs of melting). I use metal polish on a cotton swab, followed by spraying another clean swab with the De-Oxit and then rubbing the inside of the fuse clip.

All battery cables must be clean and tight for maximum current transfer. Check the cables going from the Negative(-) battery terminal/post to the engine mounting bolt

Also the one going from the Positive(+) terminal to the starter solenoid and from there to the starter motor.

If any battery cable feels ”Crunchy” when flexed, replace it as possible corrosion is inside the insulation.

Each "Bullet Connector" will have to be sprayed to ensure good connectivity, especially the ones going to the energizing coil of the starter solenoid.

The alternator output “Bullet Connectors” are usually behind the engine sprocket cover and will need inspecting and cleaning too.

The turn signal light sockets will benefit from a spritz from the contact cleaner along with the tail light/brake light socket.

Some brake light switches can be sprayed on the actuating rod, with the spray running down inside to the electrical contacts, others may be sealed requiring replacement if the switch is intermittent in operation.

Some people put the Di-Electric Grease on cleaned terminations/connectors, I don’t, as I’ve read/heard it can cause problems when it gets hot, actually insulating the connections, so the choice is yours to use or not.

I think I've covered about all of the electrical systems on the bike.........

SPEAKING from experiance
if your gonna ride a 650 4000 miles
upgrade the seat
steering damper
some type of fairing
the stock seat will kill you over that distance
nice little quarter fairing would look nice and youll wish you had if you dont
at the end youll need a bigger bike

.

MFOLKS: Thanks for the electrical tips! I've read through some of your posts before and have them bookmarked to help with that process!

Jeffasaki and KZ250ltd - I've got a large clamp-on windshield that I can use, though its old, scratched, and ugly. Its the type that goes out to cover the handgrips and drops down by the fork as well. I'll probably get a new smaller clamp-on that doesn't look so obscene. I'll look into a seat or at least a cushion. What is this steering damper business? I haven't read of anyone needing one on a KZ.

I'm not worried about comfort, just reliability. I'll figure the comfort stuff out (or suffer). And... no to a bigger bike. :huh:

I took a few trips on the KZ650 back in 1979-81 and would recommend against long trips on a KZ650. I don't know what it was to put a pinpoint on, but the bike is just not all that great on the interstate and interstate takes a toll on the engine. I know the 650 is a good engine, but not a great engine for long highway rides, for that get a KZ1000 or a different newer motorcycle. Just my experience, after riding the KZ650 when it was new on trips it was pretty much a bad experience every time out where the KZ1000 was fantastic.

I would get a cruise control or at least one of those thinggies that you rest the heel of you hand on so you hand wont get tired.

donthekawguy wrote: I would get a cruise control or at least one of those thinggies that you rest the heel of you hand on so you hand wont get tired.

Yes! I have seen those things before, I'll get one. Even after 100 miles without a decent break my hand gets tired!

RonaldoKZ650 wrote: I took a few trips on the KZ650 back in 1979-81 and would recommend against long trips on a KZ650. I don't know what it was to put a pinpoint on, but the bike is just not all that great on the interstate and interstate takes a toll on the engine. I know the 650 is a good engine, but not a great engine for long highway rides, for that get a KZ1000 or a different newer motorcycle. Just my experience, after riding the KZ650 when it was new on trips it was pretty much a bad experience every time out where the KZ1000 was fantastic.

I should say that I will probably be doing under 200-300 miles of interstate on this trip. I'd imagine on the roads that I have mapped out I'll be doing 55-65mph a lot more than 70-80mph. This is my only bike, I cant afford another one... Hopefully avoiding the hours upon hours of keeping it at or over 70mph that interstates involve will ease the stress on the engine a bit.

People have crossed continents on mopeds - your 650 should be well up to the task. Enjoy the experience

.

It looks like you have covered all the bases here. Don't let people tell you the bike is to small. I rode my 78 KZ650C from California to the east coast numerous times over the last 30 years and had a blast with it. It performed great on the freeway, cruised all day at 80 and got 40 MPG to boot. If your going to use the stock seat just take a lot of breaks.
Back in the day you could buy Vetter fairings and saddle bags for the 650, people toured with these.
Have fun.

donthekawguy wrote: I would get a cruise control or at least one of those thinggies that you rest the heel of you hand on so you hand wont get tired.

x2

I took a 17k mile road trip on my KZ1000 a couple of years ago and i would not have made it without a throttle lock. I would highly recommend a small fairing, i did it without one and its doable but probably alot better with, specifically for bugs. Probably smart to get AAA with "plus RV". I brought new clutch and throttle cables with me and never had to replace once. I have the crash bars from my kz1000 that i took off for the rebuild and am not planning on using. they have some bars with highway pegs welded on. they worked great for me, as i am pretty tall. (6'6") I am also in Washington, north of Seattle. I don't know if they will fit your bike but you can have them if you like.

It will be an awesome trip, plus you will get alot of other bikers complimenting you on your bike and telling you you're crazy for riding it. Good Luck!