1980 LTD 1000

get some pics of the fishing too please...good you got it to rub...ride it,,it helps to have em running imo...gives you some reference to go the next move....

its looking good

Well I got me a stator cover at Houston Cycle salvage in Pasadena. A coworker got it for me and said happy birthday. I didnt go fishing its to windy. I'm having problems getting the rear tire to seat the bead. Jacked with that thing for over a hour. I'm going to give it one more try before I take the dang thing back off and see what the dang problem is or do the starting fluid thing but that just dont sit well with me. So if any one has any ideas let me know

I got an idea, and I'm serious, just give it a try. Go find the windex and spray it in-between the rim and bead of the tire. I works as a lubricant, and helps the tire slide over the bead.

Now for my question. You said you were powdercoating yourself using a toaster oven for heat, right? Where did you get your PC kit? Any tips for a newb? That master cylinder looks good to me. I'd like to give it a shot.

BTW you're making good progress. Keep up the good work.

texasfisherdude wrote:

after hours of work and I said good enough

wow, looks great. what did you use on the rim and on the fork? thanks

btw, this thread rocks!:woohoo:

I got the powder coat kit at harbour freight. I think I paid 70 bucks for it. I've been using a windex type of spray but no luck as of yet.

testarossa wrote:

I got an idea, and I'm serious, just give it a try. Go find the windex and spray it in-between the rim and bead of the tire. I works as a lubricant, and helps the tire slide over the bead.

Now for my question. You said you were powdercoating yourself using a toaster oven for heat, right? Where did you get your PC kit? Any tips for a newb? That master cylinder looks good to me. I'd like to give it a shot.

BTW you're making good progress. Keep up the good work.

I started out sanding with 400 grit then 600 grit then 1000 and mothers and a buffing pad on a die grinder. On the rims I used rim paint and clear from a rattle can bought at the parts store.I told my wife its going to be a 5' job. Its going to look real good at 5' but when you get close you can see the flaws. Its hard to get 30 year neglected stuff to clean up perfect.

kz1k wrote:

texasfisherdude wrote:

after hours of work and I said good enough

wow, looks great. what did you use on the rim and on the fork? thanks

btw, this thread rocks!:woohoo:

did you mask the unpainted part of rim or did you sand the finish off?

I used blue masking tape on the spokes and rubbed the machined edge with a socket to cut it. It works pretty good and if you have any paint seep under the tape you can scrape it off with your fingernail if you pull the tape off before the paint gets to dry.I used 1/8" fine line tape to go around the lip. Much easier than masking tape but you have to get at a auto paint store. I did one side at a time taped it off painted it and cleared it then flipped it over and did the other side after tha paint had dried of course and it took about 15 minutes to tape off each side.

gengomerpyle wrote:

did you mask the unpainted part of rim or did you sand the finish off?

the guy that has my bike before me painted the whole rim. i would like to have the side of rim and spoke edges unpainted. i just need to kind out the best way to go about removing the paint off the parts i dont want painted.

I'd pull them off and strip the paint off and start from scratch






gengomerpyle wrote:

the guy that has my bike before me painted the whole rim. i would like to have the side of rim and spoke edges unpainted. i just need to kind out the best way to go about removing the paint off the parts i dont want painted.

yeah i might just end up doing it like that. i dont like the solid black rim or ill end up buying 600 ninja rims and swap them out