Fresh face for the old girl!

Well I was kinda waiting til winter to start this project but I have been ordering new parts and with them starting to pile up on the tool box I just dug in early hope I can get it painted and back together before winter!



I have a painter at work that is going to paint the bike with a real paint job not a rattle can, for $50 if I prep and prime it first. Which I am sure I will need some pointers on.

New fork seals to start with and front and rear pads and rotors!

Well getting the forks apart was alot harder than I thought it would be...

One fork was perfect inside, the other had little to no oil in it, just mud dirt and water. This is not only a time consuming job but a dirty one. I also didnt realize you need a bunch of specialty tools. Fork oil leveling tool, extented allen not to mention the $60 special holder for the dampening rod inside to stop spinning when you try to take out the bottom bolt. Didnt get the last one no dealers had one and now I was impatiant... So I made my own! Some aluminum from the railing on the porch I built last sommer expanded the end with a socket and a hammer and pinched it into the square that the hole in the bottom holder has and got lucky the first try!!! After of course loosing a chunck out of my finger good with a wrench not a hammer Final result though a functional specialty tool for free!


More to come got lots of other stuff to do!

Looking good, keep the pix coming.

Mark

That is one sweet ride plan on starting my tear down as soon as it gets to cold to ride.

What ya doin for paint ???

Forks are a little scary the first time you tear them down. I have done enough that I can change a set of springs out in 15 min these days. You'll be glad you serviced them after you get back on the road. Mud does not yeild very good dampening action. Keep us posted.

i like those rims...what rim what fork ,or did i miss it....

Let me guess... Uhmmm... You're Irish.... :laugh:

Nothing wrong w/rattle can paint if done right... Prep and 2 part clear holds up to gas and very few can tell the difference....

Same time, @ $50 for a professional paint job, I'm with ya on that one.... SCORE!

Well no new pics today but this morning before work I put my new 34t rear sprocket on! When I first did my swing arm and wheel conversion I didnt know I need to offset (amature of me I know) But now I know...

I took a construction square and a laser pen and some duck tape and made a little contraption (very sophisticated let me tell ya) to try and find out how far off it is... This seems pretty off to me, but I came up with like 26mm, is that even possible? I have been running this way for almost two years how did that not throw the chain? Any good ideas on how to measure offset accurately? I just dont want to go ordering another $100 offset sprocket and get the completely wrong size.

The wheels and forks and brakes are all from a ZX7R.

I'm sure you checked, and this will sound silly, but are you certain the wheel is square in the swingarm? Just a little off in the swingarm will project to a larger measured error at the CC sprocket. I had to widen my frame 1.5" for the swingarm, and my required offset was less than 1".

The actual messurement was 1-1/16" I will double check the swing arm square and wheel in the swing arm square first. Thanks I should have thought to check that first... :huh:

So had to re-order fork seals after I got them apart last week. The new ones came in today!

So now I decided to refer to the manual for oil quantity and levels for the forks...

Now comes my next newby question... Why is the left fork oil level lower than the right fork??? From my disasembly I could see no differance between the two forks inside or out. Am I miss understanding something?

It says "left fork 120 +/- 2mm, right fork 149 +/- 2mm"

never heard of that either,were they air assisted or something origionally? :S