Fresh face for the old girl!

oldkaws4ever wrote:

WOW!!!!!!! That bike looks killer man. Bad to the bone :woohoo: :woohoo:

Thanks I'm super excited to get it out on the road just waiting on the front sprocket!!!

I bet, you did a great job. I hate it when little stuff like that always slows you down when you're so close to the end.

I started this originally in 2003.


And now I am just so close to having the way I want it that I can taste it

I just keep telling myself its taken this long whats a couple more days... Its not working

Lol, i hear you there, it will be all worth it the first ride you take on it.

Finally got around to bleeding my brakes tonight :blink:

No front sprocket so I cant go, but I figure its more important to be able to stop :silly:

So this seems novice to me but, I had my rear caliper lock up on me about 2 yrs. ago, yes i have been riding this whole time without them. To the question. I bled the rear brake (1992 zx7r caliper) two bleeders, did the out side first them inside. When done the rear was rock solid locked up again (new rear caliper) So I opened the bleeders and popped the pads loose and re-bled...

This time they seemed to release after each press of the pedal??? I did this about a dozen times and packed tools to release the bleeders while on the road, just in case. Last time it locked up and I was stranded.

I have bled lots of brakes but none with multiple bleeders. Can I do it wrong? Anyone with any experience with this?

Jay, the GSXR caliper I'm using is the same way. You should bleed the inside piston first. I had to go back and forth between the two a couple of times, but you have to get the inside clear first and then the outside. How new are your pads back there? Often times, when your pads get low, the pistons extend too far and they tilt and fail to properly retract. Also, all of my 90's era brake calipers had to be dis-assembled and cleaned to function properly. They get this white crud that builds up behind the rubber seals. It forces the seals out, and causes the pistons to stick. Not what you wanted to hear, but you may need to dis-assemble your caliper and check those seals. I view proper break function as an absolute necessity.

Do yourself a HUGE favor.... Get one of these...
Prevents air/bubbles from re-entering back in the line...

Made it a hell of a lot easier for bleeding dual front calipers....

The cheaper NAPA unit worked well but the spring would slip off the caliper nipples at times during opening and closing the nipple.

With that in mind, I upgraded to the Stockton unit for tighter grip on the caliper nipples. In either case I found the tubing too damn short... No big deal for insert some longer tubing into the container can...

another thing to check is the pins that the pads slide on(and retain the pads).on the r1 caliper that i am running on the rear of my z1r it would hang occasionaly.i bought new seals and when i pulled them apart there was nothing that was obviously causing me the problem.so while scratching my head i thought that i would clean the pins off.chucked them into a drill and use some emery cloth to clean them and noticed that the pins had wear where the pads had been sliding on them,only on one end tho.i replaced the pins with some new ones and a little grease and they work like a charm now.better than ever.
long story short (i know,to late )
check the pins.

leon

Well thanks for all the feed back guys. The calipers were a fresh rebuild and super clean. The pads are brand spankin new front and rear.

I re-bled the rear and did the inside one first like testarossa said this seemed to work perfectly! Thanks a ton.

531blackbanshee these pins are the two pins that the pads them selves slide on right? If so... Those were the only old part I had to use. Really great idea with the drill and emery cloth. Although it will require them to come back off I think I will go ahead and do that. Even though they are working great now I think that may be on the preventative side.

OMR I agree that set up is great I do have one and yes the stock tube was wayyyy too short.

yes sir that is the pins that i am talking about.i replaced the rotor and pads and never cleaned the old pins.when i discovered the brake dragging i ordered new seals took the pistons out and cleaned them,they were perfect no scores or marks or anything the seals were pliable.i was wondering why the hell my brake was dragging.then when i cleaned the pins and saw the wallered out spaces on one end of both pins(not both ends of both pins just one end of each pin).i was like damn,really(it was slowly sinking in)wow this is why my brakes were dragging sonufa!
when i replaced my pads and rotor to start with i did not notice the wear on the pins.once i cleaned them tho there was no mistaking it.
brake is better than it has ever been now,they had been hosing me every since i converted the rear wheel and brake over to the r1 stuff.i thought i was dumba$$ing up and riding around with my foot partly on the pedal or something.
$8.00 worth of pins,damn!

leon

So if I am not mistaken, correct me if i'm wrong. Those pins guide the pads. If I compress the brake and hold it down so that pressure remains on the pads and they stay lined up, couldnt I just pull the pins and replace them without removing the caliper again?

Just being lazy I guess, probably more work to try it this way...

You can probably get the pin out that way. I know that I can do it on mine but you have to work :silly: