TOPIC:

Great job man.
How is the chain to frame and tire clearance working out for u so far? what size chain did u deaside on,630,530?oringed,or not?

Ok I struggled to figure a way through this issue, then decided to cut a section out of the frame. You have to cut deep, Made me nervous, you gotta cut the relief to the depth you need then deeper for the plate thickness.

ARRHHHHHGHHHH!!! I saw the guts, and almost vomit myself, it was horrid!! We made it through the surgery, I did not faint.

The cypherin was done a while ago, so i dont remember the exact width of the 630 O ring chain, seems like it was just under 1 1/8", I just remembered I need some clearnace for Chain flopperamagicness.

Another view.

Look at the swingarm bushing, we cut this whole sheet metal section out to align and put in the new swingarm bushings to fit the ZRX set up.

The Wizards handy work..the Wizard is awesome, and his identity will remain unknown, per his request.

The tire clearance was easier, I used to go to the track in Seattle and Spokane with Racers from Wenatchee, so they helped me find the size. We knew the desired width, so we just started looking at all the bikes and measuring the total width till we found what was needed.

180/55 17 cleared the chain.

Hmmm... now you have me looking at the bottom side of the chain clearance I just remember that was not an issue. You would think it too would need clearance but seems like it did not.

Maybe if Stoppee reads this he can input something, he helped me cypher all this, it was a while ago...STOPPEEEE!!

great you have a wizard and my wizard went and died on me so i'm struggling along wizardless [is that even a word don't know, don't care] in stead of making up spacers i reach in to my special bag of cast off parts and sometimes find what i'm looking for it can be a pain at tire change time trying to remember where every thing goes but thankfully i only have to do that every 6 races or so. by the way have i mentioned how much i like your bike and ideas,oh well maybe i will someday.

My Condolances for you and your Wizard.

Thanks for the compliment!!

tk11b40 wrote:

180/55 17 cleared the chain.

Hmmm... now you have me looking at the bottom side of the chain clearance I just remember that was not an issue. You would think it too would need clearance but seems like it did not.

I had to grind off the bottom foot ped bolt"s boss , on the inside. as the chain flops around it wore on the boss.
I chose to go none oring to add clearance.
I think u have chosen the better path by cutting the frame. the ony other way would be giong with a 1/2" offset sprocket.I never did understand why other guys dont have all these issues when they use dif swing arms? I ended up putting on a 170 tire to gain chain to tire clearance. i also had to mill the back of the hub to move the rear sprocket to the right, while maintaining the wheels center.
i still wonder if my troubles were do to, trying to line up the rear rim to the front rim. posibly the steering neck is offset to the left, witch forces everything at the rear, towards the left???? when i finnished, the rear rim looked offset to the left, when veiwed from the back end, eventhough it is in line with the front rim.

You have a great point there.

This is what brought me to KZR forum. You see all kinds of stuff when you look close at modifications. You would be surprised how many bukes have the rear tire offset form the front or, when they line up to the front, they are offset from the centerline of the rear fender. The guys in this forum take it seriously, abd understand when you ask these questions.

My Ducati S4r, it does not even look "perfect". Drives me crazy. The KZ centered up well, it looks right. I think that was just luck.

You are right; you probably have a steering head thats offset a little, and there you go, the rear tire is always going to look a touch off center.

My plan "B", was to shim the rear fender if it turned out to look like the rear tire was off center. I would try that. Keep the two wheels lined up, very important when the front end gets light at high speed.

I got tired of trying to get a good view of everything, while the bike was sitting on the floor. I have considered a Harbor freight bike lift, but that is Chinese stuff and generally Chinese stuff "looks like it will work" but ends up in a landfill.

So for about 50 bucks in lumber and hardware, I built this table/ workstand today.

I think it's cool/ maybe it'll give you some ideas.

Very cool bike table. Nice job. i can really appreciate it since i am a better wood worker than a bike builder.
I have often thought of that myself. Then I tell myself that I am only going to build this bike once so I wont need it any more. This is build # 4. lol.
I have heard from guys that they have not had any issues running the rear tire offset from the front. Guys that I THINK know what there talking about.
I just did not want to find out the hard way that they are wrong, so I made sure mine was true to the front tire.
I have even heard that some factory bikes are off. I guess that must be true since they cant even get the steering necks on straight.
Anyways. My next project will be a 200 tire on the rear. That may force me to offset the rear end?
I may even offset this one some time, just to see if it has any ill effects first.
I noticed a little lightness in the front end when i go over bumps with this setup. i will try raising the rear 1" to see how it affects this. 1" at the rear is close to 1* rake at the front.It will give me less rake, witch is bad,but im thinking if i get more weight up front, it will be better. idealy i should try to move weight from the rear to the front. that is how the modern bikes get away with less rake.

This may sound like a silly question; but have you thought about lowering the forks in the triple clamp. Drag racers do it to get more weight over the front end.

Thanks for the compliments. The table is one of those things I just finally stopped work on the bike and said to myself "I have got to get this thing up in the air!!!"