77 KZ1000 resurrection

Not sure of the make, but they are the cheaper pods... not K&N

If your not going to use the stock air box go with K&N's. Probably 26's Mikunis. Stock 1000 should use 15 - 17.5 pilots. And probably (maybe) 120 mains. More than likely smaller mains would be better. I had a set of Emgo's once and my problems didn't go away until I had 140 mains. Way to big. But it evened it out. Needless to say I have another set up presently. I also have 29's on both of my bikes with K&N's.

Well, she is running, but awful smoky... I was hoping to make it through the summer before tearing apart the motor but I think I need at least valve seals, and maybe rings. Pretty good time to learn how to adjust the valves as well. So I am going to order a gasket set, and do it up. Any advice for a 1st timer tearing a motor (non two stroke) down?

read the manual throughly and take your time your not in a race if it feels like it's stuck it probably is then double check you have all the bolts out,some times the old gaskets will hold really well so use the pry points and try not to hit the fins on the head or block. if using a hammer buy a deadblow type. be extra carefull taking of the cam caps take the bolts out in stages 5 or 6 turns then move to the next bolttry oosening the cam cap bolts all the same amount because if you take them off a cap at a time you can break the cams or destroy the cam caps,before you start tearing down the engine wash it really good especally around the front and top of the motor you will be amazed at how much stuff that can get caught in the stud holes in the front blow as much dirt as you can out of them. also be prepared with lots of rags to prevent crud from falling in to the bottom end when lifting the head and cylinder of.any othr thing ican help with feel free to pm me.

I don't have a manual... yet. I have been looking for a factory service manual, and can't find one. So... Clymers or Haynes??? I did search, and it seems that Haynes may be the way to go until I can stumble upon a FSM. My only concern is that Haynes will get me 1/2 way to where I need to be tearing down the motor.

if i have achoice between a haynes or a clymer i'll usally take the clymer just so i don't have to translate from English to american, english terminology sometimes seem's a bit wacky to me.

toecutter1974 wrote:

Well, she is running, but awful smoky... I was hoping to make it through the summer before tearing apart the motor but I think I need at least valve seals, and maybe rings. Pretty good time to learn how to adjust the valves as well. So I am going to order a gasket set, and do it up. Any advice for a 1st timer tearing a motor (non two stroke) down?

Before tearing down a 20K engine or fiddling with the carbs, I would first do the basics: change oil and filter; perform compression test; check and adjust valve clearances (perhaps first time ever for this engine); perform another compression test; perform leakdown test; visually inspect quality of spark on business end of plugs; clean and gap points (if still so fitted); check and set ignition timing with a strobe timing light and verfiy that advancer unit is functioning properly; drain and flush fuel tank; remove, disassemble and clean petcock; install new inline fuel filter; measure voltage reaching coil primaries; assure good clean snug wiring connections, battery cable connections at terminals and negative cable connection where it attaches to the engine or frame; remove and clean the crankcase breather; install brand new sparkplugs.

Much of the oil burning is likely due to hardened valve stem seals, which usually is worse until the engine warms up some and then diminishes. Sometimes reduced somewhat by parking on centerstand instead of sidestand to avoid oil accumulation around leftside under valve cover.

Test run several miles for effect, and then some attention to carbs will probably be necessary. First, check service floatbowl fuel levels using the clear tube test.

Bottom line -- these bikes are tough old birds that can withstand a lot of abuse. And 20K is typically way too soon for an engine teardown absent severe abuse and non-maintenance. Maybe the 20K has done enough damage to warrant an engine teardown. But I would first attend to all the above matters to at least have a basis for later comparisons, realizing that many of then are needed regardless of a prospective teardown.

Just my thinking. But, regardless how deciding to proceed, betcha you're gonna love this bike!

Good Luck!

Thanks, I'll probably run through all of this (compression, valves etc) this week and see where I am after that. This forum has been an invaluable resource so far... thanks for all the help!
P.S. I've only ridden it about a mile, but I already love this bike!!!

Do I need to oil these pods? (Emgo I believe) I'd like the K&Ns, but the KZ budget has already exceeded the amount that I quoted the wifey...

Valves...
So, I have been tweaking and tuning, and the old KZ is really starting to come alive. I do however, have to check the valves. I have always preferred to tackle my own maintenance on my bikes, but I have never done a valve adjustment... What will I need? I am planning on:
Valve cover gasket, valve seals (just in case) and...

So,
This is my 1st KZ, but I have owned many different bikes. I have done quite a bit of clean up, and I am now in the process of fine tuning everything. I checked my compression (not sure if I did it right) checked spark, adjusted the float level (carb #1 was set way too high... that explains the persistant leak!) and I have been taking her out on shakedown runs here and there. Well, my 1st few times, I was a little under impressed with the legendary Z power... I chalked it up to being an older bike, and maybe a bit tired, or my carbs were badly in need of balancing. Long story short, I had a fouled plug, and was running on three cyliners! Took her to work this morning, and wow, what a difference:woohoo:

Go to the Yamaha shop and get a product called ring free.

It will clean up the top end of the engine and really break down the carbon build up. It is not snake oil and really works for bikes that have been sitting for a while. Roy