Engine flooding

Right,
after some fetling, the fuel pressure regulater appears to be fine, hopefully, however, I checked voltage at the injector connectors and found that 3 and 4 have voltage and appear to be operating correctly. On 1 and 2 however, there is no voltage even when cranking the engine over. Checked my wiring diagram and it shows that 2 cables coloures white and red from the injectors go to the relay, and then they go off to the ecu. But is confusing as  the diagram shows that all these cables splice together in the loom. I can't believe that there may be break in the cable. This bike has done little milage and hasn't been played around with, and I can't see any evidence of rodent damage. So wondering if the relay is at fault.

If the in loom joint is anything like the in loom joint of multiple earth's on 650's then nothing can be overlooked.
Under the loom wrapping on 650's 3 earth's join three in one out. The joint is simply 3 bare striped wires stuffed into one end of a brass tube with a single stuffed in the other tube end then just crimped. Not soldered or connectors. 
Every one I've seen has been green with corrosion and had massive resistance and need doing  properly using connector blocks. 
Unless you have striped all the sheathing off you can't take anything for granted on a 40 yo wiring loom. 

Every vehicle has dozens of these "node" connections in the loom and all suffer with corrosion when the damp has gotten into it regardless of mileage. The below is my solder in solution

Thanks guys for your input, this is all very helpful. I will check these joints at sometime, however I may have found the problem, and why I never checked this by now, well let's just say, lets put it down to experience. The duel relay has a fault. I did the test sequence on this relay, and found that it has an intermitent fault on one of the coils. I did a test and showed no continuity. Went and checked other things on the bike, went back and tested again, guess what, it had continuity. Fettled with a few other things, then retested, no continuity. This time no matter what i tried, tapping, kicking, bouncing it of the walks, it still failed. This is probably why it starts then stops and is a bugger to get started.
you all know the question I'm asking next, where can I find one, and is there an equivelent i can use.

Cheers.
 

kznutter wrote:

Thanks guys for your input, this is all very helpful. I will check these joints at sometime, however I may have found the problem, and why I never checked this by now, well let's just say, lets put it down to experience. The duel relay has a fault. I did the test sequence on this relay, and found that it has an intermitent fault on one of the coils. I did a test and showed no continuity. Went and checked other things on the bike, went back and tested again, guess what, it had continuity. Fettled with a few other things, then retested, no continuity. This time no matter what i tried, tapping, kicking, bouncing it of the walks, it still failed. This is probably why it starts then stops and is a bugger to get started.
you all know the question I'm asking next, where can I find one, and is there an equivelent i can use.

Cheers.

 

Well that sucks !! - they do seem to be "unobtainium" although they are common to most of the injected Kawas of that era (so you may find a used one) Personally I would carefully open it up and check the circuit board (being intermittent may simply be a soldered joint that has cracked and can be re-soldered) As a last resort if you can't fix it or find a replacement I can put together some instruction for you to build an alternative with 2 four-pin relays, three diodes and a resistor
"Never say die"

Like Wookie mentioned, easy to duplicate that array of parts. Just need the latching voltage of each relay, hopefully the same. Might be the 5V versions compared to line Main 12V if fed off the ECM? Those diodes i'll bet are the General Purpose 1N4001's but using a 1N4007 would be just fine too. Just peel back the "can" tabs and read the colors on what appears singular resistor making note of the last band (tolerance) color. Hopefully it's not potted in jelly!! I use Digikey here in the states, don't know what's available in your area. Regardless, for 1/10th the price of a "mystery" box in a Kawasaki bag, Kawasaki never made these BTW, You'll be set!!  

And some photos if they help! I rebuild these John Deere breadboards all the time and..they have the identical dual 12V relays built into each package as the schematic Wookie displayed. They are NEC or NEXEM EP2-3N1ST. About 5bucks a piece. Only difference is You'll have to solder on the diodes and singular resistor once you know it's value. Note the 1/4watt resister with the tolerance band of Gold, that's a 5% one, yours will be similar. Probably if you're clever, reuse the old can and solder accordingly. No One would even know, ha.       

Hi guys, i had a look inside the relay, and i can't see any dry joints. As for rebuilding it myself, well let's just say this is a job better left to the experts. However, I have found a alternative to the original. It's a bosch with all the relevant connections in the correct place. But I am also finding this to be unavailable in most cases, except from the US. Has anyone else used this relay on this model with success. Also does anyone know where I could get this repaired in the UK.
 

kznutter wrote:

Hi guys, i had a look inside the relay, and i can't see any dry joints. As for rebuilding it myself, well let's just say this is a job better left to the experts. However, I have found a alternative to the original. It's a bosch with all the relevant connections in the correct place. But I am also finding this to be unavailable in most cases, except from the US. Has anyone else used this relay on this model with success. Also does anyone know where I could get this repaired in the UK.

 

If you are patient you can send it to me

Wookie58,
that would be great, here is my email,
if you can give me your details for delivery.
I'm not going to find one of these. I did find an alternative, but that's even unattainable. 
I really appreciate this. Also let me know how much and ill get that to you as well.

kznutter wrote:

Wookie58,
that would be great, here is my email,
if you can give me your details for delivery.
I'm not going to find one of these. I did find an alternative, but that's even unattainable. 
I really appreciate this. Also let me know how much and ill get that to you as well.

Hi Paul, have sent you a mail, ref the money I will let you know cost of materials and once you have it back and are happy just make a contribution to KZR (link on the homepage)
I have removed your email address from your post as this is a public forum (don't want to be bothered by cheerleaders do you)

OK Paul, all done and will go in the post tomorrow. If anybody else wants to replicate what I have done I used 2 "micro" relays from Amazon rated at 10amps continuous. It's a bit fiddly but doable   (Clay I looked at your suggested relay but they cost way more here and I think for this application these were a better option)