1980 750H bare bones for mattylight

On the rectifier, hook the pink/blue/yellow wires from the stator to the three yellows on the rectifier.

Since the rectifier has 3 yellows, it may be from a different model or different year. But as long as there are three yellow it will work (assuming teh rectifier is not defective).

The same goes for the regulator, but if the reg has pnk/blu/yel, then they should be hooked up according to color (obviously).

I edited the diagram to reflect the changes.

loudhvx wrote: 1983 KZ750 K1, KZ750K1, twin.

I don't have a U.S. K1 diagram, so this one is based on a West German diagram.

What would it take to eliminate the starter button and just use on on/off/start/acc style car ign switch?

Thanks!

That's easy to install, but it makes starting more difficult since one hand will have to be turning the key. That means the clutch can't be pulled at the same time the throttle is turned. I can change the diagram to that type. As a matter of fact, yu can check out Rockabillybobber's diagram a couple pages back, to see how it looks on paper.

This version of the KZ1000 E, shaft drive, for Rockabillybobber is batteryless.
The external starting circuit should have as much of the exposed conductor covered up as possible. It's very easy for these parts to short out against the engine, so be careful.


EDIT 1/10/2019:
Mattylight Barebones Bare Bones
1980 Kawasaki Kz1000E2 no battery batteryless for Rockabillybobber
Kz1000E Kz1000 E2 Kz 1000 E 1000E2 1000E

I should have mentioned, I do plan on running a small battery out of a honda spree or something of the sort. I am in the habit of always starting my bike in neutral, so the clutch shouldnt be a problem. So just whatever it takes it to run, headlight, tail, brake, auto style key ignition. Sorry for being such an annoyance! I have no factory wiring to compare to so I am doing it all from scratch.

xbmxxx wrote: I should have mentioned, I do plan on running a small battery out of a honda spree or something of the sort. I am in the habit of always starting my bike in neutral, so the clutch shouldnt be a problem. So just whatever it takes it to run, headlight, tail, brake, auto style key ignition. Sorry for being such an annoyance! I have no factory wiring to compare to so I am doing it all from scratch.

Is this for the B or the G? If you are not using electric start (obviously the Spree battery won't turn over a 750), then you can use any simple key switch. But, of course, you can still use the 3-position car switch if you want.

It is for the G that I posted pictures of. I want to use an electric start off the key. I found this battery and I think its what I am going to go with. same size as the spree and 250cca

motydesign.com/product.php?batteries=8-cell-battery-hard-case

1980 KZ750 G1 twin upgraded with factory electronic ignition, for Xbmxxx.

EDIT 1/10/2019:
Mattylight Barebones Bare Bones
1980 Kawasaki Kz750G1 twin with aftermarket ignition switch for Xbmxxx
Kz750G Kz750 G1 Kz 750 G 750G1 750G

awesome. Thank you so much.

1979 KZ650 D2 KZ650D2 for Rhoades.
I didn't have a diagram to work from, so I had to use a couple similar ones for reference. One or two of the wire colors may be different.


EDIT 1/10/2019:
Mattylight Barebones Bare Bones
1979 Kawasaki Kz650D2 for Rhoades
Kz650D Kz650 D2 Kz 650 D 650D2 650D

Hello , i think this is one of the most helpful threads !! , i have a simple question , well 2 actually , im putting new dyna coils in my Z650 B 1981 , can i put them sideways ? if i put them straight down the cables are touching the head .. mmm ,also do i have to isolate the coil from the frame with spacers ? can this be metallic ? and last but not least i im replacing the voltage regulator for a new one but the new one has an extra cable its brown .. where does this one go ?

the original has 2 yellows , 1 black 1 white with red . the new one has a brown one more .

cheers

The coils can be mounted any way, but if the wires stick out sideways, they might hit the tank, so make sure to check.

The coils can use any type of spacer to set it away from the frame, but there should be steel bolts mounting the coils to the frame in order to complete the magnetic path for the coil's core. That type of coil has an open-loop core, and the frame and bolts closes it.

It will still work without a closed loop, but the inductance of the coils is reduced so there will be slightly less spark energy.

That extra brown wire on the reg/rec is critical. It must get battery voltage anytime the bike is running. You may be able to tap off from some switched, 12v source at the ignition switch.