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Milling carburetor slslideide as discribed in Clymer manual.

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10 Jan 2022 07:40 #860325 by LATER
Hey everyone! In my 1977 Clymer service manual, under Performance Modification, they suggest milling 0.30"off the carburetor slide. Im attempting to get a 1978 1000 LTD back on the road. It has a vm26 carbs, without pumpers,and without side mixture screws. Has any of you done this?  any feedback would be apperciated, Thank you

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  • SWest
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  • 10 22 2014
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10 Jan 2022 08:14 #860329 by SWest
It depends on which slides you have. That mod was to correct off idle performance. I never did it and there's a better mod you can do. What slide do you have? 2.0 or 1.5.? Start there.
Steve
kzrider.com/forum/3-carburetor/615950-ai...lation-how-to#849014

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  • DOHC
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  • Those Doe-Hawks really go!
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10 Jan 2022 08:14 #860330 by DOHC
Is there a diagram that shows what part is supposed to be cut?  One of the more subtle adjustments for the VM carbs is the slide cutaway.  They were available in a range of sizes.  The larger the cutaway the leaner the mixture is, with this cutaway mostly impacting the 1/4 to 1/2 throttle range.  See the mikuni tuning manual PDF I've attached (often you have to download it to view it).

In general my recommendation would be that if you are running a stock or nearly stock engine (internals that is), you should set up the carbs exactly as they came from the factory and keep the factory air box.  It should run well that way.

Second, I would not cut parts of the carbs. If you'd like to try slides with a different cutaway, correct parts can be found.

Third, I would not use Clymer manual.  The Kawasaki factory service manuals are really excellent and are relatively easy to find in PDF and print.

 

'78 Z1-R in blue , '78 Z1-R in black, '78 Z1-R in pieces
My dad's '74 Z1
'00 ZRX1100
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  • SWest
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  • 10 22 2014
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10 Jan 2022 08:33 - 10 Jan 2022 08:34 #860333 by SWest
I had that manual. The one I have now that section was pulled out. The early Z1's had 2.0 slides. They are 1.5 from then on. They also changed the pilot systems. It's important to know which carbs you have then act accordingly. IMO the air corrector jets are the best way on the later carbs. 
Steve
Last edit: 10 Jan 2022 08:34 by SWest. Reason: sp

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10 Jan 2022 08:40 #860334 by Injected
I agree with SWest, I have that manual and the carbs they show getting modified are early 28's. If you have 26's I suggest you do not do that modification, look elsewhere to solve whatever carb issue your having.
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10 Jan 2022 10:57 #860348 by LATER
Thanks everyone, The story is. I bought this bike for $500 ,7000 miles on it. it has been downed one time, stored indoors for about 8 years.Someone incorrectly mounted extended forks on it. so the cables, switchbox and wires have all been stressed. I slid the forks up, mounted some flat bars on some bar backs which will be fine for now. I put a battery in and drove it around the block. the brakes needed attention, oil was comming out of (I hope) the tach seal. The bike was very weak off idle, It has K&N pods on it. It will be while before I get to the carburetors. Im pretty sure it has the factory jets in it. In the mean time Im collecting all the info, and parts I can. You all have been a great help, Thank you!

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10 Jan 2022 12:37 #860355 by kevski

Thanks everyone, The story is. I bought this bike for $500 ,7000 miles on it. it has been downed one time, stored indoors for about 8 years.Someone incorrectly mounted extended forks on it. so the cables, switchbox and wires have all been stressed. I slid the forks up, mounted some flat bars on some bar backs which will be fine for now. I put a battery in and drove it around the block. the brakes needed attention, oil was comming out of (I hope) the tach seal. The bike was very weak off idle, It has K&N pods on it. It will be while before I get to the carburetors. Im pretty sure it has the factory jets in it. In the mean time Im collecting all the info, and parts I can. You all have been a great help, Thank you!

if you have stock jets in it, the pods will be part of the problem, with pods you will probably need air corrector jets which eliminate the off idle stumble, you can get these from Z1015 who is a member on here, he is in the UK though.
 

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10 Jan 2022 12:44 #860356 by Mikaw
The pods are causing your off idle issue. If the engine internals are all stock, you have a couple options. Look for a set of 28mm off of an 80 LTD 1000, they have an accelerator pump. Or a set off a 78 Z1R, they are 28mm but no pump. Either or whichever running pods contact Zed1015. He sells air corrector jet that correct the off idle issue. 

1976 KZ 900 A4 kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/613548-1976-kz-900-a4
1976 KZ 900 B1 LTD
1978 KZ 1000 B2 LTD
1980 KZ 750 E1
Kowledge Speaks, But Wisdom Listens.
Jimi Hendrix.

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10 Jan 2022 12:51 - 10 Jan 2022 12:54 #860357 by zed1015
As Kevski and Mikaw has advised.
All you need is the air corrector jets i provide and a minimal increase in main jetting to cure the weak off idle mixture and correct the overall jetting for pod use..
Just ask any member who has fitted them for their recommendation or use the forum search function for comments on their results.
You can PM me if you decide you want a set and i am happy to provide any help and advice you need.

AIR CORRECTOR JETS FOR VM CARBS AND ETHANOL RESISTANT VITON CHOKE PLUNGER SEAL REPLACMENT FOR ALL CLASSIC AND MODERN MOTORCYCLE CARBURETTORS
kzrider.com/forum/23-for-sale/611992-air-corrector-jets-





Last edit: 10 Jan 2022 12:54 by zed1015.
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