Cone air filter mod HELP! (airbox delete)

Five turns out likely means the pilot jets are too small.

Yah I looked up the float needles and they aren’t stock so I’m guessing jets are aftermarket as well, so will have to get new ones that are bigger. Any thoughts on what type I should get? Is there any specific kits that would work best?

Wait until you have put the airbox on or you will end up with too many variables and it will take longer to sort the issues out.

I checked my floats and the float needles and 3 of them are aftermarket and 1 is original, but the 3 aftermarket are 2x the size so I grabbed 3 from my buddies rebuild kit that were the same and threw those in and set it to 3 turns out. So I’m going to try that out, also one of the lifters with the float needle releases super fast when I lift it up and not as compressed and slower as the 3 others so I might have a bad seal in the diagram so I’m going to take that cover off and reseal it and check that then throw carbs back in and see how it runs now

I think we are having some terminology problems here. The floats control a valve that consists of a needle and seat. Together, they control how much fuel is in the fuel bowl on the bottom of the carburetor. There is nothing related to the floats that can be set by turning something out. There is no such thing as a float valve that is twice as big as another one.The diaphragms are connected to the top of each slide (piston). Hanging from the bottom of the slide is the jet needle that controls the flow of fuel from the float bowl into the venturi

This is a float
www.z1enterprises.com/mikuni-brass-float-assembly.html

This is the float valve (needle and seat)
www.z1enterprises.com/mikuni-needle-valve-assembly-28.html

Here is the jet needle that Hans down from the slide
www.z1enterprises.com/jet-needle44-mikuni-5dl31.html

Fuel mixture (pilot) screw
www.z1enterprises.com/fuel-mixture-screw-kz1000-kz1100.html

The float needles were 2 different sizes. Literally twice the size, I’ll get a picture to post it for you. But I was just saying I replaced them with ones that matched that my buddy had and then turned my fuel screw back to 3 turns because I ended up at 4-5 turns out. I fixed a small leak where diaphragm was seated corrected so now everything all feels the same fire each one when I push up on the inside slide piece that moves and holds the float needle

In theory the size of the float needle and seat will not do anything to lean or rich condition as long as float levels are correct. The larger float needle and seat would only allow additional fuel flow once the float level drops to allow fuel to start flowing. The fuel bowl would just refill faster. Fuel level will cause a lean/rich condition. Have you correctly set float levels.

Buzz 69 wrote: You may be pulling to much air ans creating a neg pressure in bowl ao fuel cant travel up or something blocking take. Cones off cover carbs with hand try to kill engine

Courious. What would be accomplish by running the engine with pods off and trying to cover the intake with your palm?

And you first quote is a little incorrect also. Your correct In stating more air will result in less fuel. But the reason isn’t that it creates a negative pressure in the fuel bowl. The fuel bowl is, if the system is working correctly, at ambient pressure at all times. Air flow through the carb throat creates a lower than ambient pressure at the jets which allows fuel to be pushed out of the bowl by the higher ambient pressure,through the jet, into the engine.

The slide and the float needle have nothing to do with each other.

Gotcha! Yah I’m new into all the main carb parts, I’ve done cleanings and all that but nothing at the point of full adjustments or anything. I ended up running the bike and taking off the throttle cables to see if that’s what was causing the rpm hang and it wasn’t, so i let it warm up for a good 10 mins and fit it again and hang went away and then it came back so i sprayed around the carb boots and all that and no change in idle then I sprayed the air valve and idle went up so definitely an air leak there so I sealed it all up. So tomorrow I’m going to check it out and see if the rpm hang went away. I also started the bike without choke and had idle at 1300-1500

Ok, since we are at it...

Just bought a 1982 KZ750 LTD. Exhaust was shut, so bought a 4into1 with Vance and Hines muffler. Do I have to rejet or not? The carbs are stock right now : Pilot jet 35, primary main jet 62 and secondary main jet 125.

And if I go pod filters route (K&N), I read on this site a previous post from undiablo back in 2015, that the 750H with pod filters and 4into1 exhaust I should run 35, 70, 140. When I look at post, I keep hearing Dyno jet stages and they always have drill bits.. I"m not drilling anything on my carbs.

Any advise/explanation would be greatly appreciated.

JL