Cone air filter mod HELP! (airbox delete)

Hey everyone, I just bought a 1996 GPZ1100- ABS in which the previous owner had removed the airbox and installed pod cone filters. The bike ran and idled but when you’d turn off the choke the Rpms would hang and around 3grand. I tried to adjust the carbs as well as the idle adjustment screw to see if it would help with the rpm hang but it didn’t help at all but stall the bike or make the idle higher. I then reset the bleeder screws to 2.5-3 turns out from seated. And bike would not start except slightly turn over and and It would only backfire, so I tried to find where it was set before around 5 turns out and starts up and then stalls out or just backfires. I noticed there was no hose coming from the crankcase/starter breather that would have been attached to the bottom of the air box and nothing connected to the air switch valve hose that would have been attached to the top of the box. So my question is, is there anyway to re-route those hoses or plug them. I feel as if there isn’t enough being pulled into the carbs to allow it to run at all now.

The clean air system can be removed. The two reed cages either need to be connected with a hose, blocked off (a pair of 5/8 inch freeze plugs should do the trick), or the tops replaced with block off plates (Kwik and I believe APE makes some). Three of the four carb vacuum ports need to be capped off (use the factory caps, cheap ones will leak). The fourth one operates the fuel tap (petcock).
There are two ways to deal with the crankcase vent. One is to run a hose from it up under the seat, toward the back of the bike, and let it vent to atmosphere. The more expensive way is to buy a small filter that fits on the vent.
You will also need to rejet the carbs, since it seems unlikely that the previous owner took care of that. The simplest way is to buy a kit from Dynojet.
P.S. I love that generation of GPz.
P.S.P.S. If the filters are some cheap Chinese crap, get rid of them. Good quality filters from APE, K&N, or Uni will make tuning much easier, and the results much more satisfying.
Is it possible to get the factory air filter box from the previous owner? That would be the easiest way to get the bike running properly.

Also, you really ought to install some Kwik No-Flos and a Kwick Tensioner Tamer. The No-Flos will insure that no oil gets sucked into the exhaust ports, and the tamer will prevent the factory starter chain tensioner from failing (it is a known weakness) and destroying the engine.

Hold on to your wallet, there is a lot of cool stuff here—-
www.kwick.biz/

Thank you I’ll take a look and see what I can do to get that done. I’ll post some pics of the carbs and how everything is set up just to clarify what exact ports need to be plugged and ran. I’m currently waiting for the previous owner to get back to me on if they can find the original airbox but if not I’d like to reject the carbs and plug/cap whatever is needed for it to run again and run properly. And I def agree with the love of this style/gen of the GPZ. It’s a beautiful bike and very comfortable to ride!

So looking at the carbs from the air filter side, the the far left (1) and far right (4) have tube running to a T that goes directly to the air switch valve, carb (2) has the hose running to the petcock and carb (3) is capped. The center rail has the 2 hoses that drop down i between the carbs that run to nothing. The large hose that is connected to the air switch valve that leads to the airbox (which is not on anymore) so it’s open and not connected as well as the crank case breather open (which I will attach a hose and divert to the back of the bike)

Looks like you have it under control. You will need caps for 1 & 4. The two hoses that go down from the carbs, should go between the back of the engine and the swing arm pivot. They are carburetor bowl vents.

You may be pulling to much air ans creating a neg pressure in bowl ao fuel cant travel up or something blocking take. Cones off cover carbs with hand try to kill engine

So I should unplug the hoses on 1&4 that go to the air switch valve and plug them?

That’s what I was thinking as well, I’ve been trying one thing after another. But at this point the bike won’t even start, just goes to turn over and backfires.

96GPZ1100abs wrote: So I should unplug the hoses on 1&4 that go to the air switch valve and plug them?

Yes, or remove them and cap the tube they connect to at the carbs.

Alright I’ll give that a try! I’ll
Let you know how it goes

Got everything capped and starts right up, but only thing now is that the rpms hang really bad. I’ve tried to adjust the throttle position screw to drop it
Down and doesn’t work, and my screws are 2.75 turns out. I also just put new spark plugs in.