Cone air filter mod HELP! (airbox delete)

96GPZ1100abs wrote: Got everything capped and starts right up, but only thing now is that the rpms hang really bad. I’ve tried to adjust the throttle position screw to drop it
Down and doesn’t work, and my screws are 2.75 turns out. I also just put new spark plugs in.

Now you have got this far, the very best thing you can do is source an original airbox and associated parts and put that area back to stock intake, pods and CV carbs do not mix, at very best you will end up with a compromise, the manufacturers would not spend millions of dollars without reason getting these to run right if you could simply put on pods and jet to suit.

96GPZ1100abs wrote: Got everything capped and starts right up, but only thing now is that the rpms hang really bad. I’ve tried to adjust the throttle position screw to drop it
Down and doesn’t work, and my screws are 2.75 turns out. I also just put new spark plugs in.

Hanging idle is often a sign of a very lean mixture. It is likely there are still some leaks. Are the carb holders soft and pliable? Are the carbs fully seated in them? Are the vacuum plugs soft and tight?
It is also possible that the po did not install the proper jets, thus adding to the lean problem. Does the bike have the full factory exhaust installed?

Everything is stock other than the pods. I did check cables and they’re getting hung up and the throttle isn’t returning when twisting it. So Now that bike is up and running and those issues are fixed I’m going to order an airbox and get everything put back to stock, and replace the throttle cables. It’ll hang then it won’t and I was playing with the cables and it’s def the cables, I sprayed all around the boots and hoses and stuff with carb cleaner and nothing caused it to rev or react so definitely no air leaks.

Yah that’s my plan, I have to order a new box becuase previous owner let me know they couldn’t find the box for it so I’ll be ordering one as well as new cables becuase they’re being hung up and causing it to hang and handle won’t return back after checking for air leaks

Loosen the push cable and see if the trottle returns.
To adjust those, get them loose then adjust the pull cable to where you have proper freeplay/slack. Then slowly tighten the push cable until it interferes with the action and back it off a turn or so.

96GPZ1100abs wrote: Yah that’s my plan, I have to order a new box becuase previous owner let me know they couldn’t find the box for it so I’ll be ordering one as well as new cables becuase they’re being hung up and causing it to hang and handle won’t return back after checking for air leaks

I am pretty sure the air filter box is no longer available new, so you will be shopping for a used one. Take a close look at a parts diagram to be sure you get a complete one. There are a surprising number of parts to it.

www.kawasaki.com/en-us/owner-center/part...GPZ1100-_-PARTBUCKET

On the other hand, if the individual filters are high quality, you may just want to keep them and jet the carbs accordingly. I have APE filters and a Holeshot exhaust system on my ZRX (almost identical engine to your GPz), and it runs quite nicely. I have Dynojet Stage III jet kits in the carbs. Ivan’s and Factory Pro make really good kits as well. The combination added 15 ~ 20 horsepower, removed several pounds, and allowed me to install a huge storage compartment under the seat.

Yah I found one on eBay I just have to see if it’s complete, it has the box and rubber boots that connect to the carbs but not sure if insides are complete. And I might end up doing that. I just got the carbs bench synced, and now going to work on adjusting the cables to see if that could possibly be the issue as well. I do have the float needles with the adjustment clip, it 2 from the top, would that make any difference adjusting it? Doesn’t lowering the clip make it run richer?

No sense in tuning if the throttle isnt returning properly.

Very true, I took out the cables, they were bent amd kinked inside the hand control so I straightened them out and pushed them in and out to make sure they moved freely, I hooked it all back up together and later today I’m Going to hook carb back up and try and adjust the cables after that to see if I can get it to spin back and not stick in place.

96GPZ1100abs wrote: I do have the float needles with the adjustment clip, it 2 from the top, would that make any difference adjusting it? Doesn’t lowering the clip make it run richer?

I assume you are talking about the jet needle, not the float needle. I am pretty sure the U.S. models did not come with adjustable ones, so you may have jet kits already installed. Yes, lowering the clip raises the needle and enriches the mixture. I would not mess with the needle height just yet, as it has almost no effect on the idle mixture. It would be useful to be sure they are all set the same, though.

Gotcha, alright and yah I’m going to check cusni only really noticed it on the last one I was putting back in.

I adjusted cables, had carbs synced and set screws at 4 turns, and it runs nice and the rpm hang stopped until it warmed up and has about half the hang, so I’m gunna jump to 5 turns and see if I go to far