Project KZ440 Scrambler

Updates:

New brake line arrived today. While bleeding the system I noticed a hiss coming from the caliper. I think the piston seal is leaking so I'll have to order a rebuild kit.
The fuel petcock is also leaking, so that needs a rebuild kit as well.

I ended up removing the rear fender and the rear fender mount. This allows the seat to sit lower/flatter, and it gives the bike a more rugged look. I still need to trim the front fender.
All the lights are now permantely wired up.  
The intakes are also finished. Each carb has a 2 inch long piece of 55mm ID silicone intake hose with a small foam pod filter.
I'm going to try making a skid plate with some 1/4" HDPE. 

Still dealing with the broken tap in the cylinder head.  

Took it for a spin today. Felt pretty low on power. 
Plugs are fouled and the spark looks weak so I'm going to replace them with the correct spark plugs and test the ignition coil.
Also need to check the valves. Other than that it runs and stops! So thats a win. 

Edit:
Well went to look at the timing advance unit and found this:
youtube.com/shorts/ErAnRZeUVkg?feature=share

Yikes!     it ran like that??  

Adrian719 wrote:

DOH! There's your problem...

Do I try to clean this up or do I try and replace it? How exactly do the weights work, can this assembly spin at a different speed than the crankshaft?

Clean it the best you can as it sets. Then disassemble and give each part a good cleaning.

ckahleer wrote:

Clean it the best you can as it sets. Then disassemble and give each part a good cleaning.

Agreed... start with this:  www.google.com/search?q=electrical+contact+cleaner


 

Wow, what a mess. I would clean it all up and assess, but I bet the rotor is too far gone to save. 
The rotor spins at exactly the same speed as the crankshaft. As rpm rises, the springs allow the weights to move outward, slightly advancing the point at which the plugs fire. As rpm goes down, the springs pull the weights back, thus retarding the spark a bit. 
Be very careful with that 13 mm bolt in the center. If you break it, you will be very sad. Lots of good penetrating oil and patience will pay off. Kano Kroil and Liquid Wrench are among the best penetrants. WD40 and such, are a waste of time here.

TexasKZ wrote:

Wow, what a mess. I would clean it all up and assess, but I bet the rotor is too far gone to save. 
The rotor spins at exactly the same speed as the crankshaft. As rpm rises, the springs allow the weights to move outward, slightly advancing the point at which the plugs fire. As rpm goes down, the springs pull the weights back, thus retarding the spark a bit. 
Be very careful with that 13 mm bolt in the center. If you break it, you will be very sad. Lots of good penetrating oil and patience will pay off. Kano Kroil and Liquid Wrench are among the best penetrants. WD40 and such, are a waste of time here.

Well that would explain the lack of power of the timing is too slow at high rpm. 
I sprayed the whole thing with deep creep on Friday and will check it again tomorrow. I don't even want to touch that 13mm lol

Managed to get it cleaned up. Deep creep and a brass brush worked well. The weights move freely now.

So while the bike is idling, it will occasionally backfire through the carb. Also as the RPM's climb, power depletes. I can't tell at what RPM as the tachometer isn't working for some reason. 

Managed to get that crank bolt out and take the whole timing assembly off. Going to soak everything in vinegar overnight and scrub it down again. 
I did notice while removing it that something is broken.