1973 Z1 Maui

wrote:

wrote:

Steve just curious. I see all your electric parts are on the left side of your bike, did you do that or was it the former owner or is it normal for a Z1B in the US ?
Because i am working on the electric parts of my bike at the moment and all the parts are on the right side of my bike, a Z1B 1975 europe.
Willem
No my bike was ruined in 86 in the wreck. I bought a frame but was ripped off. It's a KZ900 frame so I used the parts from the wrecked KZ900 I had on hand. It will never be stock again. 

 It's mine and I'm doing all the mods I want now making it faster, more stable and going with Mag's off a KZ750G to customize how I always wanted it to be. 

 
The frame is thicker and I'm adding gussets to stiffen up the frame. Went with a 98 KZP swing arm that is 1 1/2" longer and stronger than stock. NO MORE WOBBLES. 

In your case it looks like the wires were barely touched. I'd solder the bare parts, test the windings for shorts against the case and if good clean and coat the wires then put it back together. 
Keep us posted on your progress. 
Steve
Actually, the  bike is a Z1 built in 1972. I think they were different.

 

If damage to the copper strands is minimal, heat shrink tubing should work.  If too many strands are severed, current capacity of the conductors will be reduced.

If the grommet is being replaced anyway, the Y wires will be free at the pin connector ends so the grommet can be slid over them.  That seems it would be the time to slide the outer sheath off of the dyno wire bundle.  Cut some heat shrink tubing to cover the exposed conductors, maybe even two layers, and slide them over the length of the wires to the damaged areas.

  Perhaps talk to an auto electric shop for advice on any specialized heat/oil-resistant insulator tubing for this repair.  It could be that a shop that rewinds alternators, starters & such could replace the Y wires and secure the splices, or at least supply a few inches of tubing.  The difficult part may be to replicate the fiber twine ties that were done during manufacture before the whole assembly was shellacked, and the shellacking itself for mechanical stability.

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE

Yes, those knots were made very nicely and very tiny. Beautiful work.

Does anyone have a photo of how the wiring harness gets bunched up around the headlamp? Is it all inside the can? It’s a lot of stuff and of course I didn’t adequately photograph it when I took it apart. I never take enough photos.

Making progress.
Still waiting on some parts, doing little things like setting the points. For some reason I find these points harder to set than my K3 750 Honda, not sure why, I'll get there.

I figured out the points issue. I have two back plates, one is a TEC one is un marked. The un marked one looked to be in better shape so I used it. Turns out it is a sloppy fit to the counterbore on the engine and as such would not center up. Switched to the TEC, problem solved.
As I hand turn the motor I can feel a little rumble like the cam chain going by the slipper, it turns easily. I wonder if the slight rumble feel is something to worry about. I may drop the oil pan and look from below just to check things. I re-checked cam timing, it's ok. I released the tensioner bolt, no change,

You won't be able to see much.  The cam chain sprocket is covered by the center bearing cap.  The oil pump is also in the way.  If you want to look at the chain tensioner you could remove it and go in with a light to make sure it's centered.  Or maybe a camera on a flex rod.

If the motor rotates completely around a full cycle then your timing is OK.  But if you rotate the crank and you feel something solid stopping it....you probably are hitting a valve with a piston.  When checking after setting timing I normally rotate the engine with the kick starter, but I do it very slowly, and I keep the spark plugs out to relieve compression.  I don't use the end of the crank because I once broke the timing pin that way.  Had to tear the engine back down and remove the crank to have a machinist replace it.

I checked timing, it’s good. I took the oil pump out to eliminate that. I’m going to take the cams out next. If I can’t figure it out I’ll remove the top end and check everything again. The odd feel coincides with two cam lobes depressing valves. I checked and each time I felt it an intake and exhaust lobe were down, it didn’t matter which two. It only happens when valves are depressed. Plenty of assembly lube on everything. No spark plugs in. 

Does anyone have a photo of how the wiring harness gets bunched up around the headlamp? Is it all inside the can? It’s a lot of stuff and of course I didn’t adequately photograph it when I took it apart. I never take enough photos.

Main harness enters the headlight on left side of frame neck.
Both handle bar harness go on right side of frame neck.

As I hand turn the motor I can feel a little rumble like the cam chain going by the slipper, it turns easily. I wonder if the slight rumble feel is something to worry about. I may drop the oil pan and look from below just to check things. I re-checked cam timing, it's ok. I released the tensioner bolt, no change,

Turning crank with left bolt or right bolt you will feel a change as valves open and close this is normal.
Spray oil on cam shims so them slide on cam.[/quote]

I had a similar feeling with my KZ750 when turning it over slowly with a wrench.  It seemed to bind up at a certain point in the revolution.  I had to reverse rotate it and come back.  After going over it a few more times and verifying the valve timing was right, I just went with it.  The motor runs fine without issue (except for carb sync'ing and tuning).

Thank you to all, I was thinking I was just obsessing about it. My past experience with my sohc Honda didn’t help. 
 

wrote:

I had a similar feeling with my KZ750 when turning it over slowly with a wrench.  It seemed to bind up at a certain point in the revolution.  I had to reverse rotate it and come back.  After going over it a few more times and verifying the valve timing was right, I just went with it.  The motor runs fine without issue (except for carb sync'ing and tuning).

 

Thanks for the information. The fresh rebuilt engine I bought would do the same thing. I put mystery oil in the cylinders and have only turned it over Two full revolution and felt a tight spot so I stopped. I was concerned as Maui was. Appears it might be a characteristic of these engines. Thanks.