1973 Z1 Maui

Anyone know what it’s made of? I think I found some here.

Can’t help you with the batch design but here’s the website 

www.metalrescue.co.uk/


EDIT; It’s mostly water. I bought a few gallons as I need that much to cover the item. The directions say you can pour it back into the gallon and refill the jug with water to replace what has evaporate. Well I had two or more gallons in a plastic tote and didnt mark a level when new so I had know idea how much had evaporated. I took a chance and just left it in the tote but covered. Checking every couple of days I saw the lever dropping. Thinking well there goes my money evaporating into thin air. One day the level just stopped dropping. No more has disappeared in over a year. When I need to soak something I have about 3” in an 18 gallon tote. Just pop the top and drop stuff in. If I need more coverage I till the tote by placing a board or equivalent under one end. It’s darker and sediment in the bottom but doesn’t seem to have lost any strength. 

Sounds good. 
my electrolysis setup is slowly working. My anode is twisted rebar tie wire. Doesn’t look like much but it’s working. 
half of engine back in the frame. 

Looks like your moving along very well
 

The tank interior is quite a bit better. I’ll be taking it over to Oahu early December for repair and paint along with the side covers and tail. I’m going to hand carry both ways. My little twisted iron tie wire worked a lot better than I expected.
 

I did a 3 hour soak with Metal Prep, diluted, the tank looks much better now. On to repair next month.
I also spent some time on the top end getting ready to assemble. As I suspected the TSB Z25 was incomplete. The PO did not relieve the inboard area of the slots to let the pin settle into the slot properly. I hope to fix that tomorrow. 
 

i worked on getting the idler sprockets to fit correctly. much better now.
i also fit the cylinders. they went on easily enough but they rock a bit when all the way down, i suppose it's the rubber blocks on the lower idler, i lifted the cylinder a bit to look and I also notice the sleeve o rings managed to slip down some, I wish they stayed in place, I suppose i need to remove the cylinder to push them back up but I'm not sure it will do any good

I can;'t reall any rocking motion of the cylinders when installed.  There should be two locating pins between the cylinders and the case.  Do you have them installed?

As far as I am aware I've never had a problem keeping the o rings in place, but I've never looked.  Did they come with a gasket kit?

There are 2 sizes of those dampners. Top 2 idlers & lower one in the block on engine case. You have te correct ones? And that idler shaft looks a little worn too?
I wish I had your energy and drive! You are moving right along there!

I'll remove the cylinders and check everything just to be sure.
The dowels are there
The rubbers are correct with the "up" side up.
I'm going to have a big slow down while I wait for my tank to be fixed. I am hoping this comes out ok, if it works I'll have the original tank on the bike. I'll keep the spare in case.

I removed the cylinders and found that the lower idler shaft had rotated a bit making the rubber block too proud. I put it back and lightly tamped it down so it would sit still.I also coaxed the o rings into the grooves which isn’t easy as they like to kink up. Second time was a charm, went right together, all torqued up. Move on to the head, which went on nicely, working on cams right now, I’ll get new photos. 
I took a look at my old cams and the exhaust is even worse than I thought, I’m glad I got a set of hollow stock cams from Johnny’s. 
I ordered the exhaust, it will be fun to hear it run with stock exhaust and a choke system that works.
I’ll recheck torque in a few days just for grins.

It's a lovely sound when the bike starts up for the first. time....makes my back shiver!