1977 KZ1000 Restomod

The cover is from a small business nearby: www.tmhg.de
They made a bunch a while back for the KZ1000 and I got the last one.

wrote:

. Not sure about the clutch cover - may be a touch too "boy racer"...

It doesn't really look boy racer to me. But it does look a bit like a front loading clothes washing machine.

I wonder what it would look like with the engine running. Based on the amount of smoke and oil that come out of my ZRX when I open the cap in the clutch cover, I feel like you might see some things that you'd prefer stay hidden.

wrote:

But it does look a bit like a front loading clothes washing machine.


 

Picked up the head today. Had the following done:
- Bead blasted and pressure washed
- Cracks repaired (ground out and laser welded)
- Tach-drive welded up (it was broken off when I got the head and still needs some sanding/shaping but I'll do that myself)
- Resurfaced
- Porting (opened up the intake valve seats and opened up the intakes to match the carb boots)
- Valve seats cut (didn't want to get the Neway's out on this build)
- New valves (machined so all the shims are at mid-range)
- One valve guide needed replacing

One of the plug threads had a helicoil in it before. It got removed so the cracks could be fixed and then replaced with a new one. 









 




Here is one of the crack repairs. The area next to the weld is still black from the welding, would have thought it would be cleaned up when the thread was tapped again. There is no real noticeable edge between the weld and the original thread though, so I guess the old thread is just a tiny bit larger (maybe due to wear?):

Make sure the bucket doesn't stick in the bore next to where the tach drive was welded.
It's common to get a bit of distortion that needs relieving when having weld repairs done near them.

Here's some more pics from the guy who did the work.
Need to check with him before I start posting his pics... 

wrote:

Make sure the bucket doesn't stick in the bore next to where the tach drive was welded.
It's common to get a bit of distortion that needs relieving when having weld repairs done near them.

The guy checked everything when he was doing the valves and said everything ran smooth, but I will double check. It was laser welded though, so shouldn't have any problems with distortion.

Laser welding didn´t create much heat. Here is a video about a crank and cam shaft bearing gallery repair.
He works presice like a dentist.

Getting back into things again...
Got the triple clamps back. Had 7.5mm taken off the bottom and another 7.5mm to countersink the nut - this is only 44mm in diameter otherwise it would have broken out the front of the clamps, meeans the stock nut doesn't fit. I made up a nut out of 6082 aluminium just to see if I could (had some round stock lying around and just got myself a small lathe). I'll either make another one out of 7075 or mill down the stock nut. The 6082 nut will be OK for setting up the geometry.
Made a holder for the cutter. Now just need to make a drill guide and I can get the holes for the shock mounts drilled. Will double-check the geomtry later today and post some numbers.

Nice job especially for using such a small lathe!  What make lathe is that one?

Rick H.

wrote:

Nice job especially for using such a small lathe!  What make lathe is that one?

Rick H.

Thanks Rick, I was pretty happy when the thread actually fit the steering stem
The lathe is a Proxxon PD250. Pretty small but big enough for most parts and sturdy enough to turn steel, as long as you have patience. I've only tried 16MnCr5 which supposed to be pretty good for turning (have no real clue about which alloys to use where - working on that...)
 

wrote:

Got the triple clamps back. Had 7.5mm taken off the bottom and another 7.5mm to countersink the nut 

Countersinking the nut is a cool detail.  Is there any risk that the top clamp might touch the tank now that it's lower?