1976 900 A4 is Next Up

Before I left town I soaked the fuel tank is apple cider vinegar and it had been sitting over a week so I wanted to get that issue behind me before I started in on the rear hub. So tank turned out great. After a trip to the quarter car wash to clean out all the gunk it is in like new condition on the inside. The outside is stripped of paint fron the front master cyclinder leaking on it so that got sanded down and shot a coat of primer on to protect it.. so that sorta out of the way I took a look at the fuel petcock.. after scraping it down to see what I'm working with I got a big surprise. The primary pickup tube is split see photo below.


Anyone have any idea how I can correct this. This is a tight budget restoration and the $80.00 or so to replace it could be better used elsewhere or later on if needed..

You can solder it and get new strainers at Mikes XS.
Steve
www.mikesxs.net/yamaha-xs650-petcock-fue...ters-pk-2-70-77.html

Well it's been a while sense my last post, thanks everyone for you help. I have the tank back from the stripping company




Well worth the $30.00 and a couple week wait. Looking for suggestions on how to remove the dent hidden under some bondo. While the tank was soaking I finished all the detail work on cleaning the carbs and acquiring the parts. Just finished the reassembly of the carbs today, tomorrow I will bench sync them and adjust float levels then finally onto the engine to see what I'm working with






I tried to pinch pennies and ending up down a dead end with the fuel petcock so I have a new on on the way. Still haven't looked into the rear wheel issue yet but after the carbs are on the I know the engine is sound ill dig into the rear wheel. Hope everyone had a great Christmas and here to a healthy new year.

Mikaw wrote: Looking for suggestions on how to remove the dent hidden under some bondo.

KZ tanks are pretty heavy gauge, so it won't be easy. I think the best sure fire way, is to spot weld a stud on the tank along with a slide hammer. You could try the freezing method with using an aerosol can of compressed air. But I had no luck with it. I even made my own tools that are used to push the dent out from inside out. But would have needed much more force than I could apply due to the heavy gauge of the metal. Maybe I could have tried to get the area I wanted to push out real hot. But probably would have ended up burning myself on the tank when using the push out tool. One method that I am about to use on my XJ550 tank (much thinner metal) is a blood pressure cuff. I plan on applying heat using an electric heat gun onto the dent outside, and inflate the cuff in the same area inside the tank. Haven't tried it yet. Others, have suggested putting water inside the tank and freezing it. But you would have to have a big enough (or room ) freezer. And I was worried that it could split the seams at the bottom of the tank. Good luck.

GregZ wrote:

Mikaw wrote:

531blackbanshee wrote: i'm curious about the spacer between the cush drive and the inner bearing???
have you had that apart yet?
leon

No I haven't, im out of town for a few days. Last minute work requirement. I did notice a wear (shinny) area around the axle on the drive side. See below

Your sprocket carrier looks to sitting in the hub a little to deep. when you pull your wheel you should this spacer between carrier and wheel hub

Hello, it's been a while but the good news is the carbs are rebuilt and mounted. The engine started up after sitting almost 27 years. No smoke and no weird sounds. So I'm moving on. I pulled the rear wheel and have all the spacers and seem to be in the correct order. All I can think is the bearing in the sprocket carrier isn't seated to the correct depth. This seams to me would allow the carrier to set deeper in the hub. Please see photos and give me your opinions. Thanks.

I can't access any of the pictures above .... ?
Oops second time around I can... what the heck..?

Took some direction from another poster and tried my hand at restoring the handle bar controls. Still need a clear coat for protection but very happy with the results

Thanks kidkawie

Anybody have direction for me on the rear hub and sprocket carrier?

Dang! Nice work on the controls. What is your process?

GrumpierGrunt wrote: Dang! Nice work on the controls. What is your process?

Was happy to find out all electrical is removable. Tagged and baged all screws and brkts, decreased with brake clean, washed with hot soap and water and a stiff scrub brush, the soaked in CLR about 2 days. Washed that off and primed and painted with VHT hi heat engine primer and roll bar paint. Then I took the method from Kidkawie on the letter infill

Plan to clear coat with SprayMax 2K clear gloss to protect

I'm still looking for input on the rear wheel bearing and spacers. I have the rim cleaned and would like to re-install in the swing arm but need to know if the bearings are seated to the correct depth.

Thanks for the help

Hello Mikaw

Here some pics of the rear wheel.
I hope it will help you to solve your problem.

Later this day i will post pictures from my rear wheel hub and bearings but first i need some sleep
after my night shift, 6:45 early in the morning now for me.

Michael