1982 GPz750 Phase II Making It more Unique.

Plug wires.
Fuel injected?
Steve

swest wrote: Plug wires.
Fuel injected?
Steve

Direct ignition and it's injected. the 171 can be anything from vacuum leak to fuel pump. The 300 can be caused by this or separate and can be the DI Cartridge, plugs or bad ground. One person I've found so far had a bad ECU.

One common issue is using a universal o2 sensor instead of the spec one.

I have a few self service yards around. One has half price Wednesday right by my work. Guess where I'll be on hump day.

Haven't had much experience with SAAB's but having bought and worked on hundreds of cars bought through the dealer auctions I can tell you usually the system to lean code is an O2 sensor issue. The problem can be finding out which one, although the code usually indicates which bank it's lean on , bank 1 or bank 2 indicating which sdie of the motor if a V6 or V8, bank 1 is where cylinder 1 is. The difficulty is knowing if it's the one before or after the cat. Usually searching the internet will get you a good answer because you can guarantee some other owner is having the same issue somewhere.

The random misfire 300 code is usually something like coils, if they have the individual coils on each plug, you get one iiffy one and for some reason I don't quite understand, which also seems to defeat the object of separate coils it interferes with the others. Normally injectors, plug issues or a bad cylinder will give a 304 code or similar the last digit meaning the cylinder that has the issue in this case 4.

When you say persistent that can be bad news as once in a blue moon you get a vehicle that despite all efforts, it refuses to allow codes to clear, hopefully you don't get one of those, but that will depend on the efforts made to fix it in the past i,e, has it done the rounds of repair places or was it just an owner with little knowledge confused by the whole thing. Good luck anyway..

redhawk4 wrote: Haven't had much experience with SAAB's but having bought and worked on hundreds of cars bought through the dealer auctions I can tell you usually the system to lean code is an O2 sensor issue. The problem can be finding out which one, although the code usually indicates which bank it's lean on , bank 1 or bank 2 indicating which sdie of the motor if a V6 or V8, bank 1 is where cylinder 1 is. The difficulty is knowing if it's the one before or after the cat. Usually searching the internet will get you a good answer because you can guarantee some other owner is having the same issue somewhere.

The random misfire 300 code is usually something like coils, if they have the individual coils on each plug, you get one iiffy one and for some reason I don't quite understand, which also seems to defeat the object of separate coils it interferes with the others. Normally injectors, plug issues or a bad cylinder will give a 304 code or similar the last digit meaning the cylinder that has the issue in this case 4.

When you say persistent that can be bad news as once in a blue moon you get a vehicle that despite all efforts, it refuses to allow codes to clear, hopefully you don't get one of those, but that will depend on the efforts made to fix it in the past i,e, has it done the rounds of repair places or was it just an owner with little knowledge confused by the whole thing. Good luck anyway..

yeah I'm going to do all the checks I can. I guess the "direct ignition cartridges" have been known to be an issue. The system on these cars are very sensitive to non spec components. Even had a guy say he had the issue after tuning up with Bosch plugs instead of the NGK OEM spec. I misrepresented the code, it was P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected. Then P0171 System Too Lean (Bank 1). It's a 4 banger Turbo so it only has one bank. I put a tank of premium in it with some fuel system cleaner then I'll reset the ECU and go from there, I doubt that will be sufficient but it's worth a try. After that the wrenches come out.

I bought it from a College kid that had it less than a month. I think he bought it thinking he was getting a steel then decided he didn't have the time to get it running right on his own with it being his only car. I ran a Carfax and the person he bought it from has had it for about a decade. I think they suddenly got the CEL got spooked by mechanic and new parts costs and used it as an excuse to replace it. Like I said my daughter wont be 16 for another 9 months so I have plenty of time to do it right and on a budget.

I found a forum, SaabCentral that seems to be a good place for info just like here. Not one of those slow moving, never get an intelligent response if you get one at all from people just trying to guess. I'm just waiting for the verification email.

I cut my teeth on a Honda CVCC. 50 vacuum lines. Finally got it worked out. No internet. :dry: Good luck on the forum. Let us know how it turns out.
Steve

A 4 banger will be much easier to diagnose, if it has those separate coils on the plugs they can be tricky, but with only 4, it will be much easier to sort than some of the V8 and V10 Fords I've worked on, where you have to resort to buying one new coil, or taking one form another truck you know to be good, replace one of the coils and the spark plug, then keep repeating swapping a known good coil and a new plug until you find the problem coil. I have a theory that because people don't change their spark plugs anymore, that as they wear and the gap get's large at high mileages it does something to mess up those coils, on the Ford trucks anyway. Changing the coil and the plug was the only way to eliminate the problem on any particular cylinder. On those trucks some of them are a buggers to get at, so you only want to go in there once. Sometimes we'd remove plug, check compression, fit new plug, new coil, see if problem is cured, if it was a misfire you could feel, then move to the next cylinder. Once in a while we'd be unlucky and get a bad cylinder, but those usually gave a cylinder specific code. I also think a lot of the trucks we bought at auction had problems because they'd wash the engines which would then get wet in the coil/plug boot which would then mess up 1 or sometimes 2 of those coils, because generally in normal operation they were very reliable, so there's no way you could get this many problems if you picked 10 trucks at random off the street. Some that ran really badly, could be dried out and run just fine without any coil problems. Best of luck getting it sorted.

Thanks, I'm going to check my plugs first thing.

Here's the thread www.saabcentral.com/forums/forumdisplay....topics/557546?page=2 .

Feel free to follow along. Since this thread should be about my bike I'll leave it there. If you have anymore tips go ahead and PM or email me.

You just have to love the standard fix!

Remove the battery cable for 15 sec!, make you think Microsoft had a office in Trollhättan. (SAAB City) :whistle:

/A

GPzMOD750 wrote:
Feel free to follow along. Since this thread should be about my bike I'll leave it there. If you have anymore tips go ahead and PM or email me.

Yes why are we talking about Saabs? I'm not even going to mention the Pontiac Grand Am that I'm fixing to help someone out, who's down on their luck at the moment, it's had all sorts of problems - Oh crap I just did

Anyway talking of Kawasaki GPz750's . . . . . . .

Just offering helpful suggestions on his thread. I welcome them on mine.
Steve

Check the year and model on that Saab. They put out real sh*& for a lot of years in the 90-2000 years. 900s are cool looking but I have witnessed 3+ needed expensive repair after 60k. All motor problems. R

My boss had a Saab Turbo he would rave about... as I was driving him to or from the Saab shop. No thanks.
Actually had a 1973 Sonnet in HS until poverty and the San Diego PD conspired to take it away from me