New Gold Dream, Gpz750A1 -83

You can get mini filters at a dirt bike shop or lawn mower shop.
Steve

I remember a few on here wrapping one in a blanket and running it in a clothes dryer but make sure the blanket is sealed up very well and thick ..... I'd be worried about it getting banged up.

If you have limited room on your balcony and want to remain eco-friendly in rust removal of your fuel tank; why not try electrolysis?
My KZombie has a pretty nasty tank and this is the method I was going to try.
Your time will depend on your tank's rust situation but the materials investment is cheap assuming you have motorcycle battery and a battery charger or battery tender.
Here's a video demonstrating it, however, this example does not use the battery, just the battery charger. Some chargers won't work and need you to connect your battery in parallel to the tank and anode (basically charger's positive to battery (+) then to sacrificial anode and charger's negative to battery (-) then to tank steel.

Check it out:


I'll be doing this myself, as I said on KZombie's big old rusty tank this summer.

Ok @Wrenchmonkey you convinced me, I will try the Sodium Carbonate electrolysis method.
Went to the hardware store and picked up laaarge under bed storage box that the tank can sit in, so that I will not be spilling Sodium wash on the neighbor below. Sodium carbonate and a roll of iron fixing iron wire and I will be all set up to getting going tomorrow.



Isn’t an irony that when I bought the new battery the other week, I bought a new “smart” charger and tossed my old “stupid” charger in the bin. Thinking why shall I keep this! :blink:

Looking forward to see if this will cure it.
@Steve I have picked up some fuel filter, but as the petcock got jammed there I thought better trying to fix it up as I ordered a refurbish kit for the petcock. Thinking there is no use in buying new stuff and then sending a known problem in to it. :silly:

Will keep you posted.
/A

The electrolysis method works like a charm. I rescued my XS650 tank that I was sure was a goner. Looks brand new inside.
After the electrolysis I used a rust remover (evapo rust? ) and let it soak for a day.

And we are off. :woohoo: :woohoo:

I just tossed my old ”stupid” charger the other day so I am going for the battery with a new smart charger connected.



Curious as anything I am looking forward to the result.

/A

It really works but it took about a week until the tank was clean and of course I learned stuff on the way.

1. Duct tape is not sufficient to keep the fluid in the tank. One need to fabricate washers to cover the petcock and fuel level indicator openings with. Next time I will use an old nylon cutting board to close to openings with.

2. You need to fabricate at least two offer anodes that you can switch between. I made mine of spray can tops, 3mm iron wire that insulated with crimp tube at the top, so it didn’t short against the filler hole.



3. The shape of a ZX750A tank requires that you flip the tank upside down at the end in order to get the rust that will build up at the top as it’s practically impossible to fill the tank to 100% and whatever that is not covered with the electrolyte will rust like an Italian car.

So if you suffer from a rusted tank, this is the way to go, cheaper and faster than vinegar. Hell of a lot cheaper than phosphoric acid (but slower) and absolutely harmlessly compared with hydrochloric acid (fastest and not suitable for a balcony derusting).

After I got the tank back on the bike it’s only been misery for the last two weeks. Nessism is in many ways right, opening up a 33 year old bike without having all consumable parts at hand is STUPID! :blush: :blush:

I renovated my petcock as it was leaking, not having a new o-ring and nylon washers fitting it back to the tank was a bad idea . . . . . . . . . . two weeks fuel dripping from the tank . . .

Not having ALL o-rings and new float needles for the carbs, meant major fuel overflow filling the intake manifold with fuel and spilling fuel everywhere making Exon Valdez look like little league, do I need to say at the least suitable time . . . . . twice . . . .

It really gave me the shits as I was worried I would fill the crank case and run down a perfectly good stock engine.

But finally today.

All tank gaskets changed, all carb o-rings swapped, new float needles, needles seats polished with the help of ear-tops and ceramic stove top cleaner, float levels set, oil and filter change and it runs without leaving fuel trails.

I bought the bike to have as a runner this summer and so far it has not really delivered, I sincerely hope that the sweeting head gasket will do with a re-torque keeping its shit together this summer so I can ride and then rebuild the head when winter comes.

/A

After work today I set out to see if I have my overflowing carbs and leaking petcock under control, so I set of to my buddy Erik for a 2xGpz 750 tour.

We had a fab time sweeping through the country roads of Roslagen and stopped for a burger at Östanå 59°32’54 N 18°34’28 E





Petcock? Check! It still flow about 4 cl after the vacuum is gone but then it’s shut.
Carbs didn’t overflow and petcock seal doesn’t smell of gas, check!

But I am suffering from an oil leak on the front of the engine, :pinch: I was just about to order a new heads gasket when I saw that the oil cooler hoses are soaked as well. If it is the head gasket sweating, there is no way that oil should reach the hoses when driving and to the point that they get soaked?

Guys what are your take? Sound like a sweet idea to press on new hoses before lifting the head?

/A

either steam clean all the oil off or use some chemicals to remove the oil.
so it's dry.
then run it and make sure where the oil is coming from and then decide what to do to remedy it.

leon

I am seriously thinking about renaming this thread to “The Ebola bike” as it keeps seeping fluids from all openings and even through its bare skin. Hope that I have been able to stop the infection now . . . .

I took a gamble and took my oil cooler to the local hydraulic work shop. They were more than helpful when they heard what it was for.

The workshop guy said
- a Gpz 750! That was I was dreaming for when I was riding my 50cc moped when I was fifteen.

Then he asked for some extra time as they were running short in the shop. Not a biggi for me as there was rain in the forecast for the next couple of days.

Went back yesterday and picked the cooler up with new hoses fitted, for 403:- SEK approx. 45 USD.



As far I can see it’s an example of good workmanship considering the welded, used once, throwaway fittings Kawasaki used on the oil lines.



Right now just hoping the bike will deliver as the summer runner I hoped for it to be, then it might just get some of these goodies that I wound on Webike



But now the cooler is back on and I can’t see any oil sweat on the hoses anymore, hard to tell about the cylinder head as the entire engine is glistering since the oil shower last Wednesday.



Now I just want it to deliver so “I can ride the piss out of it” as Steve so poetically writes and take me to work tomorrow. I need to get back home early tomorrow as we Swedes ae gearing up for our midsummer party this weekend.

Nope. No fika this weekend.

/A

Nice going! Those hoses are NICE! I like those AN fitting adapters too!

Where did you read where I said don't open up a 30 year old bike without proper commitment? That sounds like something I would say, I just don't remember saying it around here.

Close but no cigar!

Swapping out the oil cooler hoses stopped the worst flow, but a thorough degreasing of the cylinder head reviled that the sweating from the cylinder head is a little bit worse than just a sweat. :huh:

Do I have to tell you that all Swedish bike shops are out of top end kits . . . . . :pinch: so I am back to my usual task tracking parcels through Europe.

Nessism, I guess that I have been reading between the lines, but I think that the statement

- Don't open up a 30 year old bike without proper commitment?

belonged to 650ED and that yours would be

- Don't open up a 30 year old bike without all the proper OEM parts at hand?

Never the less your message has come through to me and I have learned by my mistakes. The head is not coming off without all the gaskets, o-rings, kawabond, FSM and tools at hand.

I am gambling hard on that the cam chain tensioner parts will be ok. . . . . . . and that the two M8x43 bolts in the cam chain tunnel will not snap on my as they did the last time I swapped one of these gaskets some thirty years ago. :whistle:

/A