Phoenix Fighter

swest wrote: I assumed you did because you're not a cheap Ba**ard. :lol:
Steve

I hesitated because the bike only had 25K on it and I did not want to splint the cases and was not sure about using a split chain. I didn't have any issues like this prior to the rebuild.

les holt wrote: I thought a sight like this from my past would have been evidence enough to convince any guy to put a new chain in!

Attachment broketimingchain.jpg not found

Les

Ouch! Thanks for the motivation Les.

broke that on the flag relay! sent you a pm,

Les

I used the one out of the 750 Z2. It was a low mile wreck. That was in 87. Still useable but I'm glad I bought a HD one from Z1E. It doesn't look like the ones listed so I think I got a standard one instead. When I buy my crank I'll buy one from APE.
Steve

Turns out nothing went horribly wrong with the timing chain. I did not tighten the crank bolt used for my C5 ignition so the timing disc spun loose. I put in the APE manual tensioner any way. My timing chain was at 156mm so I left it alone as service limit is 157 and standard is 155.5-155.7.

I drained the oil and will be inspecting the clutch basket this morning. What am I supposed to keep the clutch from slipping?

Being it's been sitting, it might just be some of the plates are stuck together. As suggested you might want to smooth out rough spots on the inner aluminum part of the basket. I have two extra if you need one. Check the spring length and if they sit square too. I have stock ones and never had any problems with them. Being you're going hydrolik I guess APE ones won't be a issue.
Steve

swest wrote: Being it's been sitting, it might just be some of the plates are stuck together. As suggested you might want to smooth out rough spots on the inner aluminum part of the basket. I have two extra if you need one. Check the spring length and if they sit square too. I have stock ones and never had any problems with them. Being you're going hydrolik I guess APE ones won't be a issue.
Steve

Steve
IF any clutch plates were STUCK together the clutch would NOT RELEASE.

Jon has a problem with the clutch SLIPPING not fused together and locked up.

Jon, Try readjusting the clutch first before tearing it down.
Then if that is not a adjustment issue tear it down and inspect all components.
Take some pics at that time and we will find a solution for you
Dave

I'd make sure your hydraulic setup is totally relaxing on the pusher rod. I'd think that even the slightest pressure may influence it's performance and or at the least premature wear.

Les

The springs are brand new, as well as the friction discs. The springs are EBC and 10% heavier than stock. The friction discs, I must have been tight on money at the time as they are not name brand. Once I get the hydraulic clutch working correctly I will upgrade to APE. I am going to pull it all apart, clean everything up and put Lucas 20-50 wet clutch oil in her and take her for another ride. fingers crossed.

kaw-a-holic wrote: The springs are brand new, as well as the friction discs. The springs are EBC and 10% heavier than stock. The friction discs, I must have been tight on money at the time as they are not name brand. Once I get the hydraulic clutch working correctly I will upgrade to APE. I am going to pull it all apart, clean everything up and put Lucas 20-50 wet clutch oil in her and take her for another ride. fingers crossed.

Agreed Les. I have it mounted where the Slave cylinder is % collapsed and there is just enough pressure to on the push rod to keep it taught.

You need to put additional clearance in it. As clutch wears even the slightest you'll be stoping the clutch from fully engaging. I'd do the math and figure the difference between new to service specs on a clutch pack and have at least that amount built into it.

Les

Jon, I thought you were going back to the cable for a while.
Steve