Phoenix Fighter

I think I found a proper resolution to the vacuum port issue on my 33mm CR Specials. Sudco sells interchangeable spigots and Dime City Cycles sells 5mm threaded brass vacuum ports. Z1 sells J model carb holders that are 34mm Carb bore size,40mm carb spigot diameter, 25mm depth. The CRS spigots I am looking at are 33mm I.D. carb side, 46mm total length and 32.5mm I.D,. carb holder side. Taking into account the threaded length on existing spigots of 14mm and the carb holder depth of 25mm leaves me 7mm of exposed spigot to drill and tap without carb boot interference. Of course I will do a write up on how it all goes. I have included some reference material below for anyone looking to do the same thing.
5mm brass threaded vacuum ports
CR Special mounting adapters (Spigots) pg1
CR Special mounting adapters (Spigots) pg2
Carb Holders (4) KZ1000/1100 34 rubber

I like the first one and the carb boots are a great deal. I think I paid $40+ for each at Kawasaki.
Steve

It's a little chilly in the garage this week and since I live in AZ I don't have a heater or a stove in there, so I did some inside work today.

Good news on my used 1075 cylinder, machine shop got most of the scratch out and he said it was so small and so close to the top that it would not compromise compression or cause oil burning. Cylinder walls are straight and cylinder to piston clearance is on the tight side of service limits. I got really lucky considering everything was used.
Also got my new carb spigots and intake boots. Took a picture of the short ones that were on the caebs when i got them. I have plenty of room to drill and tap for vacuum ports.
I am thinking of porting the head just a bit so I can get a smooth transition. I just want to take that little bit of material out and blend it in a bit. I'm not talking a full port and polish.
As always comments are welcomed.

Glad to hear about your cylinder. So that's what you meant by spigot. Drill into them. I opened my intakes so there wouldn't be a step and cause a vortex to interrupt air/fuel flow. I just wish I could have built up around the outside for more mating surface. Not even 1/4 inch to seal. Just had a vacuum leak there and did what I tell everyone not to do. I used Permatex to seal them. It worked.
Steve

swest wrote: Glad to hear about your cylinder. So that's what you meant by spigot. Drill into them. I opened my intakes so there wouldn't be a step and cause a vortex to interrupt air/fuel flow. I just wish I could have built up around the outside for more mating surface. Not even 1/4 inch to seal. Just had a vacuum leak there and did what I tell everyone not to do. I used Permatex to seal them. It worked.
Steve

How far in did you go to blend it? I was thinking a 1/2"-3/4" should do it.

Thought I would post a sneak peek. Its just a rough in so I could get some measurements for my custom air intake.



Hope you guys like it, still need to clean the carbs up a bit.

kaw-a-holic wrote:

swest wrote: Glad to hear about your cylinder. So that's what you meant by spigot. Drill into them. I opened my intakes so there wouldn't be a step and cause a vortex to interrupt air/fuel flow. I just wish I could have built up around the outside for more mating surface. Not even 1/4 inch to seal. Just had a vacuum leak there and did what I tell everyone not to do. I used Permatex to seal them. It worked.
Steve

How far in did you go to blend it? I was thinking a 1/2"-3/4" should do it.

I only went in 1/4 inch. Didn't know if I would keep them. I wouldn't hog out too much.
Steve

kaw-a-holic wrote: Thought I would post a sneak peek. Its just a rough in so I could get some measurements for my custom air intake.

Hope you guys like it, still need to clean the carbs up a bit.

Air box?

bike looking good...coming along.
what kind of rear sets are those?
and i would make some kind of bracket from carbs to frame so to hold the carbs straight. rubber boots over time hang with the heat of the engine and weight .

spdygon wrote: bike looking good...coming along.
what kind of rear sets are those?
and i would make some kind of bracket from carbs to frame so to hold the carbs straight. rubber boots over time hang with the heat of the engine and weight .

Yes, that is what I had to do with my VM26s. This will be a different situation. The idea is to use the trapezoid shaped area ,between engine area and under seat area, to frame in a filter between to pieces of aluminum. The engine side will have 4 holes the with header pipe that goes to each carb inlet. The under seat side will be open but with mesh material to hold the filter element in place. So basically a intake header? Why? Why not? I don't have a an air box. The problem with pods is that the outside ones lean out the faster you go down the road. I figured if I have intake runners to the carbs I can ensure constant velocity to each carb.

As for the rear sets those are Les Holt prototypes. They work very well and look nice. Currently he has been away from his machining equipment so production is slow. He is a member here and you can send him a PM. Not sure how often he checks in these days. I talked to him via email before Christmas if he does not respond to PM let me send me a PM with your email address in it and I will forward him your contact info.

I don't hang out here much at all right now, we have moved and the shop is bout 40 mile round trip away. It will be moved by spring but I don't spend much time thinking about it. Close family illness has my first priority, sorry.

les holt

Miss you already. Prayers to you and yours.
---relay rider #53