KZR750R1

Good catch Derek. Suppose the heat involved could warp the cover if welded.

Still holding up.

Gives me an idea for the tail repair.

Doing some part number comparisons via the Kawasaki website.

The 83 KZ750-L3 and the 82 KZ750R1 share the same yoke and leg part numbers. But there are differences in the parts between the two.
Internal, external legs, guts Triple tree.Look the same in each parts diagram.
The upper clap of the triple tree and Spring caps are not the same but share a PN?

I'm really interested in placing a set of super bike bars. The 82 bars and hardware are a PITA.

PN 44039 could be the part I'm looking for. Upper triple clamp for the KZ750-L3.
Are the fork tubes and Triple Tree the same between the two bikes except for the noticeable differences on the parts diagram?

Probably a rare bird.

kzr750r1 wrote:

...I'm really interested in placing a set of super bike bars. The 82 bars and hardware are a PITA...

amen!

Came across these 24mm from a friend that is looking to off them...How much would a clean set of VM24 cost these days?

Sale could help me with restore cost of the BS34 I have and take off the RS, for now. Well see of course.

The RS are fine on the open road and freeway. In town it's a mess. Can go two directions, change the carbs to match the motor tune... Or Build a motor to match the carbs.

Path of least resistance is?

24's

Pic of the BS34...

Hi Sean,

The problem with those RS carbs is the fact that you cannot change the slope of the CO trace for a given throttle position. You can only move it up or down in its entirety. 30% open throttle and up were very, very lean at 4K rpm and below before we removed the spacers (didn't retest at other than WOT, so can't be sure what's happening now, but should be similar). The current setup could be improved somewhat with custom needles, as 30% open throttle was a bit lean, and 60% open throttle was a bit rich (no off the shelf needles exist to address this). More displacement is likely to help, but what you are experiencing is an inherent problem with slide carbs in general. To eliminate drivability issues at larger throttle openings combined with lower rpm, slide carbs have to use a smaller bore, which eliminates the advantages at high rpm/large throttle openings.

I definitely recommend going to CV carbs, but I would use Keihin CVKD32's with TPS from a ZR7. They are a modern flat slide design and the TPS would allow us to set up a 3D ignition map. I would also consider putting an airbox back on.

Regards,

Derek

Sean,

For your top clamp, 44039-1074 should do the trick. Unfortunately disco from Kawasaki. Should I try to find a used one for you?

Regards,

Derek

Hey Derek.

At this point I'm on the fence on a new carb set.

Still think the BS would be a clean stopgap for my current application.

Using ZR setup means more changes beyond the carbs that I'm not up for at the moment. Adding that sensor means I need a ignition box that knows what to do with it...

Not really interested in dropping the dyna at the moment.

Looking at the path of least resistance.

i can never win any on ebay, keep getting out bid:angry:

a site called mikesxs has some piggy backs for a decent price don't know how good they are but look ok for the money

Thanks, not sure what your referencing as piggy backs?

kzr750r1 wrote:

Hey Derek.

At this point I'm on the fence on a new carb set.

Still think the BS would be a clean stopgap for my current application.

Using ZR setup means more changes beyond the carbs that I'm not up for at the moment. Adding that sensor means I need a ignition box that knows what to do with it...

Not really interested in dropping the dyna at the moment.

Looking at the path of least resistance.

Well, there is nothing that says you have to immediately go to an ignition box with a TPS input. The only thing that will mean, is that if you have a curve that is correct for full throttle, then smaller throttle openings will be less advanced than optimum (which is no different than what you have now). Are you planning on reinstalling an airbox? If so, then it would be worth comparing the bellmouth ODs, spigot ODs and carb body lengths to see if any adapting is necessary for the CVKs. I would also hate to see you spend time/money on tuning a set of carbs that you ultimately don't intend to keep (If you are considering the BS carbs as more of a permanent solution, then of course that's another story). Especially because the only aftermarket needles available for the BS carbs are from DynoJet (only one available, typically the wrong shape), whereas Factory Pro has a ton of different needles available to suit the CVK carbs, and they will make more if what they have is proven not to work right in your application. Of course, you could get lucky and find that the stock BS needles or the DynoJet BS needles are workable.

Regards,

Derek