TOPIC:

Tmiron wrote: Hmm, you switched the two wires on the Digital Flasher Relay? I tried that, but I'll try it again when I leave work

That's pretty much what I did. seems to work fine.

I did that with mine. One way it works, the other way it doesn't.
Steve

No luck on switching the wires on the digital flasher relay....

ok, I'm stuck. I tried a 3 prong with the 3rd prong grounded. Still only works when the "Tail" fuse is out, but the I lose my tail light.

Any more ideas?

Well, I guess it's going to be time to start checking things with a meter. Do you have a voltmeter?

Put the tail light fuse in, and measure the voltage on the flasher. That is, put the meter's black lead on the battery negative post, and the red lead on the flasher's 12v input. Turn the ignition on. What do you get?

Tmiron wrote: I put new turn signals on my bike and replaced the relay with a digital one. Everything worked fine. Then the turn signals stopped working (they are on solid all the time but not blinking) so I checked the fuse and it was blown. No problem, I get a new fuse and out it in. Still nothing, but the the bike is ridable so I ignore t for a week. Last night I decided to tackle it and tried taking out the fuse.... AND THEY STARTED BLINKING!?..... but my tail light didn't work.

WTF? Black Magic?

Yep. It's PFM - Pure F'in Magic. You cannot hide your Black Hat from the great gawds of Kawasaki.

Looks like when you put in your "new turn signals" and digital relay, you put in something else, like a criss-crossed wire or an interrupted ground. Personally, I'd have gone with the lost ground/earth BUT that would not typically cause a fuse to blow, just cause a light to stop working.
You will need a multi-meter to resolve this and I'd like to see some pictures of your installation personally.

The flip-flopping of the signal relay leads is dependent on the relay itself. You will notice that most flasher relays have an "X" and "L" stamped by the terminals where "X" is your 12vdc supply (brown wire according to diagram you supplied) and "L" is the Load, which is the light bulb(s) and that would be the orange wire.
You shouldn't need a 3 pronged flasher relay. A basic, simple 2 prong, dumb flasher (ie: not made specifically for LED lighting) unless you changed absolutely every signal light to LED. That is, you can add LED lights to a flashing circuit so long as it has other incandescent light bulbs already present (fronts - LED, backs - normal bulbs).

I have a question - When your fuse is blown/out, your signal lights are working; correct? Does your rear brake work too?

With the fuse out (and flashers working) I get an alternating voltage between 7 and 10 volts. With the fuse in (flashers not working) I get 0.

Brake light is working 100% of the time. Flashers are working with 2 prong relay only when "tail" fuse is removed. I must have crossed a wire int he headlight or shorted it somewhere.

I am stumped on this one man. I can usually noodle out the problem given enough time and a good wiring diagram but for the life of me I can't see how this situation can occur if everything is as shown in the diagram.

The only thing that makes sense is - as you said - a wire has been crossed.
Looking at the wiring diagram you provide here (a Canadian model?), you can see that the fuse - has a BROWN/WHITE input wire and a RED/BLUE output wire - goes from fuse on R/B wire toward the key switch BUT branches off to the front signal stem lights before it goes into the key switch. This would be the most likely place to find the crossed-up wires and it would appear to be the BLUE wires in the front of the bike (typically located behind the headlamp, inside the bucket).

What's interesting is your brake light (specifically the BRAKE element and not the tail light in general) uses a BLUE wire also and up in the front, near the headlamp is your front hydraulic brake switch that will have a blue wire too.

Hmmm... Still puzzles me but I'm sure you can find the culprit. It may just be a wire has lost some of it's insulation and is rubbing against the bike's body, being grounded and shorting and blowing the fuse. Like that's never happened before

So with the tail light fuse in, you get 0v on the brown wire at the flasher. That brown also powers the horn. Does the horn work with fuse in?

The brake light is on all the time, (with ignition on, and fuse in)?

wrenchmonkey wrote: (a Canadian model?)

It's a US / Canadian Model. The only difference is that the headlight is on all the time, instead of having a switch to turn it off

loudhvx wrote: So with the tail light fuse in, you get 0v on the brown wire at the flasher. That brown also powers the horn. Does the horn work with fuse in?

The brake light is on all the time, (with ignition on, and fuse in)?

I'll try the horn tonight when I get home... Haven't had a need to use it.

The brake light is working correctly 100% of the time. Meaning it comes on and off when I use the brakes, not that it's on all of the time.