TOPIC:

kzdcw wrote: . . . everything correct but again "F" mark not lining up correctly with pointer? That's why I thought that maybe widening the slotting adjustments for the timing plates or back plate would allow for more adjustment of the heel of points to get closer to the ignition advancer raised portion on the cam lobe.

There's something different between the assembly at hand and the stock assembly when the bike was new (when the F-mark was presumably aligning as it's supposed to, and within allowance provided by the slots).

I would focus on returning the existing assembly to an as-new condition, including the stock 3-screw plate slot movement allowances. And would not resort to elongating the adjustment slots.

Perhaps consider replacing the assembly:



Or installing Dyna-S ignition, and coils, and Dyna solid core plug wires. All listed at Z1E.

Meanwhile, hoping to see the current issue get resolved so it won't remain a mystery and also be helpful to others with the same issue.

BTW, another method besides the analog meter to determine the exact moment when the contacts separate, is to wire a 12 volt bulb though the contacts so it's lit when the contacts are closed and goes out when the contacts separate.

Good Fortune!

A picture of the existing assembly could be helpful, showing position of slots under the 2 "timing" screws left-side, showing position of slots under the 2 "timing" screws right-side, and position of slots under the 3 mounting plate screws.

Am not positive, but the advancer with 005 seems to be correct for the 1977 KZ1000.

Is it the correct rotor for the bike at hand -- 1977 KZ1000?

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Perhaps I should look for another Points Plate Assembly or even an Ignition Advancer? Though these 2 are the stock ones that came with the bike.

Does anyone know how to get a hold of Brian@KZ10006 ?

Am uncertain about whether it matters in the issue at hand, but are the idle rubber stops on the weight ends missing?





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Patton, Both rubber stops there on the advancer. I have an extra points plate and a set of used points. I was thinking of widening the adjustable timing slots and see if that will help the "F" mark come into alignment?

I don't see how that can be the right spark advance then.
Steve

kzdcw wrote: Patton, Both rubber stops there on the advancer. I have an extra points plate and a set of used points. I was thinking of widening the adjustable timing slots and see if that will help the "F" mark come into alignment?

extra points plate -- is this the mounting/backing plate with three slots?
If so, could install it with the set of used points to see whether the F-mark will align as it's supposed to with engine not running.

I'm not a fan of elongating the slots on the stock mounting plate, because it's not resolving the basic problem of what's different now between the existing assembly and the assembly when it was new.

I would persist toward replication of an as-new assembly.

Static timing is not a substitute for dynamic timing.
Static timing is to get the ignition timing close enough for the engine to start and run, so that dynamic timing may be performed.

Until dynamic (engine running) timing with a timing light (or dwell meter), there will always be the question of how close to perfect or how far from perfect the ignition timing actually is as resulting from the static timing procedure, regardless of stock slots or elongated slots or any other static timing permutations.

I suspect a timing light may be available as a free loan from Auto-Zone or other local automotive parts supplier.

If slot elongation actually permitted the F-mark to align in a static timing exercise, the subsequent dynamic timing would be even more important to verify and confirm the actual timing when the engine is running.

Good Fortune!

Also... and adding to this if not covered in enough detail... keep in mind that each set of points can be advanced or retarded on their respective mounting plates regardless of gap. Those two points plates are mounted to the "stator plate", which can move the timing all over the place.
As previously mentioned a bunch of times, when set correctly, changing or setting the points "gap" has nothing to do with where those plugs fire with respect to the crank rotation. Increasing or decreasing the gap does change when the engine fires but for all the wrong reasons.... stick to that magic number of about .014" gap.
And, I think you know it, those two adjustable points plates are mounted to the single "stator" adjustable backing plate.
The entire rear "stator" plate can be loosened to advance or retard both the points at the same time, with respect to the cam rotation.
So you might have both smaller points plates set too far off and the actual mounting plate can not be moved far enough to bring them in.

I quit using an ohm meter for this years ago and instead got myself a little 12v bulb and soldered two 12" wires on it with alligator clips.
With the ignition on run, kill switch in run.... try this: TAKE THE SPARK PLUGS OUT but leave them connected to their respective plug wires.
One clip to chassis case ground and one clip to the spring of the points you are checking.
Turn the crank to the quite a few degrees of rotation before that F mark,
Now slowly turn the crank and see where the light actually flickers on with respect to that F mark.
When the light bulb flickers on.. spark plugs fire!
This will at least give you an idea of what is happen with respect to the points opening and when those are firing with respect to TDC and the F mark... etc

Turn the engine back to F.
Loosen the points plate you are working on and wiggle it back and forth to move the rub block into or away from the cam lobe. Light com on and off...etc, Yes No?
When the light just flickers, that set of points are just open. That coil and two plugs are going to fire.
If you can not get it to go at the right spot then you should recenter the points plate and go to the "stator" mounting plate and move the entire points assembly back and forth to find it.
If you can not get it... there is something unrelated to what you are trying to do that is wrong.

I'd like to see a pic of the advancer he is working with.
Steve

kzdcw wrote: . . . the gap is correct even after rotating crank clockwise several times. Have not touched point gap adjustment again.

So on to Static Timing adjustment. Set 1&4 at "F" mark with pointer. Points don't open until almost #1 mark on ignition advancer plate with timing adjustment plates ( 2 screws ) adjusted all the way in the slot to get the heels of the points touching the ignition advancer raised lobe portion. I even adjusted the back plate ( 3 screws ) at max too to get as close to the heels of the points. Points 2 & 3 has about the same results. . . there's No Way at the "F" mark on either points that they will open with all the adjustments at the points timing plates or back plate set at max. . . .

Where the above is true, the assembly at hand does not replicate the stock as-new assembly.
Would suspect that some component part is either worn or damaged, or is the wrong part for the engine at hand.

Are the frame and serial numbers on the chassis and engine consistent with the manufacturing data as shown by zedder? Older model engines had different advancers.

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The locating pins are in slightly different places.
Pic?
Steve

Were you ever able to figure it out? Looks like I have the same issue. Will be taking apart the cam lobe assembly this weekend ot make sure everything is installed properly.