TOPIC:

Going to order some smaller jets, just want to make sure I get the right ones.
Should be these for the pilots:
www.jetsrus.com/a_jets_by_carburetor_typ...i_N151.067_pilot.htm

and these are the mains?
www.jetsrus.com/a_jets_by_carburetor_typ...main_Large_round.htm

Given that I should need smaller than 37.5 pilot and 120 main, should I just order a set of each going two sizes down (117.5 & 115 main and 35 & 32.5 pilot) or might that not be enough given how far out I had to turn pilot screw just to get it to barely idle?

If all else, anyone in the AZ valley want to come help me tackle this thing? I'll provide the beer!

I'm still stuck on fuel coming out the tail pipe. Did you do a compression check? If no gauge you can put your thumb over the spark plug hole and if you can keep it there, no chirps or anything, , that's your problem.
We had a saying.
Jack up the head light and replace the motorcycle.
Just joking
Steve

I did something similar to that, crank spun easier by hand with the plugs out.

Use the starter.

I may check autozone, i believe they rent compression testers. I should at least read 95+ PSI correct?

And when I saw the fuel from the exhaust, it was one drip on the cement below the joint between the header and the canister pipe, and the joint itself was a bit wet; i was able to wipe my finger on it, get wet and smell fuel. Sounds like a bad gearhead porno xD Ok, so getting back to the whole one-at-a-time thing you've been promoting during this thread, what is the order in which you suggest I go? Compression, timing, spark, fuel? Since each item depends on the one prior to it, that would be the most logical sense to me. Although mechanical and electrical timing are two separate stories, perhaps should be, mechanical timing, compression, elecrical timing, spark, fuel? Is there a way to test my coils to see if they are performing correcting?

Sounds like you have the order right. The compression test was to see if one cylinder is dead thus the fuel. Spark, plugs on top of the engine touching a bolt. Good spark? move on. You need a good battery or forget it.
Good night
Steve

Brand spankin new battery, even jumped it to my car when it was dying(which btw also has a new battery, damn subs need some CCA). Checked spark on the plug by pulling them, setting them on a nice clean spot on the motor. Spark looked OK, but honeslty I'm not sure what I'm looking for. It went Zap and in a timely fashion. Looked blue-ish I guess. Would checkin the resistance of the coil be an indicator of failure? Looking at Z1's site there is 3ohm and 1.5ohm coils, if say I check resistance across mine and its 5ohm or worse, would that indicate failure? I feel like such a newbie, but I've been spoiled with working motors with most of my life--- aside from my rotary RX-7s but that's a different beast indeed.

Ignition -- Blue spark on plugs indicates that the ignition system is probably okay.

Lean condition -- An air leak due to worn carb holders, loose clamps, etc., might explain the lean condition, as could imperfectly cleaned carbs, or too low fuel levels, or some other yet undetermined reason.

Compression --
A leak-down test should give a good idea as to overall condition of the engine's top end.

Air pressure is injected through the spark plug hole to pressurize the combustion chamber.

Can perform a poor man's leak down test by introducing compressed air into a spark plug hole and listening to where it escapes from the combustion clamber. This may be done at TDC or any other cam positions where both valves are fully closed. Top dead center (TDC) is when the piston is at its highest position. An easy way to tell TDC is by alignment of the T mark with the case mark when viewed through the timing window.

May introduce a spurt of compressed air by using a rubber cone-tip blow gun (rubber air nozzle) held into the spark plug hole. And of course keep holding it in position to keep air from coming back out the spark plug hole while listening for escaping air at other places. The air compressor should not be running while listening because the noise will likely drown out any sound of escaping air. Or just use a portable compressed air tank.

Air heard escaping from exhaust port indicates exhaust valve not fully closing (perhaps too tight clearance or damaged valve or valve seat).

Air heard escaping from carb intake indicates intake valve not fully closing (perhaps too tight clearance or damaged valve or valve seat).

Air heard escaping from crankcase breather indicates loss of compression past rings into crankcase (perhaps worn piston rings or cylinders).

Air heard escaping from head gasket area indicates indicates loss of compression past head gasket (perhaps due to a blown head gasket).

A leaking valve may sometimes be resolved by adjusting the clearance to within specs.

A leaking head gasket may sometimes be resolved by torquing the head fasteners when the engine is stone cold (such as after sitting overnight).


Good Fortune!

rokit_armor wrote: Brand spankin new battery, even jumped it to my car when it was dying(which btw also has a new battery, damn subs need some CCA). .......

DO NOT try to jump start the bike from any other vehicle that has the engine running. This can very quickly damage the bike's electrical system. Ed

DITTO