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Running lean 15 Nov 2014 15:46 #653778

  • rokit_armor
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I'm pretty sure it's running WAAAAAY too lean.

Pilot screw 5 turns out, choke or any throttle kills it.



This is with no exhaust, 2 pods and 2 open carbs so I know it will run leaner than normal, but shouldn't be this bad right?

I have 120 and 37.5 jets in them now. Kit came with spare 125 and 40 jets.

Should I swap for these and see what happens?

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Running lean 15 Nov 2014 16:22 #653782

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It will be enough of a challenge to tune the CV carbs with pods, but trying to tune the carbs with 2 pods and 2 open carbs is IMHO an exercise not worth doing. Either get all four pods or (better yet) the stock air box & filter before trying to tune the carbs. Ed
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Running lean 15 Nov 2014 17:11 #653788

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I have all 4 pods, i just took two off to see if there was even fuel getting in. Pardon my ignorance, but what's a CV carb?

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Running lean 15 Nov 2014 17:39 #653790

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CV is constant velocity. The vacuum piston rising and lowering to change the cross section area of the airflow pipe works to maintain constant velocity airflow through it.

1979 KZ-750 Twin
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Running lean 15 Nov 2014 18:07 #653796

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0.o super informative vid. One thing that confuses me now, if I'm running lean, pulling the choke shouldn't make it worse, but should help on idle, correct? Stepping up the pilot jet will also help on idle as well?
Never had to dig this deep into carbs, mostly dealt with FI on cars, and all the bikes i've had the carbs worked fine.

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Running lean 16 Nov 2014 05:12 #653809

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Also, trying to adjust carbs with no exhaust is a waste of time . Atmospheric pressure will push air into the chamber from the exhaust side before the valve can close, causing a severely lean mixture. One of the functions of a well designed exhaust system is to time that event so that happens after the valve closes, thus notdiluting the incoming charge.
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Running lean 16 Nov 2014 05:34 #653811

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Check the diaphragms. There is a vent at the top rear of the carb. Lift the slide with your finger, put your thumb over the vent and watch if the slide falls slowly or stays put. If it drops quickly, start there. CV carbs adjust to altitude changes and are good for emissions. Though pods look cool, you would be better off with the air box. The exhaust back pressure has everything to do with tuning. There is a interesting video on YouTube on this subject. I think it's about S/S pipes. They showed the power curve with straight pipes verses baffles and even installed a bolt in them and got more power. It's a balanced system. Don't jump around, you'll get no where fast.
Steve

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Running lean 16 Nov 2014 05:50 #653812

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Allright, I will wait until I get the exhaust bolted on before I tune it anymore, in the mean time I will double check the diaphragms. At least I know it's firing on all four cylinders. I dont' really want to ditch the pods, but if it comes down to it I'll pick up an airbox.
thanks guys!

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Last edit: by rokit_armor.

Running lean 16 Nov 2014 06:55 #653818

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You have no pipes on it at all? That's good way to warp a valve. Cold air hitting a hot valve can warp it in a heart beat.

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Running lean 19 Dec 2014 19:54 #656478

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I pulled the carbs off to put in my 125 & 40 jets. Checked the diaphragms and they pass your test. Also checked the float levels via clear tube method and they all end up about 1-2mm below the carb body (between the body and the head of the float bowl screws). Is it possible I'm just not getting a strong enough spark to ignite the mixture at the correct air/fuel ratio? After putting in the new jets it won't fire unless I turn the pilot screws almost 9+ turns out. Would also explain why pulling the choke kills it (just more fuel to try and ignite)
When it does fire, white puffs of smoke come out, also pulled the plugs and they did seem wet after a few tries. I did not replace the coil wire spade connectors, I will try that, and clean the corresponding connections on the coils. Will also see about replacing the wires and plugs when I go to the shop tomorrow. Would rather not have to drop another $150 on a coil set, but I will if i have to. I suppose I should check the ignition and crank timing too, is there an easy way to do this without pulling too much of the motor apart?

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Last edit: by rokit_armor.

Running lean 20 Dec 2014 07:01 #656501

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Sounds to me you are going in the wrong direction. CV carbs are stingy on fuel, they're meant to be. Put the old jets back in, it ran that way, are the pipes back on? Use your timing light to see if there is a spark on each cylinder one by one. If the flashes aren't constant, start there. Check the timing. The cover is on the right side at the crank.
One thing at a time, then move on.
Steve

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Running lean 20 Dec 2014 19:47 #656587

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I'll have to pick up a cheap timing light at harbor freight, i got rid of mine years ago. I would agree that I am going in the wrong direction, there was fuel dripping from the exhaust pipe today. I'll see about maybe getting smaller jets than the ones I had on before. Also replaced the spark plugs and boots, and cleaned the coil contacts.
New exhaust looks spiffy tho

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