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I got my Kibblewhite springs on eBay along with the Doremi valves and Viton seals. You get springs only. Z1E has them and you can order them direct. I was a little dubious of the valves though. They are a little lighter than the stock ones and I should have "tipped" them for more clearance. They are working fine. I only had 5000 miles on my guides so I didn't replace them. Same with my 3 angle seat grind. I just lapped my new valves in and I'm riding the piss out of it.
In the day, balancing and Blue Printing HD stroker motors made sense being they rattle themselves apart in stock trim not to mention a radical bore and stroke.
The Kawasaki crank is surprisingly balanced from the factory. It should be checked and welded if a hot mod is planned.
Steve

Excellent -- Thanks for the info!

Carr_113 wrote: You're such a tease, Steve.

Steve

Here is an example of the level of detail required to "blueprint" and engine as the term is commonly used....

www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=34&t=138468

The term as I know it came from a mechanical trace of cylinder pressure vs crank angle. To blueprint an engine means you are re-engineering its very core operation from the ground up.... not just going crazy measuring everything. So really almost no one actually blueprints an engine, though the tem is used a lot. I did this in engineering school with a couple of combustion engines using a pressure tap at the spark plug. I did it on slant 6 Chrysler with a water injection system and a small block Ford, both engines were running on a test stand with a known torque loading.

This picture is not from what I did, just an example of what I am talking about.

Another thing I always planned on when I was dreaming about the 810 kit was ccing the heads and pistons.

All 4 checked out at 145 psi before the first start and 165 at the 600 mile mark so they must be really close to being equal so I'm glad I didn't mess with this ........ a .020 or .025 thousands cut on the head could a bumped this up but since I couldn't get slotted sprockets and didn't like the idea of degreeing them anyway I passed on this and had em do a min cut which worked out to be .004.

+1

zed1015 wrote: Anything blueprinted is just built to the original factory design specs (the blueprint) and will be pretty much to the standard as it should have come out of the factory.
A simple valve job and new guides will be plenty good enough.
As for balancing valves there is no such thing unless you mean balancing the carbs ?
You could weight match the valves but there would be no advantage as opposed to weight matching the pistons or balancing the crank for slightly smoother running.
In a std motor the whole process would mostly be a waste of time and money.

For what you said your riding style is I'd get as close to stock spring's
as you can, a standard valve job a three angle valve job would be a waste
of your money.
Use good seal's and take as little off the deck surface
as needed to clean up the head.
You DO NOT need the higher spring pressure's that aftermarket
spring will have.

Now if you plan on a hot rodded motor then the game change's.
I've got the APE .440 lift spring's in my 810cc GPZ750 motor
and shift it at 11.000 rpm's than yes you need the good spring's.

The springs are for street cams. Three angle grind is just a "clean up' and isn't much more work. It does improve flow somewhat.
I do work with an eye to the future. Always have. That's why the welded crank, etc.
Steve

zukdave wrote: a three angle valve job would be a waste
of your money..

A three angle valve cut IS standard .
Usually 30, 45 and 60 degree cuts to get the required seat width,
Anyone pushing three angle valve jobs as something special or a performance mod is talking bollocks.

Generally the three angle is also to allow a very narrow margin so that, with respect to contact pressure, the
"lbs per square inch" from valve to seat, is VERY high, thus sealing much better in high performance, high compression, high combustion pressure engines.
The trade off is that the wear is a bit higher and that perfect seal will not last as long as a proper wide margin grind, found in less performance based engines.

May want to check what is really necessary with Larry Cavanaugh ,Member here who does a lot of head work for members. And is a KZ expert vs someone who doesn't work on KZs everyday. PM him here at Larry C
Just my 2cts
Dave

Right on all counts except one. It's done as a matter of course.
Steve