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Hi Guy’s

1973 Z1900 with 5671 miles

Please check me on this as I am a first timer on adjusting the valve shims. The column on the left “ Last Checked “ is the current size shim and the clearance on each valve as it sits today and the column on the right “ New Shim Estimated Size “ is what I calculate to be the new shim size and clearance to get all valves between .10mm - .15mm of clearance. Intake on #4, I cannot get a .04mm feeler gauge in there as it is too tight, I tried a piece of .02mm aluminum foil but it was too tight. I can rotate the bucket so I know there is clearance I am guessing on the .01mm. I used the Motion Pro shim tool which was less than fun due to its small size and with a little oil on your hands just makes it a real joy to deal with. The Kawasaki tool looks a lot easier to use so I my try to find one before I change the shims out. Thanks

Pull it out and get two sizes smaller. I don't use a chart. I adjust them as I go.
Steve

Yes! those figures are correct and if the current shims are in good un worn condition then the replacement sizes should get the clearances you have calculated.
Be wary that the shims become slightly dished in the centre over time and when replaced with a new shim the clearance can still be tighter than anticipated so be prepared to go another shim size thinner if needed.
Those valves that will end up at the lower end of the scale can go another size thinner if required to .016mm.
You can actually go to 0.18mm with no problems and up to 0.20mm with high lift cams.

I have the valves dialed in and now new cam end plugs and valve cover gasket. The new cam end plugs are taller than the old ones I removed as they rise above the edge that the gasket sits on I am hoping the plugs will compress once the valve cover is on and tightened down otherwise it looks like the tall plugs will prevent the valve cover gasket from sealing between the two surfaces. Any thoughts. Thanks for your help.

I would tighten the valve cover without a gasket to seat the plugs(to prevent tearing the gasket), remove, then install the gasket.
Steve

I respectfully disagree with the "squash it down" approach......the cam end plug spaces correspond to cam caps as heads are line bored and so it follows that if cam caps are individual to each head then so must cam end plugs.

TIKI, if I were you I would make sure each end plug was individually sized by milling,sanding down the taller ones till they are flush with the top of the head. If you leave them protruding you will get an oil leak or worse crack the cam cover...........just my 2 cents

They are made to deform and make their own seat in the material.
Steve

Do NOT sand or trim the rubber end plugs.
They are meant to compress when the cam cover is fitted to ensure an oil tight seal.
If you remove any material from them they will leak and eventually blow out with crankcase pressure.

Agreed.
Steve

I stand corrected on the rubber plugs........but does that still hold true for the metal ones?

The metal ones are direct fit. No mods required. The rubber ones are meant to form in and not come out once shaped by compression. Besides the metal ones look sexy.
Steve