TOPIC:

i would just shim the valves and get it started and go from there.


thats my.02 fwiw,

leon

Every shop/garage should have a spare valve cover gasket anyway because valve checks are more common. and no more than they cost, good to get 2 at a time and save on shipping unless you periodically order parts etc. ................................Mike

Vroom-vroom!!!

If you are interested in a .pdf copy of the Factory Service Manual, PM me your email address.

Have many or any of you guys "actually" tried to change valve guide seals in these engines while on the bike?
I mean WITHOUT removing the carbs, headers, tach drive, camshafts and removing the head from the cylinder block to actually put the head on a bench to remove the valves!?
PIA!!

with the valve springs being sunk down in the head you have to have specific valve spring compressors.
such as this,
1stwebsales.com/universal-ohv-ohc-valve-...bfvykEXN8aAps58P8HAQ

then either hold the valves up with air or a rubber hose stuffed in the cylinders.
i have this seal puller but the frame rails will interfere with its use .www.goodson.com/VSP-323-Valve-Seal-Puller-VSP-323/

you can dig em off with a hook or 90degree pick or some hose pulling pliers
www.agatools.com/tool/n62-valve-stem-seal-tool/pliers
it'll be a b!+(h tho.

then you gotta figure out how to get em all pushed back into place.

i'm betting that by the time you got done you would wish you had just pulled the head.

thats my .02 fwiw,
leon

Good point about holding the valves up with air. That's how I replaced the valve guide seals on my Chevy 350 engine and it worked well. Of course, getting access to the seals was easier on that engine than on a KZ engine. Ed

If the valve seals are bad then there will be a lot of crusty carbon deposits in the head, valves and pistons. I'd rather take the head off in about an hour to clean it rather that have this glowing crap in my engine to cause more damage. My exhaust valves were seating on carbon not the seats. Cleaned and lapped the valves, lost adjustment range. Should have "tipped" the valves too.
Steve

531blackbanshee wrote: with the valve springs being sunk down in the head you have to have specific valve spring compressors.
such as this,
1stwebsales.com/universal-ohv-ohc-valve-...bfvykEXN8aAps58P8HAQ

then either hold the valves up with air or a rubber hose stuffed in the cylinders.
i have this seal puller but the frame rails will interfere with its use .www.goodson.com/VSP-323-Valve-Seal-Puller-VSP-323/

you can dig em off with a hook or 90degree pick or some hose pulling pliers
www.agatools.com/tool/n62-valve-stem-seal-tool/pliers
it'll be a b!+(h tho.

then you gotta figure out how to get em all pushed back into place.

i'm betting that by the time you got done you would wish you had just pulled the head.

thats my .02 fwiw,
leon

I agree!! Plus either way you will be buying some kind of tool to depress the valve springs to get the keepers off the stems.
So, with the head off and valves out, you get to consider lapping all the valves, or a complete valve job but at the very least, a good de-carbonization of the piston domes, valves and combustion chamber !! All win win scenarios

missionkz wrote:

531blackbanshee wrote: with the valve springs being sunk down in the head you have to have specific valve spring compressors.
such as this,
1stwebsales.com/universal-ohv-ohc-valve-...bfvykEXN8aAps58P8HAQ

then either hold the valves up with air or a rubber hose stuffed in the cylinders.
i have this seal puller but the frame rails will interfere with its use .www.goodson.com/VSP-323-Valve-Seal-Puller-VSP-323/

you can dig em off with a hook or 90degree pick or some hose pulling pliers
www.agatools.com/tool/n62-valve-stem-seal-tool/pliers
it'll be a b!+(h tho.

then you gotta figure out how to get em all pushed back into place.

i'm betting that by the time you got done you would wish you had just pulled the head.

thats my .02 fwiw,
leon

a good de-carbonization of the piston domes, valves and combustion chamber !! All win win scenarios

GM dealers sell some fluid for that. I used it once awhile ago.

So all in all should I be taking the head off and doing my best to clean everything up or should I just get the valve clearances correct and bolt everything together and see if the bike will start? thanks

If the head is on, there are no leaks, no smoking and no oil useage, adjust the valves and see how it runs.
Steve

Head is on but I have no idea if there is smoking or oil usage because I have never had it running.