Hiiiiii..I'm back. After lots of reading and looking at pictures on the web I had the title of my thread all wrong and I appologize
I came up with a nifty word combo for bobber and cafè..Bo'fè. Onto why it's the 3rd..oh boy
Hey forum, been a crazy past 3 months up until the Monday before the DGR ride last month. Normal routine getting ready to ride to the shop. I always get my bike to level ground then look into the sight glass and even lean it over to the right for a few secs to get oil over to the pump before starting...always! Then after the idle lowers its back on the side stand I have my cig and gear up. Long story short..2 miles from work, ROD KNOCK!!! and the craziest part about it was the location. Same spot on the freeway as the last two. Like no joke! It's gotta be the Bermuda straight of juju for me there? I was so PISSED! When I got to the back of the shop, it really to a lot of me to keep from just kicking the bike over or grabbing the largest hammer out the box. It really takes
A lotof BS to rile me up to the point of "I've had it". So instead, I regretfully took it out on my Arai helmet
Didnt know it could bounce that high? Im glad I have another helmet hanging on my wall. A week went by before I got back into missing my Kz, so now it's all torn down.
I've gotta figure out why this keeps happening every 3.5 months? It's not consistent to one side? So leaves me to question clearance, oil gals, pump, pressure relief valve, oil brand, oil contamination..? and whatever else I didn't list? I've plasti-gage the clearance over and over to make sure it was within tolerance of the FSM. Ran high flash solvent through all the oiling gals on the case, crank, balancer dealio and head. All flowed like a morning piss?
Going backwards real fast before this happened, I started hearing an odd like metal rattle almost like ping or valves needing an adjustment. Checked the valve clearance and those were spot on, Everything was good behind the pickup cover. Now I was freaking and did more reading. Aside from cleaning out the oil pressure relief valve, I've never did anything else to it. I removed the stock oil press switch and replaced it with a 160psi gauge (all I had at that time) until a 100 came in. Judging by the FSM as what the gauge should be reading at cold start, warm up, operating temp and riding, the valve seemed to be doing its job well. Now I was out of ideas but then thought that maybe the inside baffling of the muffler I built was giving out from cold/hot cycles, so I built another from scratch but now it's 100% rebuildable! Did the baffling different and added some stainless mesh packing to quiet it down. First ride with it and Oh my! I can hear everything! except that ping/knock/metal noise cause that was exactly the problem. My exhaust was the culprit because of the way I had a resonator placed in there.
Now it's parts hunting time..again....again. I went on ahead and got yet another crank with rods attached (if you're wondering where they're all going, it's me
)that will get plasti-gage'd when the time comes. This time around the oil pump has a lot of slop when you grab the gear and give it a wiggle. The rotary side looked just as it did the very first time I've seen it and actually had a very minimal amount of bearing leftovers in it compared to then. Went to the link provided (Thanks guys) in my post in the wanted section, but both listed the pump on BO. But now that I had a PN, I found one in UK for $106 +shipping. New oil filter cover bolt an spring, strainer screen and gasket set from Z1 should be here mid week. Now I'm in the cleaning process. After any steel type part gets cleaned, it goes into a bag with oil to prevent rust. Just broke one of the screws that hold the windage tray on the lower case and an allen plug for an oil passage on the side is stripped so that needs drilling too.
Figured since I've got the bike back down to a frame, time for the twin rotor upgrade, except I went the harder route and going bigger by using rotors and calipers from a 95 Zx11. Need to spin adapters/spacers on the lathe for the rotors as well as spacers to center the hub and machine new carries for the cals. One big thing I didn't consider was the 17mm front axle diameter of the 650 hub and my 15mm axle and forks. Looks like I still have lots of meat left to drill out the forks to 17mm. Then lace the 650 hub to my 400 ring with shiny new spokes. I'll be posting pics, good and bad in the next few days..
Next addition I was pondering since the case was split was adding a kick start. I've searched the database here as well as Google but didn't get any concrete answers. Aside from the obvious need for a 400s cover and the complete ratcheting mechanism, is it essentially a drop in deal and make sure all engages/disengages as it should?
thanks again forum!
ed