TOPIC:

When heli-coils are done properly, they are as strong or stronger than the original aluminum. The inserts are very good too but the installation kit is expensive. I've used both with great success.

swest wrote: That's 104 inch pounds.
Steve

Oops, that was cylinder nuts.

Wham bam thank you ma'am. Issue resolved.






A sneak peek of the exhaust on.




Will make a bracket that goes from the back of my rear set to the bung on the slip-on.

Where did you buy the kit and how much? Get it done Reb, I want to nominate it for BOTM.
Steve

swest wrote: Where did you buy the kit and how much? Get it done Reb, I want to nominate it for BOTM.
Steve

The kit was $40 at O'Rielly Auto Parts. It was really easy. was concerned about it working at since I couldn't use the applicator to get the Helicoil in the hole due to the shoulder. Just like you said Steve.

She is a distant beauty Steve, not sure she is worthy of BOTM. There are so many phenomenal bikes built on this site. I am building it to be a daily rider no trailer queens in my garage.

Enough chit chat I need to go get to work!

Let us be the judge on that. Time and effort counts too.
I've fixed other bolts like the pinch bolt on my top triple tree. No meat for time certs.
Good job.
Steve

fwiw here is the way i determine how to repair stripped threads.

freshly stripped= helicoil
helicoil stripped= stepped stud or timesert
timesert/stepped stud stripped=weld and remachine

hth someone,
leon

Looks right to me. It's unfortunate new bike owners make these mistakes but how is one to learn? I've done it and can again. Mistakes happen.
Steve

kaw-a-holic wrote: ... It was really easy. was concerned about it working at since I couldn't use the applicator to get the Helicoil in the hole due to the shoulder. Just like you said Steve. ...

I'm having this same concern right now myself. I have an M6 thread that I'd like to heli-coil but fine thread heli-coils are supposed to use that pre-coiler or whatever they call it. The hole is where a knock pin goes, so it's basically countersunk....can't get that tool in there. These can be wound in by hand? Is that what you guys are saying? I wanted to try it but once it's drilled, there's no turning back. You weren't able to install the heli-coil without removing the head, were you?

531blackbanshee wrote: fwiw here is the way i determine how to repair stripped threads.

freshly stripped= helicoil
helicoil stripped= stepped stud or timesert
timesert/stepped stud stripped=weld and remachine

hth someone,
leon

So whats the difference twixt a Helicoil and a Timesert?

A Helicoil is a spring-like device that threads into the hole and receives the bolt. A Time-Sert is a solid bushing that threads into the hole and receives the bolt. Here's a Helicoil (upper piece) compared to a Time-Sert (lower piece). Ed

79MKII wrote:

kaw-a-holic wrote: ... It was really easy. was concerned about it working at since I couldn't use the applicator to get the Helicoil in the hole due to the shoulder. Just like you said Steve. ...

I'm having this same concern right now myself. I have an M6 thread that I'd like to heli-coil but fine thread heli-coils are supposed to use that pre-coiler or whatever they call it. The hole is where a knock pin goes, so it's basically countersunk....can't get that tool in there. These can be wound in by hand? Is that what you guys are saying? I wanted to try it but once it's drilled, there's no turning back. You weren't able to install the heli-coil without removing the head, were you?

I don't use the drill bit. The hole is large enough. Getting the tap past the insert (pin) is a problem. On my triple clamp I had to drill where the non threaded part is slightly to get the tap in there and the coil. It was tricky and I munged up one but I did it. Yes you can just use a ling small screw driver going back and forth little by little until set. Try not to bust the little tang off.
Steve