TOPIC:

Thanks man, glad u like it. I'm trying to cover the project pretty well. Glad to hear someone is liking it.

check the amount of views nelson.

ALOT of people like your build thread man !

i do to .

leon

OK here's an update for my legions of fans, eh Leon?

I finally checked the squish with engine assembled with all the new parts. Got between .068" and .073" on all 4. Not what I was hoping for. I decided to fire off an email to Wiseco and see if they can give me some good news before I decide to take the engine apart again.

I used this for checking. Solder was too thin so I made a ball on the end. Worked fine, but I won't recommend it. On the last cylinder it got stuck I utrned over the motor a few times, but still stuck. I figured pulling on it was the only thing to do and I got lucky and it came out, but it could easily have broken the ball off inside.

Sooo while I wait for info from Wiseco I worked on some other stuff. Forks! I rode the bike with the ZRX shocks for a year or so. I determined the front was too soft to match the rear. The manual calls for 15w oil, 17.4" from top. So I raised the level to 16" and installed a washer-bolt-washer in each leg to act as a preload spacer. This should give me a bit of firming up.




I made this fork tube clamp years ago and it has been super useful. It works on everything from skinny KZ tubes to beefy KTM sliders.




Done!

I pulled the frame out of deep storage! and started assembling some of the purty parts.





What's up here? The seal is not sealing!!This is an All balls kit from Z1. Anyone else have this problem? Yes the race is tapped all the way in.

oooooh! ahhhhh!

I don't like the foldy tab things much. Thought about leaving them out and buying some locking nuts instead. But... as you all know I'm trying to save bucks on this build, so I decided to polish everything up and use it. Also - this way I got something DONE instead of creating another delay.

Before disassembly I noticed the sprocket teeth were mostly black from chain grease. So I painted the sprocket black in hopes it will sort of "match" the teeth as soon as the paint wears off the teeth.

What thickness head and base gaskets are you using? What are you trying to find out from Wiseco to help your situation?

I told them the squish measurements I got and asked if they think it will run OK with that. Mark has been recommending .060"

the new, big bore cometic gasket is .053 uncompressed. It's labeled .043 so I imagine that is a compressed number. The base gasket is .020

I was thinking they made different thickness base gaskets in fiber but I couldn't find any. I know they do in copper base gaskets....which might be an idea to get the squish area tightened up a little. Copper bases gasket shouldn't be a problem since there isn't an oil leak problem there but I prefer paper myself if possible too. Could be an option though. Copper ones are made in .010 and .005 thickness so you could tighten it up. Maybe some of our experts will chimein on their idea of copper base gaskets for your build or know of a source for thinner paper gaskets.

Nelson wrote: I told them the squish measurements I got and asked if they think it will run OK with that. Mark has been recommending .060"

the new, big bore cometic gasket is .053 uncompressed. It's labeled .043 so I imagine that is a compressed number. The base gasket is .020

a .20" base gasket will compress to about 18" when using HD studs torqued to 42lbs. im not sure about stock studs, since they r known to stretch. i have never used stock studs.
u can buy copper or alumin base gaskets, in dif thickness's. thats what i use.
since u r on a budget, u may as well try it the way it is. if it pings u can change to a thinner base gasket. if it happens to leak, u can add the HD studs while u r at it. the Cometic head and base gaskets r the best for sealing leaks though. There r always trade-offs.

Nelson,

That seal goes below the lower stearing head bearing.

I tried that. The OD is too small. There were 2 seals in the kit. The big one fit on the bottom, the smaller one is the right diameter for the top, but doesnt reach far enough down - as you can see.