TOPIC:

Hi All
Just a quick note by way of introduction
I have just purchased the bike I wanted in my youth but did not have the money .....
A GPZ1100 A1 to go with my ZRX1200R
It s all there and driving but not sure about the DFI as this part is new to me
It's difficult to get to idle steady and when driving and I close the trottle the revs drop very slowly !
Are these symptoms normal ?
I do not believe there is anyone in Ireland with the knowledge of these old systems ?
I have been reading on adjusting the TPS to help with the idle and to clean up the lean bottom end revs
Not sure about the adjustable fuel regulator and how this would assist
Have replaced the fuel filter and the return valve in the tank does not leak when I take the fuel line off so assume it works !
Could do with a lesson in DFI and how to get it right as I want to keep it 100% original
Quincey

Welcome, pics?
Steve

These are my Kawasakis
The gpz will be getting a paint job and decals over the winter
Still in the dark on the fuel injection

I would start by looking for vacuum leaks. Sticky butterfly valves would be my next suspect.

I'm sure you'll be an expert before you know it. Whether you want to be or not.

Hi
I have fitted all new fuel lines including making a line from the fuel filter to thr pump and all clips are tight
Throttle bodies have been balanced
New spark plugs and air filter

All I have left is possible regulator or return valve
If replacing regulator any suggestions?
What about injectors needing work ibalancing / cleaning ?

Read on the forum a guy that the bike on start up sounded like running on 3 then 4
Mine has similar start up until I Rev it a bit then sound perfect however hunts and will not hold a steady idle
It has me baffled

A vacuum leak can be anywhere between the throttle body and the head. Start it up and then spray carburetor cleaner around the intake boots. If your revs drop or it stalls you have a leak.

The FSM gives diagnostics for testing all components of the DFI system except the ECU.

The later zx DFI is more developed then the earlier analogue open loop system. Most now are running on BS34 CV carbs but I'd keep the fuel injection if you can.

Interconnecting wiring check and vac leaks I'd check for first, followed by a sensor check as detailed in the manual. Be careful of any testing with ignition 'on' as it can fry the ECU brain