Putting a "duckbill" tail section and Z1 seat on a 81 Kz1000K1 LTD

SWest wrote: The frame may be too wide. If the bill is ABS you can use ABS glue and fiberglass to widen it. I've been using it on my boxes and it works great. The resin/fiberglass was peeling off.
Steve

The question then becomes exactly what is the width of the 1980 Kz1000 frame at the shock mounts and tail section?

The cutting and widening of an abs tail section complicates this modification considerably. I was thinking more along the lines of some mounting tabs and slightly modified off the shelf or used parts.

The more this is discussed, the more I like my original tail section.

I put a tape measure across the frame last nite and snapped a few pics under the seat. The frame rails are ~9.5" in front of the rear shocks, and tapers to the rear. It is ~9 3/8" wide just behind the shocks using the tape measure and eyeball method.

The pics look to be totally different measurements than I actually observed.

9 1/2" in front of the shocks. 9 3/8" behind shocks.




BTW< this is POR-15 paint on the frame. The world worst frame / motorcycle paint known to man IMHO. I tried brushing it, I tried spraying it, nothing produced nice looking frame paint. As someone else mentioned in another thread, it turns white without a top-coat. Mine is turning gray as seen in the pics. (It needs to be blasted off and redone. I will do that when I get another bike I can get my therapy on while it is being redone.)

Looks like a Z1/KZ tail might fit.
Steve

I figured it might be close. I need to pick up a few parts and brainstorm this mod. I tend to think Kawasaki might not have made that many retooling changes from 1980 to 1981, but not sure yet. I think my LTD was assembled in Lincoln Nebraska so they may have retooled everything.

What are the measurements on the seat hinges? Although not as critical, it does need to still open.

You probably already know this Steve, those scotch lock connectors are a quick fix, but not the most dependable method to splice wires.

'81 was a major update...at least for the engine. Probably for the frame as well. From '73 to '80 pretty much everything can be swapped, although from '77 onwards there was a bracket for the rear brake MC.

Distance between the hinges on a Z1 or KZ up to '80 is 24 cm.

hardrockminer wrote: '81 was a major update...at least for the engine. Probably for the frame as well. From '73 to '80 pretty much everything can be swapped, although from '77 onwards there was a bracket for the rear brake MC.

Distance between the hinges on a Z1 or KZ up to '80 is 24 cm.

You are correct! They went to the J motor, with 998 cc's rather than 1015cc from 80 to 81. They made a LOT of tooling changes.to satisfy new laws such as the 85 mph speedo from 80 to 81 too. I didn't quite think that statement all the way through earlier. lol

I'll need to measure the seat hinges later.

Hey,

I think this is easier than you might think. A friend has a Z1E plastic repro duckbill on his 81 GPz1100 frame and I remember him saying it was an easy mod combined with a handmade seat pan. He didn't cut the plastic at all. I don't remember how the 77 -80 z1000 tail mounts to the frame, but the z650 77-79 has 4 nicely thought out mounting holes that would be easy to use by welding mounting tabs on a modified 81-83 KZ1000LTD / CSR frame, I think. Next time I see the 81 GPz I'll have a better look and report back here...

old_kaw wrote: I have enough fiberglass experience to know that I am not good at it. Good enough to be dangerous. lol I do not have the proper heated work area to tackle much paint / bodywork. (winter is setting in soon.) I did some extensive fiberglass work on a boat many moons ago, and the chemicals / matting is more expensive than purchasing a $75.00 repro ABS duckbill and OEM type fender IMO. That, and the possibility of any fiberglass cuts cracking open again after I have an expensive paint work applied.
It seems there are no longer any local body shop supply houses in my area.

BTW, That is NOT me in the pic. He's probably about 5-6 painters in the past at my buddy's paint shop.

I have been wanting to do a little nicer paint job than it has now. This paint was done in 2015, but was just a basic job with no pin-striping or graphics.

The paint job looks pretty good IMO. Wait, I might be fixated on the paint jobs I see on the left of old_kaw's posts ....The paint on your bike looks pretty good, too.......

Thanks KrayZ. The paint is still pretty nice, I lost the right side cover 2 years ago, and replacing it with a Z1E repro and paint was almost $200.00 total (the part was $50 bucks) It was originally supposed to be the original red paint, except Jeff, the painter painted it black, then added some cherry kandy tint to the clear coat.. Then when I lost the right side cover, the new painter put in a little more red wild cherry kandy into the clear coat.. Soooo the tank does not match the rt side cover. I wanted red, and I got black, unless it's in direct sunlight
I need to get some parts and start start making this work. Perhaps some pin-striping or graphics on the existing paint and side covers? It's not the polished up beauty that some have on here, like daveo's chromed up Kz1100 beauty, but it starts and runs every time. Not just run.. runs like a caged animal. that just escaped from the zoo.. or is that me? lol

Old_kaw,

I've never tried tinting the clear, but I have seen it done before. It would make matching the paint much more difficult.

Just a suggestion if you are looking for paint ideas; I have long been an admirer of many 80's and 90's "classic" Harley paint schemes, particularly the "old" two tone color pairs (candy metallic medium blue and silver with red or light blue pin-stripes, for example) and understated medium width single and double line pin-striping. I often look at photos online of those older "factory built chopper" Harleys to get ideas for simple but effective custom paint....

I liked my stock 1000J engines. My CSR ran within a quarter second and 5 mph of my GPz1100 Uni-Trak, even though the GPz pulls a 20 mph higher top speed...on the street in city traffic, the CSR felt just as fast if not faster than the GPz.

What seat did you use on this bike?

Ref the duckbill on a 1982 Ltd, I have just this weekend modified my fibreglass replica for this purpose. Generally it fits but is just a little too tight over the corners of the rear frame hoop. You can force it on but the combination of tension and vibration would likely make it crack. I didn't want to widen the front so I pie cut it with a couple of relief cuts to stop the front pinching when I opened it up. Around 3mm of clearance on the frame corners is about 25mm at the back edge