A Rust-Littered Fuel Tank

So, I've been working on my KZ750m CSR for many moons now. Arizona summer heat has gone the way of ol' yeller for now, so I've been able to do paint work and stuff. While color sanding my tank, i noticed that the tank is pretty orange in there. I've looked up how to go about cleaning it and well...apparently acid cleaning is the most popular. There are claims that "this" works, and "that" doesn't, and vice-versa, and I'm assuming that they all work, if done correctly. Didn't need anyone to tell me that neutralizing acid is extremely necessary lol...

So, could someone shoot me some recommendations? Also, I'm not even sure if i posted this in the right place.

Home Depot sells this stuff. It's phosphoric acid. The same stuff the professionals use to derust metal before painting. You should remove the petcock, fuel sending unit or sensor, and fuel cap, and fashion some good plugs. Dump in the gallon and then swish it around in your tank every few mins or so to keep the surface wet. Alternate method, actually a better method, is to dilute the stuff with water by filling your tank with water to the top after dumping in the sauce. Derusting will take anywere from one hour to 12 depending on how bad the cancer has set in. You can recycle the stuff and use it again and again. And being phosphoric acid there is no need to neutralize it, just rinse well with water. To avoid flash rust you will want to have a bottle of isopropyl alcohol and WD=40 ready to help dry out the tank. You may still get a little coloring on the metal but it should be minimal.

It's not the cheapest option, but I highly recommend Evapor-rust. I've used it on 3 tanks so far
www.evaporust.com/evapo-rust-rust-remover
They carry it at Harbor Freight and with the 20% coupon it's under $25.00 for a gallon. You don't need to shake or agitate the tank. Just pour it in and leave it sit over night. You'll have to rotate the tank to several positions using a single gallon. It will not harm your paint and there is no disposal hazards. My concern with the various acids is they also remove some of the galvanizing or zinc plating left in the tank. The bare metal is now more prone to rust in the future.

Just did one using Vinegar...left it in about 10 days...(probably would not have required NEAR that long, but extra tank, so I was not "pressed") came out great!

Google "electrolytic rust removal". No acid needed, only washing soda. Washing soda is different than than baking soda. DO NOT use baking soda for electrolysis; it is caustic. Baking soda can be transformed into washing soda by ummm, baking it in a oven at 400 deg. F. for 30 min. We've used washing soda electrolysis in gas tanks and on rusty parts. Wont harm paint, and the waste solution can be used as lawn/garden fertilizer. Do electrolysis in a well-ventilated area or outside, as hydrogen gas is generated. We'll post a pic of our 5 gal. electrolysis tank shortly.

Here's a typical link. The nitty-gritty starts about 1/3rd down the page:
www.oldengine.org/members/orrin/rustdemo.htm

Typical link on how to transform baking soda to washing soda:
www.drkarenslee.com/make-your-own-homemade-washing-soda/


Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE

Im busy with mine at the minute
www.kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/594313...ild?start=440#745017 (somewhere on this page)
Im going to give it another week,should be enough.Have a look then and see what you think.

In any event you should use a couple of these.
Steve

Nessism wrote: Home Depot sells this stuff. It's phosphoric acid. The same stuff the professionals use to derust metal before painting. You should remove the petcock, fuel sending unit or sensor, and fuel cap, and fashion some good plugs. Dump in the gallon and then swish it around in your tank every few mins or so to keep the surface wet. Alternate method, actually a better method, is to dilute the stuff with water by filling your tank with water to the top after dumping in the sauce. Derusting will take anywere from one hour to 12 depending on how bad the cancer has set in. You can recycle the stuff and use it again and again. And being phosphoric acid there is no need to neutralize it, just rinse well with water. To avoid flash rust you will want to have a bottle of isopropyl alcohol and WD=40 ready to help dry out the tank. You may still get a little coloring on the metal but it should be minimal.

Thank you for the reply. If I use any acid, it'll be that one.

MDZ1rider wrote: It's not the cheapest option, but I highly recommend Evapor-rust. I've used it on 3 tanks so far
www.evaporust.com/evapo-rust-rust-remover
They carry it at Harbor Freight and with the 20% coupon it's under $25.00 for a gallon. You don't need to shake or agitate the tank. Just pour it in and leave it sit over night. You'll have to rotate the tank to several positions using a single gallon. It will not harm your paint and there is no disposal hazards. My concern with the various acids is they also remove some of the galvanizing or zinc plating left in the tank. The bare metal is now more prone to rust in the future.

Considering I live in an apartment, and my work space is limited to my shaded patio, that seems like a very solid solution. No chance of me *accidently* spilling a caustic solution on my neighbors downstairs...

...

Grumpy Ole Artist wrote: Just did one using Vinegar...left it in about 10 days...(probably would not have required NEAR that long, but extra tank, so I was not "pressed") came out great!

I have used white vinegar in the past for small parts and such, and the only issue I have with it is that it is 95% water. The flash rust can be rediculous.

slmjim+Z1BEBE wrote: Google "electrolytic rust removal". No acid needed, only washing soda. Washing soda is different than than baking soda. DO NOT use baking soda for electrolysis; it is caustic. Baking soda can be transformed into washing soda by ummm, baking it in a oven at 400 deg. F. for 30 min. We've used washing soda electrolysis in gas tanks and on rusty parts. Wont harm paint, and the waste solution can be used as lawn/garden fertilizer. Do electrolysis in a well-ventilated area or outside, as hydrogen gas is generated. We'll post a pic of our 5 gal. electrolysis tank shortly.

Here's a typical link. The nitty-gritty starts about 1/3rd down the page:
www.oldengine.org/members/orrin/rustdemo.htm

Typical link on how to transform baking soda to washing soda:
www.drkarenslee.com/make-your-own-homemade-washing-soda/


Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE

Thanks for replying. I actually really enjoyed that read, and if anything else, I now know how to produce chlorine gas haha. Unfortunately I don't have a battery charger right now (although I could simply substitute it for something around 6-12 volts).

davido wrote: Im busy with mine at the minute
www.kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/594313...ild?start=440#745017 (somewhere on this page)
Im going to give it another week,should be enough.Have a look then and see what you think.

Noticed it was on like page 20. Ima actually start from page 1, and maybe learn something