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Jack Placement
- Mando22
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18 Nov 2024 20:07 - 18 Nov 2024 20:07 #906225
by Mando22
Jack Placement was created by Mando22
Good evening. I got a 1982 KZ1100 Shaft to restore a couple of months ago. It is my first project, so maybe I was a little too ambitious. I've done what I can so far on its side stands, but I need to replace the oil pump, and the manual says that, in order to do that, it has to be on its center stand.I tried to get it on its center stand, but I had no luck. The tires are flat, the center stand itself is very rusty, and the spring doesn’t seem to be in good condition. I got a jack like the one in the picture; however, I’m not entirely sure where to place it. There seems to be a somewhat flat surface on the bottom, but I’m not sure if this is part of the exhaust system and whether I can place the bike’s entire weight on it.Any tips on the correct placement and how to get it aligned would be very helpful.
Last edit: 18 Nov 2024 20:07 by Mando22.
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- Wookie58
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19 Nov 2024 00:22 #906232
by Wookie58
Replied by Wookie58 on topic Jack Placement
OK, it's great that you have joined the fold but I think given your lack of knowledge there are a few things I would suggest -
Firstly - spend some time studying the workshop manual so that you can identify what the different components are (what is and isn't part of the exhaust etc)
When you say the stand is very rusty, does that mean it is rotten (the structural integrity is compromised) if not I would suggest getting it working correctly should be the first job (with a flat tyre you may need a friend to assist getting the bike on it) the spring only holds the stand up when not in use so won't effect it's operation in holding the bike.
Using the jack you have would be best with a couple of blocks of wood so you are lifting on the frame rails however, if you are doing the oil pump you need to remove the bottom of the engine so the jack will likely be in the way. If the main stand is no good you might be better with a "paddock stand"
Whichever route you choose the bike needs to be secure (this is big bike and having it fall while you are lying under it would not be good)
Why do you want to replace the oil pump (this is not a common failure) how have you diagnosed it ?
Firstly - spend some time studying the workshop manual so that you can identify what the different components are (what is and isn't part of the exhaust etc)
When you say the stand is very rusty, does that mean it is rotten (the structural integrity is compromised) if not I would suggest getting it working correctly should be the first job (with a flat tyre you may need a friend to assist getting the bike on it) the spring only holds the stand up when not in use so won't effect it's operation in holding the bike.
Using the jack you have would be best with a couple of blocks of wood so you are lifting on the frame rails however, if you are doing the oil pump you need to remove the bottom of the engine so the jack will likely be in the way. If the main stand is no good you might be better with a "paddock stand"
Whichever route you choose the bike needs to be secure (this is big bike and having it fall while you are lying under it would not be good)
Why do you want to replace the oil pump (this is not a common failure) how have you diagnosed it ?
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- Buzz Nichols
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19 Nov 2024 02:26 #906234
by Buzz Nichols
Is this thing working? Is this thing on?
1978 KZ1000 LTD
Replied by Buzz Nichols on topic Jack Placement
Welcome.
First off: does the center stand move if you plant your foot on it? If not, soak down the pivot points with penetrating fluid (WD40, PB/Laster, or whatever) and let it soak for about 24 hours—which, as Wookie wisely suggested, will provide a good window of time for you to familiar yourself with the shop manual (NOT the Chilton's manual) while you wait. then, try again.
At this point, forgive me if I'm being pedantic. I'm assuming you're more or less new to this stuff.
There's a trick of leverage and body dynamics for getting a bike onto its center stand. Stand to the left side of the bike (like you're going to mount a horse) and grab the handle bars, as far outward as you can while still getting a good grip. then, with your right foot, stand on the peg protruding from the left side of the center stand. Your left foot should be completely off the ground. While you put your full weight on the center stand, pull backward on the handlebars, applying equal pressure on both sides, straight toward the back of the bike. Don't try to pull up on the bars, just pull back. If you're a smaller person, this might go a lot easier the first couple of times if you've got somebody pulling backward with you.
When you're ready to take the bike off the center stand, just grab the bars and push the bike forward.
With all that said, do the stuff Wookie said. And don't talk yourself out of the idea that you can do this. Wookie is the first of many people you've met here who have forgotten more about these machines than I will ever know. It's a brave new world for doing stuff like this; you've got access to real experts from around the world, and as long as you're patient and polite, they're totally willing to help.
And finally: pictures! We might, on average, be pretty old here at KZR, but we have shortened attention spans and we need some eye candy! Let's see this machine.
First off: does the center stand move if you plant your foot on it? If not, soak down the pivot points with penetrating fluid (WD40, PB/Laster, or whatever) and let it soak for about 24 hours—which, as Wookie wisely suggested, will provide a good window of time for you to familiar yourself with the shop manual (NOT the Chilton's manual) while you wait. then, try again.
At this point, forgive me if I'm being pedantic. I'm assuming you're more or less new to this stuff.
There's a trick of leverage and body dynamics for getting a bike onto its center stand. Stand to the left side of the bike (like you're going to mount a horse) and grab the handle bars, as far outward as you can while still getting a good grip. then, with your right foot, stand on the peg protruding from the left side of the center stand. Your left foot should be completely off the ground. While you put your full weight on the center stand, pull backward on the handlebars, applying equal pressure on both sides, straight toward the back of the bike. Don't try to pull up on the bars, just pull back. If you're a smaller person, this might go a lot easier the first couple of times if you've got somebody pulling backward with you.
When you're ready to take the bike off the center stand, just grab the bars and push the bike forward.
With all that said, do the stuff Wookie said. And don't talk yourself out of the idea that you can do this. Wookie is the first of many people you've met here who have forgotten more about these machines than I will ever know. It's a brave new world for doing stuff like this; you've got access to real experts from around the world, and as long as you're patient and polite, they're totally willing to help.
And finally: pictures! We might, on average, be pretty old here at KZR, but we have shortened attention spans and we need some eye candy! Let's see this machine.
Is this thing working? Is this thing on?
1978 KZ1000 LTD
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- sf4t7
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19 Nov 2024 05:28 - 19 Nov 2024 05:34 #906235
by sf4t7
Scotty
1974 Z1A
1015
welded Z1 crank
Andrews 1X Cams
Delkevic 4 into 1
Superbike bars
530 conversion
Replied by sf4t7 on topic Jack Placement
Welcome to the best place for KZ info.
+1 on the advice from Wookie and Buzz. You should look up a post from Nessism titled "New owner things to know" for some great tips getting started.
Get yourself a Kawasaki factory service manual, it's the most complete source for working on your motorcycle (available on ebay or you can access it here on KZR).
There are plenty of members here willing to help you through the jams you may get into (I know from experience!) so don't get discouraged - enjoy reviving your KZ.
edit - And we love to see pictures!
+1 on the advice from Wookie and Buzz. You should look up a post from Nessism titled "New owner things to know" for some great tips getting started.
Get yourself a Kawasaki factory service manual, it's the most complete source for working on your motorcycle (available on ebay or you can access it here on KZR).
There are plenty of members here willing to help you through the jams you may get into (I know from experience!) so don't get discouraged - enjoy reviving your KZ.
edit - And we love to see pictures!
Scotty
1974 Z1A
1015
welded Z1 crank
Andrews 1X Cams
Delkevic 4 into 1
Superbike bars
530 conversion
Last edit: 19 Nov 2024 05:34 by sf4t7.
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19 Nov 2024 09:37 - 19 Nov 2024 09:38 #906238
by Scirocco
My 1975 Z 1 B 900 Project
www.kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/605133...ears-deep-sleep-mode
Replied by Scirocco on topic Jack Placement
My 1975 Z 1 B 900 Project
www.kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/605133...ears-deep-sleep-mode
Last edit: 19 Nov 2024 09:38 by Scirocco.
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19 Nov 2024 09:46 - 19 Nov 2024 09:47 #906239
by Wookie58
Replied by Wookie58 on topic Jack Placement
Definitely a better option than wood blocks but probably still wouldn't give the access to remove the oil pan ? (maybe) OP is looking to replace the oil pumpAmazon offers bike lifts with a set of adjustable adapter for the lower bike frame tubes.
Last edit: 19 Nov 2024 09:47 by Wookie58.
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- SWest
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19 Nov 2024 10:04 #906240
by SWest
Replied by SWest on topic Jack Placement
Center stand is the best for your use. Don't use the pipes to support the bike. I bought a HF lift and made my own adapters to support the frame.
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- gd4now
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19 Nov 2024 10:15 #906241
by gd4now
1977 KZ650 B1
Pods and Denco header
OLD KAW OWNERS SMILE ALOT
Replied by gd4now on topic Jack Placement
Agree oil pump replacement has been mentioned. Which does require pan removal. A center stand working as intended would be a good starting point. I might suggest if not done so as of yet, attempt to air up the tires as it may make using the center stand easier as the bike does sort or roll backwards on to the stand and flat tires do not roll well.
1977 KZ650 B1
Pods and Denco header
OLD KAW OWNERS SMILE ALOT
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19 Nov 2024 11:02 #906242
by Scirocco
My 1975 Z 1 B 900 Project
www.kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/605133...ears-deep-sleep-mode
Replied by Scirocco on topic Jack Placement
You can put the bike lift under the main stand frame mount to remove the oil pan.
The rear lift in the pic only support the swing arm high (no shock) to secure the wheel in/out for the wheel aligment messurments.
The front wheel stand keep the bike in a safe riding position without any additional jacks.
The rear lift in the pic only support the swing arm high (no shock) to secure the wheel in/out for the wheel aligment messurments.
The front wheel stand keep the bike in a safe riding position without any additional jacks.
My 1975 Z 1 B 900 Project
www.kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/605133...ears-deep-sleep-mode
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- slmjim+Z1BEBE
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20 Nov 2024 04:20 #906259
by slmjim+Z1BEBE
Another way to ease centerstand use is to place a spacer of some kind under the rear tire. Doesn't have to be fancy, a short piece of 2x4 or, two short lengths of 2x4 nailed together, or something of like thickness, under the rear tire will ease center stand use a great deal.
The rear shocks on Z1BEBE's Z1-B are 1/2" understock, and the rear wheel is a 16" Lester. Combined, those drop the chassis height enough to make the angle of the centerstand when it first touches the ground such that it's extremely difficult for one person to lift the bike onto the centerstand. Placing a spacer under the rear tire solves that.
Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE
A biker looks at your engine and chrome.
A Rider looks at your odometer and tags.
1973 ('72 builds) Z1 x2
1974 Z1-A x2
1975 Z1-B x2
1993 CB 750 Nighthawk x2
2009 ST1300A
www.kawasaki-z-classik.com
An enthusiast's forum focused exclusively
on all things Z1, Z2 and KZ900.
Replied by slmjim+Z1BEBE on topic Jack Placement
Agreed on inflating the tires to ease center stand deployment.Agree oil pump replacement has been mentioned. Which does require pan removal. A center stand working as intended would be a good starting point. I might suggest if not done so as of yet, attempt to air up the tires as it may make using the center stand easier as the bike does sort or roll backwards on to the stand and flat tires do not roll well.
Another way to ease centerstand use is to place a spacer of some kind under the rear tire. Doesn't have to be fancy, a short piece of 2x4 or, two short lengths of 2x4 nailed together, or something of like thickness, under the rear tire will ease center stand use a great deal.
The rear shocks on Z1BEBE's Z1-B are 1/2" understock, and the rear wheel is a 16" Lester. Combined, those drop the chassis height enough to make the angle of the centerstand when it first touches the ground such that it's extremely difficult for one person to lift the bike onto the centerstand. Placing a spacer under the rear tire solves that.
Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE
A biker looks at your engine and chrome.
A Rider looks at your odometer and tags.
1973 ('72 builds) Z1 x2
1974 Z1-A x2
1975 Z1-B x2
1993 CB 750 Nighthawk x2
2009 ST1300A
www.kawasaki-z-classik.com
An enthusiast's forum focused exclusively
on all things Z1, Z2 and KZ900.
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