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Rear brake pads
- johnny chop
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That's the problem,it's not sliding off:( Seems like something is holding on the bracket. Is it possible the pad has to be pryed out? Does the phillips head screw have to come out to get the inside pad out as well?:huh:I think the rear caliper is a single peice. Take out the two bolts that hold it to the bracket and it should just slide off.
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- johnny chop
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Forgot the camera today.......But there is a diagram now. I'll try to take a pic of what is going on & where it's getting stuck..wireman wrote:
I'll take a pic & post it ASAP......JCcan you post a picture of your caliper?
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- securitygeek
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if things seem stuck, you could try and remove the screw (#6), washer(#7), and #8, then try a large c-clamp on the inside brake pad (inside pad will not come out at this point) and the right side of the caliper, to squeeze the piston in. This might loosen things up a little (should be all you need).
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- johnny chop
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Sorry don't know how to load multiple pics,so I'll send another.JC
Post edited by: johnny chop, at: 2006/04/19 21:25
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- johnny chop
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- johnny chop
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- wireman
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- KZ_Rage
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- Kentucky Bourbon Barrel Ale
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I meant that the caliper should have fallen away from the bracket, not that the caliper itself would fall apart.
I assumed that you had already compressed the piston back into the caliper. What is holding it in place still is the piston from what I can see in the photo and possibly the backside pad as well.
Compress the piston back in to the caliper housing and then look behind for the backside pad's retaining screw #6. That screw might have to come out first as the spring washer #8 could hold enough pressure against the back pad to make it harder to move if the piston won't retract fully. Taking the backside one out first will give you more room to clear the bracket anyway.
The pads are small round disc's, if they are gone then your rotor is very likely scrap. Be sure to measure the thickness of the rotor. If there is bad gouges or if the measurement shows out of tolerance thickness then you'll have to replace it.
Take the time to completely bleed the ALL of the old brake fluid out of the system. To not make more work for you as you do this be sure to watch the reservoir and when you get down to the last 1/3-1/4 of fluid in the reservoir, tighten the bleed screw and add new brake fluid. Repeat this process until you see clean new fluid come out. If you let the level drop below the bottom of the reservoir you stand a chance of getting an air bubble in the caliper.
Post edited by: KZ_Rage, at: 2006/04/20 09:56
1979 KZ1000E1 SOLD!
1984 KZ550F2 SOLD!
2006 ZG1000A6F (Totaled)
2001 ZRX1200R (Sold)
2001 Sprint 955i ST (daily rider)
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- mariozappa
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Unless I'm missing something, you should be able to undo you rear axle and pull it part way through until the caliper arm comes loose. It will come off with the caliper, even with the 2 bolts out.
Then it will be much easier to change the pads.
1977 KZ650C1
and the KZ650/KZ750 Conversion
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- KZ_Rage
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1979 KZ1000E1 SOLD!
1984 KZ550F2 SOLD!
2006 ZG1000A6F (Totaled)
2001 ZRX1200R (Sold)
2001 Sprint 955i ST (daily rider)
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- mariozappa
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I have found that the little rubber dust boots, # 4 in the parts diagram, are a PITA to keep on when sliding the caliper arm back in.
I left mine off...in fustration!
1977 KZ650C1
and the KZ650/KZ750 Conversion
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- johnny chop
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No I didn't have a c-clamp with me at the time. Unfortunatley the bike is at a garage far from my home (no room in my garage) LOL.. so after work (late @ night)I go & work on it.did you push the piston back in?:whistle:
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