Very frustrated now bike runs bad again

Scirocco wrote:

Your picup plate need extended slots or the right rotor.
Your ignition tiiming @ idle approximately 10 degrees delayed.

 

I don't think you need to extend the slots, the rotor isn't pegged so you can loosen the 13mm and adjust it

I read the instruction manual and it is really confusing. Rotor has no slots and can rotate in any position, (it´s okay).
But why the hell they couldn´t made two locating markings for TDC or F position only onto the rotor and the #1-4 picup (base plate)?

 
 

It really isn't written very well

Ok Rolf I have given this some thought and have a much easier solution if you don't mind spending a little money. The set up in the instructions is long winded and "how do you rotate the engine 320 degrees exactly" without a timing protractor set up on the crank

1. Firstly set the motor to TDC using the factory mark on the advancer
2. Set the new base plate in the slots as stated in the fitting instructions
3. Align the new rotor as per Scirocco's post ensuring the line through the magnets is the same as the line through the pick ups.
4. Use an adjustable timing light with 40 degrees dialled in, run the motor to 5000rpm then use the light and adjust the base plate until the factory TDC mark is aligned

That's it, job done 

 

Thank you guys for the help. Wookie that timing light and instructions is the way to go i think. Scirocco : i think you are in to something that i need to maybe file off a little on the slots.Warren : i watched the videos but i wish he had made a vid of using the timinglight .The timingplate in the video is not the same as i have i  and the box is red mine is blue. I think i  misunderstod the instructions making the scribed timingmarks.
I think it is supposed to make a white mark on the advancer unit .notb the marking on the case?  But not sure that helps because the scribed mark moves anticlockwise. If i had made a 40 degree mark on the right side of the timingplate oposite of the gold ingraved 40 degree mark that is on the left side of timingplate maybe i could time it with the mark in the casing. Anyway now im going for a ride and check some more how the bike runs.

 

Today i was planning to take a longer ride ,but after 15 minutes and  gave it some throttle  over 5000rpm  it started to stumble lost a lot of engine power and did small jerks like if it was riding over  small micro speedbumps on the road. After that it also misfired a little under 5000rpm .Then i just found the nearest place to stop and check .First checked sparkplugs and 1- 4 was very lean and 2-3 was quite rich.So i adjusted the mixture screws on 1-4 about 2-3minutes out and 2-3 adjusted in 2-3 minutes in. Then i decided to put the wiring to the coils back like they was before i changed them like they was connected on the z1000 yesterday.
I also adjusted the timingplate a little with no timinglight only about 1mm hoping it would fix how the bike was running.
After that it started easy and engine was smooth and good power.I  skipped the long ride plan and just rode the bike near my home in case of a total breakdown of a coil or somthing.I rode for about 45 minutes and had no more trouble except one time after filling gas and the engine kicked back badly when started. I now know how to avoid the bad kickback that happens when engine is hot and restarted after only a few minutes. To avoid engine kick back is to not twist the throttle while pushing startbutton.I forgot that at the gas station .I only pushed the bike up to 5000rpm and it did run very good after the "fix".
So now i wonder what will happen when trying to go over 5000rpm again.If it starts to missfire and lose power then what is wrong ? is it to advaced or to retarded?  and is this a sign that the boyer ignition module not working at all ?? The module fires all 4 plugs at same time maybe that is why it is so easy to get engine kickback at hot starting?

 

Do you have airscrew or fuel screw?
Airscrew is out to lean and in to to richen. Fuel screws are the opposite. 

Fuel screws i got vm26 from kz1000

What a mess just discovered that the way i connected the wiring at the coils is still wrong.The red wire from battery should be placed at the +connector on the coil when looking at the picture it is connected to a - connector   same is for the green wire from the pickup coil that is connected to a +positve connector at the coil. How did i manage that????

 it's all progress Rolf, kudos for your honesty

The fuel screws would not cause a lean condition nor a rich condition above 5,000 rpm.  They are intended to control fuel for approximately the first 1/4 throttle.  After 1/4 throttle the main fuel source should be your main jets, especially above 5,000 rpm.  I wonder if you have all your jet needles set at the same height?  Same question for your bowl floats.

The 1975 (Z1B) 900 engine ignition timing from the factory specification was 20 deg before TDC at 900 rpm (The "F" mark) and 40 deg at 2,350 rpm.  I'm puzzled by why your ignition does not fully advance until 5,000 rpm.  This makes me wonder if some of your problems are caused by not enough advance until you reach 5,000 rpm. 

It also seems to me that you are changing too many variables at the same time, and this can result in not knowing if you corrected anything.  Just a suggestion, but maybe leave the carburetors alone until you get your timing corrected.   Having said that, I wonder if the backfiring when you start a hot engine is caused by excess fuel in the exhaust?

 

Yes i know about the fuel screws does not have any inpact when engine is over 3000 rpm when the main jet kicks in.but i think that since plug 2-3 was fouled that can have contributed to bad or no spark on 2-3 making the bike jerk since syl 2-3 is working together in the stroke.
Before the engine started to go run bad again i had used very many small adjustments to the mixturescrews to get the best possible running engine. I finaly got the plugs to look nice and the bike ran good for about a week before it suddely started misfire ang jerking and all plugs got badly sotted.Then i replaced the dyna-s because i was thinking that a picupcoil had gone bad when a coil melted back in september
But now i just discovered that i never had the wiring to the new boyer coils mounted the right way.
The boyer instructions is confusing because of the drawing on how to connect  the wiring to the coils ,but i see now that it must be wrong because it is stamped + and - at the connectors on the coils.Now i have the red positive wire from battery connected to the - on the coils and the green wire connected to + that should be connected to a -. Not sure how i managed that mistake but did se the + and - markings on the coils now . About the hot starts it is backfiring into carbs and makes a loud mechanical noise and feels like the starter engine blows up like the engine tries to run backward
update:
Now i have just read a very good pdf about different type of motorcycle ignitions at dansmc.com it says copyrighted so im not sure i can post the link.anyway  it says what i was afraid of that it is possible to fry/damage the electronic ignition if testing for spark and not properly grounding the sparkplugs .That is one thing i did with the dyna-s last year and silly enough i have done that with the boyer to so maybe i have riuned it haha