Valve Clearance

I finally got a chance to check the valve clearance on my kz650E1.
All the measurements were right on the top or right at the bottom of the tolerance. I used the cable tie method to check the shim number and there does not seem to be a shim above the valve. It seems to be just the basket that lifts up but cant get it out unless i remove the camshaft. I was hoping to get the tolerances right without removing the camshafts. What am i doing wrong as you would think it must have shims for adjusting the gaps.

The 650 has the shims under the buckets so you need to remove the cams and buckets to change them..

As Zed mentioned the shims are under the buckets. Hopefully you didn’t dislodge the shim when lifting the bucket. With that said the procedure is to go through the entire valve train and note all clearances in MM, not just if they are in range. Once you have current clearances you can calculate the size of the replacement shims needed. Then as mentioned the cams are removed. Buckets lifted on offending valves, shims replaced, reset cams an check your work. 

Thanks for the advice. Is removing the cams as daunting job as it sounds or is it just get on and do it. Any advice on removing the chams.

Removing the cams is a real hassle, in my opinion.  Before doing so, I'd put the engine at 1-4 TDC, and pull the cap and spring from the cam chain tensioner.

You also may want to use a paint stick, to put reference lines on both the cam sprockets and the chain.  For this method to be effective, you must be careful to hold up on the cam chain, so it doesn't jump teeth on the crankshaft sprocket.

Make sure you follow the FSM for the correct loosening and tightening sequence of the cam cap bolts to minimise the risk of causing damage

I have worked on 650's a lot and have found doing one side at a time is the way to go - don't unbolt both sides at the same time. This method is much faster and you don't have to worry about being a tooth out afterwards.

Measure and mark down the clearance on both sides before unbolting anything.

Take the top idler off then unbolt one cam moving it into the center where the idler would be without taking the cam chain off the sprocket.
Usually the cam will just sit in the center but you could jam a screwdriver down into the center tunnel behind it if you think its going to move.
Once you swap out the shims drag the cam back to where it bolts down and tighten up the cam caps.
Repeat for the other side.



Once you do this a dozen times or so it becomes real easy.
 

Injected wrote:

I have worked on 650's a lot and have found doing one said at a time is the way to go - don't unbolt both sides at the same time. This method is much faster and you don't have to worry about being a tooth out afterwards.

Measure and mark down the clearance on both sides before unbolting anything.

Take the top idler off then unbolt one cam moving it into the center where the idler would be without taking the cam chain off the sprocket.
Usually the cam will just sit in the center but you could jam a screwdriver down into the center tunnel behind it if you think its going to move.
Once you swap out the shims drag the cam back to where it bolts down and tighten up the cam caps.
Repeat for the other side.

Once you do this a dozen times or so it becomes real easy.

 

My preferred method also. 

I have measured each one in mm 3 times and written down the exact gap on each.
The only manual i have is the Clymer which does not give a sequence for loosening and tightening that i can find.
Very good advice doing one at a time. Feel a bit more confident taking this on now. 

Deon wrote:

I have measured each one in mm 3 times and written down the exact gap on each.
The only manual i have is the Clymer which does not give a sequence for loosening and tightening that i can find.
Very good advice doing one at a time. Feel a bit more confident taking this on now. 

The FSM is in the "articles" section of the forum 

Even though that manual does not cover the E model, the camshaft cap bolt information is the same. It is in page 6-24. Be certain to note that the tightening force is listed in INCH-pounds, not foot-pounds. If your wrench measures kg-m, then you may happily ignore that warning.