tricky clutch, needs work? fuel issue?

Yes, you guys are right.  The A1 had air screws.  The A2 had pilot fuel screws.

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Both good ideas from Wookie and Dr Gamma. Even if your clutch release is OK it's worth taking it off for a clean, greasing, and reassembly.

The next thing I'd recommend checking is your clutch actuator rod (the rod pressed by the clutch release under the sprocket cover). These can wear where they rub the housing, and can develop grooves which can catch on the housing and can suddenly release as you let out the lever, and it will feel like you've dropped the clutch. Pull the rod out and inspect it - if it's bent replace it, if it's got grooves you can just turn it around and put it back in the other way, that way the housing will be rubbing where the rod isn't worn.

 

Will pulling the rod out allow the single ball bearing [on the clutch end of the rod] to move out of place? Part #19 here: www.partzilla.com/catalog/kawasaki/motor...utch-77-78-a1-a2-a2a

Or will the ball bearing stay in place if the bike is vertical? Seems like it should but would like to confirm.

The 440A engine I'm working on had a similar cam-type clutch actuator but it was missing when I got the engine - had to go to three different ebay sellers to get the cable, the cam actuator assembly, and the sprocket cover itself (but was happy to be able to get everything). I'd like to replace the pushrod as well but didn't want to lose my bearing. Hmm - actually at this point I should be able to tip the engine over to the right and remove the pushrod that way
 

All I can say is I've done it with multiple bikes, but TBH I can't find any diagram for a KZ1000, and generally speaking I'd only trust advice on the internet backed up with proof. The rod is smaller (8mm) than the ball (9.5mm), and diagrams for a KZ550 show the step preventing the ball from rolling inside:


It's my understanding that all KZs that use the ball have this step and the ball can only be inserted and removed from the clutch side - but like I said I have no proof for this engine, so it would be safest to tilt the bike to the clutch side to be sure, unless someone else can chime in with proof.

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All I can say is I've done it with multiple bikes, but TBH I can't find any diagram for a KZ1000, and generally speaking I'd only trust advice on the internet backed up with proof. The rod is smaller (8mm) than the ball (9.5mm), and diagrams for a KZ550 show the step preventing the ball from rolling inside:

It's my understanding that all KZs that use the ball have this step and the ball can only be inserted and removed from the clutch side - but like I said I have no proof for this engine, so it would be safest to tilt the bike to the clutch side to be sure, unless someone else can chime in with proof.

Thank you for that - I appreciate the info and it got my brain working finally. For some reason I was picturing the ball bearing and the pushrod being the same diameter, but I read (on Partzilla, I think) that the ball bearing in the 440 is 3/8". I haven't measured the pushrod but it might be closer to .25"/6-7mm. OTOH it would have been a pretty poor design to make them the same size and potentially let the bearing escape.

Right now the engine is not in the frame so I can do whatever with it. The plan is to pull the existing and corroded pushrod, replace the oil seal, and then install the much better used pushrod that's on the way. Thanks again!

I had a Z1R with a similar problem. I got it cheap as the seller admitted there was a problem with the clutch. My neighbour who was a fitter at the local pit suggested taking the actuating rod out and seeing if it was blued at the end.  We did and it was.There was no ball bearing . He found one that fit in his workshop and it worked fine after that.

I made a promise (a year ago) that I'd report back, so I just want to follow through with that.  Shot story is that the clutch situation is resolved and working great!  What was it?  I can't say for sure because in the spirit of being thorough + cleaning anything you can + learning... I went through everything from the clutch handle to where you need to stop without pulling out the engine and splitting it open.  Probably the fix was either replacing the cable or really cleaning and lubing the clutch release mechanism.  Here are some pics and notes of what I remember:

It was pretty messy inside when I started.
   

And I found the aluminum strip I had used to set the idle screws!
 

Piece of transmission cover broken from some previous chain failure?
 

This is the perfect application for JB Weld!
 

And old gasoline!
 

Testing clutch spring stiffness...
 

Or if you have access to a tensile tester...
 

It took me a long time to find this ball bearing...
 

Always take good notes!
 

And here it's getting put back together and ready to go.
 

As the question came up in earlier posts, keeping track of the ball bearing at the end of the pushrod was not an issue.  Also, this model had the newer/nice clutch release mechanism.  Cheers!

^^ And have a great assistant! ^^