tricky clutch, needs work? fuel issue?

I have a 1987 KZ1000-A2, although it has A1 carbs.  It has 26k miles.  I've had it for 5 years, but much of that time it was not running.  It looked great when I got it, but needed some attention.  Spent some time not running.  Everything I do I'm learning for the first time, so it takes a while.  I got it running a year go after increasing the pilot jets and replacing the ignition coils.  I've ridden it for 320 miles since then.

It is really hard to let out the clutch on this motorcycle.  There is a thin margin between a jackrabbit start and a stall.  It's like I don't know how to work a clutch. (I have two other motorcycles and all I drive is stick cars, for 20+ years.)  I've never had to replace a clutch on anything I own, but this behavior is not what I normally associate with clutch failure.  I honestly even tried practicing in my driveway, but in the end I feel like the motorcycle does not react in a consistent way to my use of the clutch and throttle, and it's really hard to ride the clutch (if I try) because the engagement travel distance on the clutch lever is really short.

Is this an issue that servicing the clutch can help with?  I wonder also about fuel coming off idle hitting a lean spot because the jetting may not be matched right.  It does rev and come down fine unloaded (stationary in neutral).  It did stall coming to a stop once on a recent ride.

Work I did since owing it that I can remember: oil change (blackest stuff I ever saw, should probably change again, was thinking at 500 miles), adjusted valve clearance, cleaned and synced carbs (many times) replaces throttle cable, adjusted all carb and throttle specs, exhaust gaskets, tensioned cam chain, new battery, went over all electrical, bunch of other little things.  Thanks!

There are many on here that know these bikes far better than me but in the first instance I would suggest lubing  the cable and check that it is routed correctly so there are no tight radius turns

Besides checking the routing of the clutch cable. Look and see if it has come in contact with the exhaust pipes where the cable comes up the frame tube. If it is melted in that area replace the cable. It is a common problem when people put lower bars on the Kz1000 A model. Make sure cable is well lubed. The other problem area is the clutch release located in the sprocket cover. Make sure there are not any cracks in the outer clutch release white plastic piece. And not packed with gobs of dirt and old chain lube!!! Also that release should be packed with grease and should rotate freely when turned by hand. Is the clutch adjusted correctly?? Most Kawasaki bikes like to have a bit of free play at the clutch lever. Without any free play at the lever it makes the release point very narrow and not progressive.

The later model clutch release (1979~1981) is a far better quality clutch release than that white plastic thing. It is very common to upgrade to that later model clutch release.

Here is a picture of the late model Kz1000 clutch release. Best release Kawasaki ever put in their 4 cylinder bikes!!!! Drops right into your cover too!!!

 

Both good ideas from Wookie and Dr Gamma. Even if your clutch release is OK it's worth taking it off for a clean, greasing, and reassembly.

The next thing I'd recommend checking is your clutch actuator rod (the rod pressed by the clutch release under the sprocket cover). These can wear where they rub the housing, and can develop grooves which can catch on the housing and can suddenly release as you let out the lever, and it will feel like you've dropped the clutch. Pull the rod out and inspect it - if it's bent replace it, if it's got grooves you can just turn it around and put it back in the other way, that way the housing will be rubbing where the rod isn't worn.

Ditch the cable and purchase a new one.  Then lube before install.  A new cable is a thing of beauty, far better than an old one that's lubed.  Oh, and get a OEM cable.  Not a motion pro or some other aftermarket cable.

Also, as mentioned, get a new style three ball ramp mechanism.  They are way better than the older release mechanism.  My 1981 750 had the better ramp mechanism, but a 1980 parts engine I bought  didn't.  I'd look for cheap later year sprocket cover and take the mechanism from it.  

Do you have a manual for the bike?  If not, you should download the one from this site.  There is a lot of information in there on how to properly set up the clutch release.

Just to be clear....you said the bike is a 1987 A2.  I suspect you meant a 1977 A2.  The A2 is from the 1978 model year.  What are the frame and engine S/N?

You said you have A1 carbs on the bike.  Do they have both the fuel/air screw on the side and a pilot fuel screw on the bottom?

Have you checked your clutch plates?  They can be accessed from the right side of the engine...the rear engine cover....the big one where you check your oil level.  You will have to drain the oil before removing the cover unless the bike is on the side stand.

Thanks for all the suggestions everyone.  I will work through these over the next few weeks or so.  My progress is never fast, but I will report back how it goes... eventually.

Yes, I have the manual, thanks.  Sorry for the typo, it's a 1978 A2.  The frame no. is KZT00A-030061.  The engine no. is KZT00AE 046957.  I forget exactly how I determined that the carbs, and maybe some other parts, are A1. There is not an air screw on the side, only a fuel screw on the bottom.  Jetting was consistent with A1 specs.

Thanks again! 

Good luck, help us satisfy an itch. Post some pictures please.

I believe A1 carbs had both pilot fuel and fuel/air screws.  Do your carbs have a pump on the bottom of #2 or #3 carb?

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I believe A1 carbs had both pilot fuel and fuel/air screws.  Do your carbs have a pump on the bottom of #2 or #3 carb?

In my experience on Suzuki Mikuni had both fuel and air pilots.

As I understand it Milkaw is correct.  I am not aware of any of the vm26ss carbs that came stock on 900/1000 kaws had both an air screw and a pilot screw, it was one or the other only. While the vm26ss carbs that came stock on the Suzuki GS models did come with both.

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Both good ideas from Wookie and Dr Gamma. Even if your clutch release is OK it's worth taking it off for a clean, greasing, and reassembly.

The next thing I'd recommend checking is your clutch actuator rod (the rod pressed by the clutch release under the sprocket cover). These can wear where they rub the housing, and can develop grooves which can catch on the housing and can suddenly release as you let out the lever, and it will feel like you've dropped the clutch. Pull the rod out and inspect it - if it's bent replace it, if it's got grooves you can just turn it around and put it back in the other way, that way the housing will be rubbing where the rod isn't worn.
 

Will pulling the rod out allow the single ball bearing [on the clutch end of the rod] to move out of place? Part #19 here: www.partzilla.com/catalog/kawasaki/motor...utch-77-78-a1-a2-a2a

Or will the ball bearing stay in place if the bike is vertical? Seems like it should but would like to confirm.

The 440A engine I'm working on had a similar cam-type clutch actuator but it was missing when I got the engine - had to go to three different ebay sellers to get the cable, the cam actuator assembly, and the sprocket cover itself (but was happy to be able to get everything). I'd like to replace the pushrod as well but didn't want to lose my bearing. Hmm - actually at this point I should be able to tip the engine over to the right and remove the pushrod that way.